LED Headlights opinions?

Yes that’s the issue is it’s bright all foreground and doesn’t have any distance through. Go into that posted thread and you’ll see all the led bulbs compared fall off at 42ft.

 

I agree to read this thread, then make your decision. The best bulbs for my truck plus adapters were about $35 off Amazon. I realized that after spending $140 on an HID kit too.

 

SEALIGHT H11/H8/H9 LED Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087G2TFGX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

these are thin enough to do a pretty good job in the projector housings. Just make sure they’re clocked correctly.

 

Best route if it’s truly an issue, is OEM LED upgrade. Crash says they’re the way to go. But that’s going to cost you more then 10 of those $100 bills. And likely a whole lotta honey-do’s from the sounds of it.

 

Hikari ultra H11 LED headlights in the low beams $90 or get the adapters and install the h9 high beam bulb in the low beam.

 

@crashnburn80 you ever seen one like this.

 

Those will be terrible as you quoted me earlier.

However what is also worse and not listed in that response, is they have incorporated the driver into the LED assembly. One of the things that limits LED output is heat, which is why many LEDs have fans and separate drivers. A standard way to help remove heat from the LED is make the driver separate, since the driver runs extremely hot as shown in this LED thermal image of the Tungsram LEDs below. The last thing you’d want to do is put the hottest component on the component you need to cool to maintain output. What that will do is cause the LEDs to be unable to cool adequately reducing their output.

 

Foreground light is extremely deceiving, many have this same belief that they are better but humans favor foreground light, not distance light. So your eyes perception of rating light quality is directly backward to how a headlight is supposed to work, limiting foreground light and extending distance light. I’ve had other members swear their LEDs were an upgrade, I bought them and tested them to prove a point they weren’t and even after seeing the data they were still were sure the LEDs were an upgrade due to the foreground light bias. It is extremely common.

 

The good news is I’m not out much.

 

Since I want new tires, I just plopped the Phillips H9s in the lowbeam slot and called it a day. Why go LED if you can get great output and light from a $12 ea bulb? Those are also mentioned in @crashnburn80 thread. Try those out, see if it’s what you need and if not, try the next step. All you need to do is trim the base a little.

 

If you really want LEDs only way to go are these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077BT6M6Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or these
https://www.amazon.com/H11-LED-Morimoto-2Stroke-2-0/dp/B07HJHGHRS

anything else will be awful. These are halfway decent. But as other said HIDs are the way to go. having ran both of those LEDs and HIDs I went with the HIDs until the ballasts wore out. And I walked out one night to the trucks headlights being on, despite the headlight switch being in the off position. Took them HIDs off and it fixed the problem.

 

What are "LED"s? Are they different from LED's?

Just taking the piss.

 

I have been running VLEDS brand LEDs since late 2017.

Swapped the standard Halogens for HIDs then went with VLED LEDs when the Lumens increased in them. I did notice a slight drop in distance lighting when I changed the HIDs to LEDs but was OK with it because of all the wiring I was able to get rid if. I have driven down some pretty dark roads around here at highway speed and never felt I was overdrive the light and I do like the "White Light" they project, I am running 5000K but you can choose either 5000K or 6000K.

The cutoff is awesome, when I am behind someone at a traffic light, their trunk is lit up but the passenger compartment is dark, so I am not blinding anyone.

I think mine are around 3500L.

I think the latest version of the VLED LEDs is at 4500L (Micro Extreme) which I believe is comparable to the HIDs I was running, and they are small and very robust.

They fit nicely in the Tacoma, in fact, their demo vehicle is a Tacoma.

They are not cheap, but they are made well, and worth it in my opinion, have had no issues with them over the last 3 years or so.

Tossing around and upgrade to the 4500s right now, but like I said, they are not cheap, but are high quality IMHO.

VLEDs are located in Bellingham, Washington I think.

www.vleds.com

Good luck in the decision making process.

 

I went with the Hikari because I have LED fogs and don't like the look of LED fogs and halogen headlights together. I got the Hikari since those were the only ones that at least matched the stock lights and are what crash recommends from drop ins.

 

After talking to @crashnburn80 about this, I'm going

GE Nightbreaker Xenon +120 (H11)
Or
Philips-German (H9)

 

This is terrible advice.
LED bulbs in the factory fogs WILL blind everyone, and has little to do with your lift.
The light is scattered, and can't be aligned out.
You were flashed because YOU are "that guy"

and yes, BMH, you will regret it.

Read the threads linked previously (not the whole thing, but just the parts on LEDs in our housings)

 

I was looking at those and they were $20 or $30 off during prime day. I almost grabbed 3 sets for everything but was just too much still lol. I’d not really thought about different in the fogs and low beams but it probably would bother me too.