Factory e locker, how good/bad is it?

I’d like to get lockers for my truck and I’m trying to figure out the route I’m going to take and iron out the details. For the front I’m thinking the Eaton e locker, for the rear the only aftermarket option is the ARB. Despite having onboard air, I see too many things going wrong with an air locker, though there is a small chance I may have to go this route. So my question for you guys with the factory e locker is, is it terrible? I know engagement can be iffy based on some digging around I’ve done, but overall is it fairly reliable? Are they strong or have they been known to break? They are cheaper than setting up a ARB rear end. You can get a built unit with whatever gear ratios for under $1k, whereas the ARB carrier itself is $1k and I’d have to add in the cost of accessories to hook it up my compressor, new hardware and time to set up the rear end.

Despite the iffy engagements I keep reading about the advantage I see is that you don’t have to worry about internal or external air leaks and the system is much simpler, so there’s far fewer things that can go wrong which in my opinion outweighs the annoyance of having to roll back and forth trying to get it to engage. What are your thoughts?

 

What size axle do you have now? The Eaton is compatible with some 3rd gen variants.

But if you have an Off-Road or Pro, the only advantage an aftermarket locker would have is bypassing the 4WD ECU for engagement. The factory e-locker in the 3rd gen is a similar style to the Eaton version.

 

I have the 8.75” rear end. Granted I would be wiring the OEM locker myself and I’d run it off a switch.

 

You'd have to dig around here for a wiring diagram. Low Range Offroad made a version for the older style e-locker from 2nd Gens and FJs but I haven't seen anything for a 3rd Gen.

 

How did you end up with the 8.75" rear end without an E-locker?

 

Rowing his truck

 

This thread and the links @BigWhiteTRD posted will help you

 

The Harrop elocker and factory 3rd gen locker are very dissimilar in their actuation methods. The factory elocker directly plunges the locking cam into the side gear to lock the side gear to the carrier. The issue with the factory locker is you need crisp alignment and no bind to get it locked and unlocked. The Harrop elocker uses an electromagnet to generate torque drag on a ramp mechanism that plunges pins into the clutch mechanism. The Harrop therefore experiences a lot of deadband or lash as the wheel direction changes because this ramp mechanism unwinds and rewinds during direction change.

The Harrop costs about $1200 and an ARB is $1000 plus air source.

The ARB definitely can have leaking issues but 95% of the time it's install error or install shortcuts. The ARB engagement is instant and powerful. Elockers lack that powerful engagement.

If you ask me, the ARB is much simpler and robust in mechanical design than the Harrop.

You can't go wrong. Pick your poison and don't look back.

 

I went the the ARB up front with no problems. ECGS supplied 4:88 built differentials and ARB dual compressor (I sent them back the cores). MORE off road makes a nice bracket for the compressor with the tank underneath. MESO custom switch panels are up for sale at the moment if you want one for the switches. A local shop installed the diffs, and my brother and I installed the compressor and tank. I have the e locker in the rear. It's a solid setup. No problems here except for overfilling the front differential (my fault).

I don't have experience with the Eaton, but I've heard they momentarily disengage when going in reverse . @ShimStack and @hoarder23 pretty much covered it. GL with whatever you decide to do. ECGS was super helpful over the phone when I ordered.

 

Manual trucks get open 8.75. TRD OR and Pro get the 8.75 with the e locker. Everything else gets the 8” rear end

 

My dad has ARB air lockers front and rear on his 2000 Cherokee sport. Only issue he had was this last year (about 5 years after having them installed) he had some air leaking and it was a simple fix. They lock up and unlock quickly. I’d say go for it

 

Easiest would be putting in a whole rear axle from a TRD off-road and then just wire up the elocker however you want

 

I’m running 4.88s so I’d have to tear it down either way.

 

Anybody know how I can lock my factory rear diff anytime I want? AND not throw any stupid azz codes?

Another question what gear ratio does a 2018 Double cab, long bed, auto trans, TRD Off road come with? I'm guessing somewhere in the 3.73 to 4.11 range......how far off am I?

 

AT 3.9 MT 4.3 IIRC. Post #7 has the info on anytime locker.

As for oem locker, I don’t think anyone really breaks them. Also I have learned to engage it before you need it. Not after. If you have an ARB you can engage it later.