Turbo BS Thread

Here is also another to compliment yours.

http://www.stainlessbros.com/Sequence-MFG-25-Cast-Wastegate-Merge-Collector_p_688.html

 

I still have this one, which I am aching to mock up and build.

http://www.stainlessbros.com/225-T4-Collector-With-Divided-Inlet--Sequence-Manufacturing_p_400.html

 

Omg all these parts come out after I rid of my 2nd gen.

 

That one looks fun lol

 

Currently, I need to make another passenger header, and crossover. Then I'll have the hotside up for sale.

The crossover will bolt to the driver side header. Whether stock, or aftermarket. Will be meant for a T4 turbo, with external wastegate.

Going to make my Rocket stove first, then work on that.

 

That one would be good for twins.

However, you are in line for that anyway.

 

Yea hopefully it arrives before holidays but we’ll see. Would like to install over the 3 day weekends

 

Non Yoder but turbo related.

It went from a pile of bits to a...finished product. Compared to the cast mani I previously had that was a PITA. It still spools the same and is a little cooler under the hood, too. I was able to shorten it 9/16” as well giving me some much needed clearance next to the firewall.


Side note that could be relatable to the Toyota head. My VW had the normal exhaust double studs and I ended up helicoiling two of the holes. Upon further inspection I found that there was another 8mm of threaded bolt hole depth not even used. So I ordered some longer bolts with an internal allen head. Thought this may save someone in the future if it’s the same scenario. I went ahead and replaced everyone of them.

This is the amount of extra thread screwed into the head. I trimmed them down with a cut off wheel so that they’d stick out the same as OEM.


Found this website after buying some nuts off of Amazon. I go straight to the source now and they still have crazy fast shipping as well as a plethora of metric hardware. Definitely worth a look if your putting in work.
https://www.belmetric.com/

 

Here's to not being happy with good enough.

 

Hey guys,

I've got an '09 2tr-fe 5-speed with 125,000 miles. I hope to drive it til 300,000 miles. I bought the truck in '13 and haven't had a single problem with the engine, and I have performed all maintenance and upgrades along the way. Engine is mostly stock aside from an lce header. I try not to be in a hurry, and I appreciate the engine for it's simplicity and reliability, but I've come to accept that I am just asking too much of the engine sometimes when I'm towing or hauling in the mountains. I want to add a mild turbo setup. I'm not interested in trading in the truck for a 4.0.

Anyway, if I'm going to do it, I want to do it right, so as to not significantly compromise the longevity or reliability of the engine. I'll take my time with planning it out and collecting parts. I'm a fairly inexperienced mechanic and inexperienced with turbo setups, but I'm confident in my mechanical aptitude and ability to learn and do it right if I'm patient, so I'm hoping that if I lay out some of my plans and pose some questions now, that the collective wisdom of this forum can help steer me in the right direction early on.

I just want a simple, reliable, mild, quality setup, on a reasonable budget... let's say $3k tops, hopefully less. I'm more interested in building power at lower rpms and maintaining mpg than I am in maximizing top-end power. I'm thinking 5-6psi max should let me gain more than enough power for my needs.... here's what I'm thinking:

- high-quality, small internal-wg turbo... something like this? https://www.lceperformance.com/Garrett-GT2554R-Turbo-Low-Boost-p/1071000.htm

- would there be any advantages to an external wastegate for my needs?

- it's a bummer that there are no high quality manifold options for the 2tr-fe (at least that I'm aware of), when there are lots of options for the 3rz. So, buy one of the alibaba manifolds (like this: https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...253.html?spm=a2700.7724857.0.0.2b3328b51KhIE7) and have the flanges machined, and maybe add braces... or would it be worth building a custom one in the long run? If I built my own, would there be any reason not to build a simple log style manifold?

-dealing with the secondary air injection system (SAIS)... use a hewitt SAIS delete kit (https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=82). This will allow me to avoid a CEL, and also allow me to completely remove the SAIS pump and valve assemblies, yes? Then, I imagine the air injection holes on the head need to be covered/blocked by the new exhaust manifold flange, right? Can I use an oem gasket as long as the new flange covers these holes?

-MAF before or after turbo? I've seen it done both ways. If after turbo, before or after BOV, or does it matter? I imagine that wherever it is, it should be in a straight section of pipe and far away from things like the BOV that might cause turbulence.

-I hope to be able to go without an intercooler for simplicity, budget, and to retain space underhood. This shouldn't be a problem at 5psi?

-Boost control... the BOV (i think I should use one that vents to the intake?) and WG limit the max boost that can reach the engine, yes? These can be adjusted by replacing springs, or with some sort of external adjuster? So, both bov and wg would be set to vent at 5psi if that's what I wanted to run? Am I on the right track with this?

-I don't forsee myself wanting to tinker with this indefinitely (famous last words, or perhaps naive)... but ideally I'd like to get it setup and tuned and then run it like that for a long time... any suggestions for a simple and affordable tuning options?

I know this is likely to trigger some "if you have to ask these questions, this project may be too ambitious for you" type responses, but I reckon I'd like to get some of the stupid questions out of the way early on and better inform my research. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

You have the right attitude, and asking the right questions. Which state do you live in?

 

@BassAckwards , I am going to need you to make a trip down so that we can make a turbo header.

 

I talked with LCE and they are going to do another run of the flanges but it got put on the back burner right now. They told me they’d reach out once it comes in though. I am definitely interested in making this happen at some point

 

Take that oem header, and have a flange made, or reuse it. Or send it to me, and I could have some made.

 

Looks like you've done your research. Check out one of the guy's thread on here. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you are looking to do. I'd recommend going to to a gt2871. It will still boost pretty low. I'm sure an aftermarket clutch will be in your future.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dirtdigginjoes-project-red-rocket-build.552433/

 

Quote, "Hey guys,

I've got an '09 2tr-fe 5-speed with 125,000 miles. I hope to drive it til 300,000 miles. I bought the truck in '13 and haven't had a single problem with the engine, and I have performed all maintenance and upgrades along the way. Engine is mostly stock aside from an lce header. I try not to be in a hurry, and I appreciate the engine for it's simplicity and reliability, but I've come to accept that I am just asking too much of the engine sometimes when I'm towing or hauling in the mountains. I want to add a mild turbo setup. I'm not interested in trading in the truck for a 4.0.

Anyway, if I'm going to do it, I want to do it right, so as to not significantly compromise the longevity or reliability of the engine. I'll take my time with planning it out and collecting parts. I'm a fairly inexperienced mechanic and inexperienced with turbo setups, but I'm confident in my mechanical aptitude and ability to learn and do it right if I'm patient, so I'm hoping that if I lay out some of my plans and pose some questions now, that the collective wisdom of this forum can help steer me in the right direction early on.

I just want a simple, reliable, mild, quality setup, on a reasonable budget... let's say $3k tops, hopefully less. I'm more interested in building power at lower rpms and maintaining mpg than I am in maximizing top-end power. I'm thinking 5-6psi max should let me gain more than enough power for my needs.... here's what I'm thinking:

- high-quality, small internal-wg turbo... something like this? https://www.lceperformance.com/Garrett-GT2554R-Turbo-Low-Boost-p/1071000.htm

Use this to make the right choice for your turbo selection. I feel your choice is a tad on the small side. That intake connection requires a 3-bolt flange as well. Making it a little harder to put an intake together. https://www.garrettmotion.com/turbocharger-technology/how-a-turbo-works/expert/

- would there be any advantages to an external wastegate for my needs?
Depending on if the internal wastegate can come with a 5-6 psi spring or not, an external may be the better choice. Sometimes turbo fitment/packaging will require an external. Or visa versa. There are a larger variety of spring ranges for an external W/G. Typically for high boost, they control pressures more accurately.

- it's a bummer that there are no high quality manifold options for the 2tr-fe (at least that I'm aware of), when there are lots of options for the 3rz. So, buy one of the alibaba manifolds (like this: https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...253.html?spm=a2700.7724857.0.0.2b3328b51KhIE7) and have the flanges machined, and maybe add braces... or would it be worth building a custom one in the long run? If I built my own, would there be any reason not to build a simple log style manifold?

That one has been used and "works", but has proven repeatedly to crack. Poor quality materials used, and a lack of bracing. Thin wall tubing manifolds need bracing.
A log manifold for your desires would work exceptionally well, and could be crafted from stainless pipe. Thick, sturdy, and easily adapted for an external W/G if necessary. Cheaply made by myself (I need a truck in hand though.) or any other fabricator easily.

-dealing with the secondary air injection system (SAIS)... use a hewitt SAIS delete kit (https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=82). This will allow me to avoid a CEL, and also allow me to completely remove the SAIS pump and valve assemblies, yes? Then, I imagine the air injection holes on the head need to be covered/blocked by the new exhaust manifold flange, right? Can I use an oem gasket as long as the new flange covers these holes?

The Hewitt will work. I believe that OVTune has the tuning software available for your engine. Not sure if the 09+ or 12+ though. There is also the Map-Ecu3, and purportedly HP Tuner. Haven't heard anything on that last one in a long while.
Depending on the SAIS port location, a separate block-off plate might be necessary, to adequately seal that port.

-MAF before or after turbo? I've seen it done both ways. If after turbo, before or after BOV, or does it matter? I imagine that wherever it is, it should be in a straight section of pipe and far away from things like the BOV that might cause turbulence.

MAF pre-turbo requires a recirculating BOV. You can still have turbulence across the MAF.

MAF post-turbo has to have the BOV before the MAF sensor. No closer than 6 inches if possible. Using a flow straightener before the MAF is a must. It helps the most, and this is my preferred method on these trucks. Out of the price range, I know, but the Borg Warner EFR turbo come with an internal W/G, and integrated BOV.

-I hope to be able to go without an intercooler for simplicity, budget, and to retain space underhood. This shouldn't be a problem at 5psi?

You could get away without one, but because you are going to do towing, you should definitely have one. Your inlet air temps will get hot. You don't want that.
Mishimoto and Treadstone Performance off reasonably low priced intercoolers.

-Boost control... the BOV (i think I should use one that vents to the intake?) and WG limit the max boost that can reach the engine, yes? These can be adjusted by replacing springs, or with some sort of external adjuster? So, both bov and wg would be set to vent at 5psi if that's what I wanted to run? Am I on the right track with this?

Springs limit the W/G. A boost controller will raise that, but can not lower the boost below the wastegate's spring pressure.

BOV is actuated off of vacuum pressure. So it uses a different spring.

-I don't forsee myself wanting to tinker with this indefinitely (famous last words, or perhaps naive)... but ideally I'd like to get it setup and tuned and then run it like that for a long time... any suggestions for a simple and affordable tuning options?

See above.

I know this is likely to trigger some "if you have to ask these questions, this project may be too ambitious for you" type responses, but I reckon I'd like to get some of the stupid questions out of the way early on and better inform my research. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance."

 

This is actually the turbo I had in my mind as well.

 

Pardon the ignorance, I don’t have time to go through 600 pages of this thread tonight lol-

Has anybody found a cheap way to tune a turbo 2TR? $2500 for a haltech is simply out of my reach. I’m trying to budget about $2500 total for parts, and if any welding/tapping is needed then whatever a shop here will charge me. Trying to keep the total below $4k.

I’m glad to see that there are actually quite a few turbo 2TR guys out there, I originally thought Joe was the only one on this forum lol

 

The MAP-ECU3 is what comes with the URD Rotrex supercharger kit.

OVTune also has tuning software available for the OEM ecu.

 

I thought OVTune only supported the 3rd gen 2.7 currently?

I love what he did for my Manual 3.5, honestly a tune from him might make me content with just regearing and an LCE header for a while (if the tune wakes up the 2TR as much as it did the 2GR). But then again, why spend $2500 on gears when I could just spend another $1500 + some hours and have boost?