TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

2.5”. It was the smallest I could fit on with out cutting too much of the sc snout.

 

I do not believe anyone has performed a dyno with a 2.3. If so, it would be at the end of the thread.

 

Thanks

thanks for that info. Very helpful. Very tempting to even just drop the pulley down to a 2”. Even that would make a difference. Question is, how much more can I cut back the snout? I’m worried if I cut that last 2mm off then I will do damage.

 

I actually cut the snout way back - with an angle grinder - then filed it to look nice-ish and re-painted it. The problem is the snap ring underneath came out. But I haven't had any adverse effects from that happening. I did have to put about a 1/4" spacers on the idlers though to make everything line up - you'll notice in my picture the hub doesn't quite go all the way on (because you can't cut back the snout enough). I think the limit for snout cutting without totally hacking it off is around 2.2".

 

Yeah that was my main concern was that snap ring.
I cut mine back with a die grinder. Took a while but worked well. I’ll send you a picture of it soon to get your feed back on what I can do. My father in law is a metal turner and he made the 2.5” pulley for me. So if I can go smaller that’s what I’ll be doing. I’ll flick the photo over soon.

 

This was taken months ago while I was die grinding it. It is much neater than this. Lol! As you can see I left on around 2-3mm. Are you saying I’m fine to take off that last bit I left on? That way I can definitely go smaller pulley.

 

Well considering I removed the snap ring and have been running for two years with no ill effects... I’m not even sure why it’s there. I don’t want to recommend you remove it... since I don’t know what the engineers wanted it there for, but maybe you can.

 

Hmmm well that to me sounds like I should be sweet to cut her back. See how I go. Thanks for the advice

 

That was one of my questions. Is it the same thread as the Toyota shifter? I’d like to keep my TRD shift knob.

 

It’s not. It’s an imperial thread, but it’s smaller than Toyota, I actually bought a little brass adapter to adapt up to the Toyota thread so I can use some of my other shift knobs.

 

That seal is pressed in pretty good. Guess that snap ring is just secondary protection from the seal popping out.

As for the snout being cut down completely. I don’t see a problem since the bearings are actually supporting the shaft.

 

No they are different thread sizes

 

How is your truck setup that your only seeing 269-270 hp? Bigger tires? 2.8’s have run closer to 300+ depending on dyno and tire setup. I haven’t dyno but my g/s is peaking 272 or so.

 

Most high end shift knob/lever companies and websites offer inserts that adapt the threads to fit.

 

Im taking this Knob if truck ever gets totaled
https://jspfab.com/collections/shift-knobs

 

I forget who makes its, but this is my weighted shift knob. Totally coming with me when the truck dies.

 

I'm not touching anyone else's knobs....




Mine is kinda funny looking but I absolutely play with it every chance I get.

 

I've got multiple knobs to play with

 

Been meaning to do that for a while. Never trusted the electronics in the newer trucks and always loved using the manual levers in the older ones. So simple and bulletproof.

 

TRD knob/short shifter here and I found a grey j-shift knob on eBay that matches pretty close