vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma-AGM tuning

lol, whatever you gotta tell yourself. Here’s a random selection of pics from my last month.






Oh, and this is my back yard.

 

Your post was what got me thinking and I emailed Odyssey and they got me the table in about 5 minutes.
Now I just need it for the Stock Tacoma battery and I can calculate most of the differences as well as the base voltage most of these original percentages are based on.

 

It was soooo cold this morning... freezing my butt off at a frigid 51 deg F.

 

Here it is for anyone looking: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tacoma-agm-tuning.689652/page-3#post-24418340

It moves by the same amount (18mv) as the odyssey battery. I feel like we are overcharging these although I don't have a good sense of how the ECT compares to the battery temperature.

Here's my voltage log over a 40 mile trip using these numbers only:



I think I'm going to back off on them a bit and see if I can get it to taper to around 14-14.1

FYI it was 60 degrees air temp when I started it up this morning.

 

It's actually this post:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tacoma-agm-tuning.689652/page-5#post-24436948

Temp (C) | Voltage
-----------------
-40 | 15.57v
-30 | 15.39v
0 |14.85v
30 | 14.31v
60 | 13.77v
90 | 13.3v
120 | 13.3v
150 | 13.3v
168 | 13.3v

 

To be clear though, we are setting it off of engine coolant temp, not the temperature of the engine compartment. I'm going to borrow a thermocouple from work and see if I can get some temp measurements near the battery on my drive home.

 

That’s what I want to know. Actual temp of the battery.

 

I didn't have time to find our thermocouples with long leads so I can't answer that question yet. Hopefully I can find one tomorrow though and I'll tape it to the side of the battery for some pseudo science!

Here's my settings from my 40 mile drive home (starting temp at 54 *F).


Here's the log



I like that it's hovering in that 14.1-14.2 range (I think), but I think the big jump between 30 and 60 may be too drastic and causing it to fluctuate more than before. But those dips also roughly correspond with where I hit some traffic so that could be where my coolant temps were highest..

EDIT: I just found a logger for Ambient Air Temp. Anyone know if that works?

 

Did we ever get an answer on if there's hidden tables for float vs charge? We still have that issue that needs to be addressed. I feel like there has to be a table for that, since the stock battery needs that once it's fully charged anyway.

 

I kinda don’t think float charge is a thing we have to worry about. That’s more of when your battery is on a charger at home. These batteries are always seeing load so I think they are always charging. I think. I’m not a battery engineer though

 

My thought exactly....I don't think we get to a point where a float charge is necessary.

 

@mZiggy @banjoist13 @Shellshock
I know these guys have been on this alot. Maybe they can see if the Ambient Air Temp you found can help. Or @Mooseditty17 can see also. Shine a light on that finding

 

Your jump from 30 to 60 is a bigger jump than stock..

What I’d personally do is take the stock ECT values and +4 to each one.. then you have the same taper as stock, just higher output. Thats similar to what i did for the duty cycles

 

Ambient air seems to be outside temp. I also measured intake air just to see if it changed but it stays pretty constant. ECT's were steady at 90 *C. I did a gut check after my drive to work, 40 miles at freeway speed, battery was cool to the touch, warmer than the outside air but not much.

Here's the log


So in my book the most important values to set based on the ECT are 0 to 90. I would base the values you use there more off of what your typical weather is and not what the ECT is, targeting a voltage of 14.3 or 14.4 if you live in a hot area, and 14.5-14.7 if you live in a cooler/cold area. That would be for optimal charging. I think if you generally target 14.3-14.7 you will be safe and get good life out of your battery.* A modest taper at higher temps is probably a good idea but I don't think it's all that likely unless you're prone to overheating. At lower temps, you can probably increase it but it probably doesn't matter because your engine will still warm up relatively quickly. But again, I'm not a battery engineer.

*ETA: This depends on the optimal charging voltage for your particular battery.

 

Do you still stick by the +4 for ECT? What is the + for the duty cycles? please

 

My ECTs are currently set at 94 from 30 and up. Duty cycles are +20 (except for cycle 1)

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...mission-3rd-gens.687939/page-13#post-24354303

 

If your truck gets much hotter than 94C you better pull over. That's right at where my truck runs when it's warmed up.

 

The values from 0 to 160 correlate to temperature (in Celsius). The 94 is for the voltage output.

 

Got it. How do you determine what your 94 setting represents in volts?

 

Monitor control module voltage with the data logger