2020 Key Amp and Hideaway Installation Complete

Where did you tie into the remote turn on? Sounds like the amp may be getting some interference . does the sound of the low static increase as volume does?

 

I didn’t use the remote turn on wire, I used the DC on turn on. I havent seen where anyone mentions where to hook in the remote wire, just to use the DC switch feature on the 2020.

yes, it does increase with volume. I moved my ground and messed around with the wiring. It seems to be worse with the front speakers, not noticeable in the rear. My solder joints don’t seem to do anything if it play with them while it is on, so I don’t think it is them.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2020-tacoma-sr5-non-jbl-wiring-diagram.656554/page-2 post #23 and down

If I recall it was pin 19.. it was grey on color.

 

do you have the gains turned up too high? mine are set barely above min

 

Nope, they are set to minimum. I'm about to give up and just sell it. The hum is not something I enjoy and like quiet a lot when I am driving. Redid all my solder points and ran a separate ground to different points. Still have the same amount of hum.

 

bad amp? i can tell you I have no hum whatsoever in my setup.

 

I will give kicker a shout then.

 

Thanks so much for this write up... It's exactly what I was looking for.

Question: With this method, you aren't messing with R49 or R48 at all, right? You are basically using the TacoTooooonz harness (modified) on R51 and then running power directly to the battery? I think I have that right, but I'm stupid.

 

you only use the speaker wires terminal which may be R51. You can get the add a sub instead of add a amp and it’s like half the price if you want to stick the amp above the glove box.

 

thank you sir. One last stupid question...

I’m not planning on adding a hideaway sub yet, but might in the future. As such, when I solder together this harness, I might as well add some leads for the sub to tap into. Should I add them to the input or output side of the key amp? Does it really matter?

 

Input side of the key, 100%
You don’t want the key’s crossover, EQ, or extra power to go to the sub

 

The add a sub instead of the add a amp comes with everything to add the amp and has the extra leads for adding a sub later. I don't have a sub, just the amp. So what I did was cut the sub leads off and taped up the side in case someone else wants to use this harness to add a sub later. The rest of the harness can be cut in half and used to add a amplifier in above the glove box, there isn't enough wire with it to put it anywhere else. If you get the add a amp, you have plenty of wires to add the amp anywhere you want. The price difference is like $35 to $70, it just depends on where you want to put the amp.

Just trying to say, you save money by buying the add a sub to use for your amp if you don't plan on putting the amp somewhere far from the glove box.

 

So is the consensus of the more cost efficient harness the "tacotoons" harness? I plan on getting either the hideaway sub, and adding the keys later on. Which harness do I need? I plan on using the Kicker Keys 200.4 to supply power to my front speaker/tweeter & rear door speakers in the future.

Has anyone used Metras harness to make something?

Also, assuming I will not need a LOC (was looking at LC2I Pro) if I go the route of making a T-harness? I'm really trying to avoid splicing or cutting my factory harness.

Current Setup on my 2020 TRD OR non-JBL:
Subaru Kicker Plug N' Play Tweeter
Kicker 47KSC69304 6X9" 3 Way Car Speakers *ideally, I would have wanted to get components but I had already bought the Subaru Tweeters beforehand*
Kicker 47 KSC6704 6-3/4" 2-Way Car Speakers

 

I used the burrito tunes harness. It was super simple. I also has the kicker key 200.4 and the 8” hideaway sub. Get the “add an amp” harness. Only other thing you will need to do is run power to your battery and ground somewhere.

The only thing I will say on the harness is, don’t use the wires they supply for the sub. For some unknown reason they tap into the back speaker for it. The rear speakers are super under powered. Instead, I tapped into the front left and right, at the connection to the Key amp, and then ran those back around to the hideaway sub. I don’t know if using the back speaker to power the sub will cause any issues, but I figured I’d be safe any do away with that chance.

 

No, it's too expensive compared to $35 for the add a sub harness from taco toons, unless you want to put the amp somewhere besides above your glovebox.

 

I was wondering on the taco tunes add a sub harness, I read that it only provides wires for only one set of speakers (front or rear), so if i'm not mistaken, this wouldn't work for the Keys amp if I plan on using it to power all 4 of my main speakers correct?

 

it provides a short patch cable for all speakers and it taps in a really long cord for one set of speakers for the sub. You cut the short patch cable in half and use your two kicker key harnesses to make two different patch cables with the now split taco toons cable. It works fine with all speakers, it’s just short.

I’ve run the 2018+ Camry version of the add a sub before he made a 2020 Taco one.

 

I got my key amp installed. I thought I’d be slick and just solder a t harness by cutting R51. Well not sure what’s up with those purple wires from R51 for the fronts but they were a pain to solder. Kept getting cold solder joints. Had to butt splice a few connections. The back speakers red black yellow white were all copper and soldered right up. The front Purple/ pink/ violet/ blue / green where all silver looking. Very brittle.
I’ve been soldering for over 20 years just haven’t had an issue like this. Just some feedback to anyone looking to chop their cable. Prob best to get one of those toons adapters. Thanks OP for the write up.

 

The front wires are aluminum for some reason. Not sure why toyota went that route. Same in the 2016-2020 as well.

 

Probably had issues with corrosion in the past. Now it makes sense. I had flux core solder, needed some flux for aluminum wire. Thanks