Which Cargo Trailer Brand?

I am looking at purchasing a cargo trailer for conversion into a camper. There are a lot of different brands/vendors available on the market. Do any of you have any good knowledge to which of these brands are higher quality than others? I know they are pretty simple in construction, but that is where quality of construction comes in to play. Right now I am looking at Anvil and USA Cargo Trailer. Thanks!

 

If you are going to do a conversion, I'd suggest looking into one with laminated sides, v nose, one piece roof. Depending on the length and layout, I'd also suggest searching for 16" center floor bracing rather than 24".
This is where I started my major teardown work on my Interstate trailer. I'm happy with how it is going, but factory quality is low. Bad enough that when I posted pictures and info on their Facebook, they deleted it and blocked me.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/maybe-ill-work-on-my-something.375786/page-18#post-18053073

 

I did a cargo trailer conversion on a 7x16 Charmac "Stealth" line trailer. I also use and have access to 6x12 and 8x20 Interstate Pro-series trailers. There are so many brands making trailers out there that its hard track them all. Keep in mind that most brands have several lines that vary in quality and cost. Interstate pro-series and Wells Cargo cargo wagons are very high quality. But apparently Interstate's lower line trailers aren't so great. As with anything else you get what you pay for with cargo trailers. There's a reason why some 6x12 trailers cost $2000 and some cost $5000+. If one seems like a "deal" be suspicious.

 

I looked at your entire history of building that trailer up...very impressive! The quality issues you experienced with the interstate trailer are exactly why I started this thread. I dont have the ability/knowledge nor tooling to make the improvements you made and is why its important for me to buy something I know I can trust the build quality. I'm confident in my ability to finish out the inside, but I'm not a welder or anything like that.

I've seen that cargo trailers offer different quality builds, but I assume that to be more material related and not necessarily related to the quality of construction. Thats why I thought this might be a good place for some real world feedback on brands that have a high quality build.

 

All you have to do is look at the build sheet. Steel or aluminum build? 0.024” vs 0.030” skin, box frame or c-channel? 16” On-center all the way around or are the walls and roof 24” OC ? Tandem axle or single? Brakes on one axle, both, or none? V nose or flat? Barn doors or ramp door? OSB, plywood or aluminum. There are many variables and every one influences price.

Personally I’d get the most stout built trailer you can afford, brand aside. All that really matters is the spec sheet.

 

Wouldn't you be farther ahead to purchase a camper from the get go?

Many small towables from motorcycle type campers, teardrops, folding, small hardsides....... Cruise Ebay, many choices.

 

Yes, I understand that much and that's what I'm using as the basis for my decision, but I'm hoping to take it a step further by getting feedback on quality of construction. Some examples of poor construction from the interstate trailer above are: sealant bead not being run all the way to edge, mastic tape not having the backing pulled off, paint/corrosion protection not being applied to all the steel, anchoring screws threads being stripped,etc. A spec sheet won't tell you that kind of stuff and all the specs don't matter if not assembled properly.

I have considered just buying a camper, but I can spec out what I want for about $15k in a cargo trailer and the equivalent camper is probably $30k.

 

Yes, new they get expensive.

Many used units only a few years old come waaaaayyyyyy down in price.

 

If I were to go this route, I'd find a shitbox vintage aluminum trailer on CL. Strip that to the walls and rebuild how I like.

 

I've converted a 7x16 into a toy hauler. Full bathroom, shower, sink, oven, 12v compressor fridge. I run everything off 200w of solar.

Here is my basic advice.
Make sure skin thickness is at least 0.030" anything thinner wrinkles and is more likely to crack
Make sure it's all tube construction, none of that C hannel or hat, or Z or whatever.
Make sure the walls are held on with actual screws and not the screw headed nails
Think very hard about not doing a V-nose. If you want batteries, propane, a spare tire get a flat or round nose. The space in the V is difficult to use and takes away from useable inside.

I have a multi page tips and buyers guide on one of the facebook groups if you want more. I also have a build thread on TNTTT.

 

My recommendation for the V nose is for towing comfort and aerodynamics, not usable space. However, that space can become usable for different things depending on layout.

 

The theoretical benefits of a v-nose is a much contested topic. Most people argue that there is little to no actual benefit to a v-nose and that most of the drag comes from the rear of the trailer.

 

Theoretical vs real world, I can say that a v nose is less of a flat friggin wall going down the road. Pulled better and got better mpg to tow the exact same route than my non-v nose. Not a whole heck of a lot can be done on the back end.