Advice Needed - Damage remediation from genesis dual battery kit

ive looked at this, and this is probably what im gonna go with if i cant figure out something else, chances are, i'd still need some major repair work done due to the poor engineering of this kit.

 

If the batteries fell out of the aftermarket dual battery holder then you would have a failure of the manufacturer of the aftermarket parts.

Installing batteries, with aftermarket parts, that are heavier and larger in the same place that Toyota designed for a single smaller battery is not poor engineering on the company that made the aftermarket parts you installed.

 

the kit itself, was poorly engineered, and on another thread on this very forum, genesis admitted that they had issues with this happening to 3rd gen trucks using this exactly battery kit, and that theyve updated the design for it to not do this level of damage anymore.

 

i would love that. i feel like it would probably solve all of my problems pretty quickly

 

Easy solution

 

Only if engineering demonstrates that the residual strength exceeds ultimate load; including crack growth until the next inspection.

 

I'm with this guy, this is obviously the way to go.

 

He's in the Hilux forum, spectacular build.

 

Drill stopping cracks is often over prescribed and is not an effective repair for vehicle sheet metal. It sure feels good to reference aircraft repair and apply to vehicles. I don't recall a Cessna ever having to compete with potholes, expansion joints, driveway aprons, surface transitions as it has a 100# worth of batteries placed on a structure that was never designed to hold that must weight in the first place. The constant shock loading = death

 

Engineering? At small repair stations and maintenance facilities AC43.13 is the engineering.

 

Replacement of the part would be ideal but not practical cost or labor wise.
Reinforcement is the key, and it should be done properly to restore strength and stiffness without causing increased stress/loads on adjacent structure. Obviously the structure is not up for the load is bearing, so repair should be done via stop drill and reinforcement, THEN a better solution for carrying the load should be implemented. The repair is not the problem, the use of too much mass on a underbuilt support is the problem.

Btw, Cessna uses the same maintenance practices and techniques as every other Aircraft manufacturer including those that are abused and punished regularly. 14500lb Cessna caravan loaded to max gross weight landing hard at 125mph on a gravel runway twice a day every day is no picnic for the airframe.

 

It's designed for cycles so there's a difference. Toyota never thought someone was going to strap 100# of batteries to a structure

I do contract work for a helicopter company and I once asked how come they don't truck the helicopters on a flatbed. (They work 1000s of miles from their home base.) I was told the techs and accountants had crunched the numbers and the constant pounding to the airframe from being strapped to a flatbed wasn't worth it.

 

@eurowner is right you know. This is a VERY well documented issue on 2nd gens even with a single stock battery and significant offroad use. The issue is with Toyota's design of putting all the battery weight on the sheet metal core support.

It's no surprise that putting 2 batteries in the same spot does the same thing just quicker. End of the day you decided to bolt 2 batteries where there were one so I wouldn't expect much from genesis to resolve the issue. Welcome to the world of vehicle modifications.

Relocate both batteries and stop drill the cracks would be the best DIY solution if you can't weld. If you're set on keeping it there you'll have to build a tubing core support as other members have done.

 

What does any of this have to do with helping OP remedy his problem?

 

Because you think aircraft some how applies to cars and it doesn't. The two are not even in the same ballpark. Drill stopping isn't going to remedy shit

 

Drill stopping the crack and welding it closed is the way to repair it. Drilling out the end of the crack removes the fissure and welding it closed properly will remediate it as long as the load from that battery monster is also removed. I would probably also plate the welded area. Some of the repairs I saw in other posts on this subject are what is shit; sloppy, cold welds that likely created more problems than they fixed. I would never, regardless of the fix, put those dual batteries back there. Like I said in an earlier post, split the batteries and relocate #2 to the area behind the air box. Find a smaller battery set that will do the job. That area simply isn't strong enough to carry that weight. Even with a single battery in that location, given the damage already done, I would consider how I might spread the load to keep from having future problems.

 

It's not the weight, it's the energy caused by the mass and hard jarring directional changes. in other words 32 ft per second per second...

 

Not bad design from them... they just facilitated your decision to mount a whole bunch of weight where a whole bunch of weight shouldn't go.
FJ Cruisers had the same problem.

 

I know I am not helping, but anybody show me an AC43.13 'stop-drill or relief-hole' type repair that doesn't install a repair doubler please...
The repair doubler is what reduces the stress in the discrepant area. I don't recall any, but I might not be remembering one.
(and no, transparencies don't count)...

Now we return to our regularly scheduled disaster...

 

I think most people that mention drill stop saw something on Reddit and think it's the perfect fit for everything