DEO Electric fan kit 15 spots

How well is your shroud sealing to your csf radiator? Do you have weather stripping to help seal? My idle temps have been fine but I am running the fjc csf rad (single row vs tacoma dual row). It’s interesting to me that it seems to be a 3rd gen issue as far as I can tell. Myself and one other 2nd gen haven’t had higher idle temps as far as I know.

 

its the stabilization temp we have it set to idle due to factory thermostat at 186. want it a bit over to keep coolant flowing. if it creeps higher there will be more fan commanded. now if you want it to run cooler set the starting or ending temp lower till you have your desired temp

 

Thanks for the info. My setting are 140 start and 240 ending. I am going to drop start temp to 130 and give that a try. Or should i drop both temp settings by 10 and try that?

 

Yes i have the weather stripping to help seal it.

 

well that is a flip of the coin. since its a linear progression. so going to 130 on the start is half the move dropping both by 10 are. try one then the other. also what thermostat do you have. you want to be stable at least 195 to prevent thermostat flutter and premature wear

 

Stock OEM thermostat

 

then you want to stay higher then then 190 stable

 

If you drop the start to 130 from 140 and keep 240 end temp then your increasing your fan speed from 62% to 65% at 195 deg. If you drop both by 10 deg your fan speed will be 70% at 195 deg.

I’m currently set to 130 and 240 and I’m seeing roughly 203 deg at long traffic lights. This is with my AC on and outside temp in the mid 80’s. I think I’m going to drop the end temp to 230 and see what that does.

 

9 bills. God damn. Last time i put an electric fan in a car it was like 3

 

last time it was a non pwm motor and smart controller

 

Do tell. What makes this system a value at 900¿.

Mind you, i am pro electric fan if you are trying to free up a couple.of ponies

What makes these pwm motors so benificial and same for the controller relative to a flex a lite set up


I'll hang up and listen.

 

ICYMI here is his original post:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cooling-issues-not-anymore.682278/

Not sure where you are located but many of us watching and a few that already purchased live in hot climates where the Taco's A/C is subpar at idle and city driving. The TSB from Toyota is a kluge. This is a much simpler solution. So its not just for the ponies.

 

guy you wont see a lower idle temp unless you change my settings. you CAN NOT have an idle stabilization temp close to thermostat opening temp. this causes the thermostat to constantly open and close and wear prematurely. but you wont see idle go up as outside temp goes up it will maintain that 203. when testing it 100 degrees here in nc and i was stable at 205

 

you get soft start. actual command not just on or off. you get to set starting and max command tempature. you get a fan that is 500% more powerful and oem validated

 

Following up on your linear thinking, here is some math for three stabilizing temperatures (195F, 200F, 205F) with three different start/max temperature settings on the LF smart controller. Each stabilizing temperature is properly above the 186F OEM thermostat temperature.

The start speed of the fan is 15% and end speed is 100%, thus the consistent 85% difference. We see that the fan stabilization is anywhere between 60% and 79% command, depending on the start/max LF settings.

For fun I included the amperage for the 60% command and the 79% command fan.

(1) Start: 150F Max: 240F (60 - 67% fan command) (Factory Setting)
90F = 85%, 1F = .944%

195F is a 45F increase. 45 * .994 = 44.73 = 59.73% (830W/13.6 x .5973 = 36.5 Amps)
200F is a 50F increase. 50 * .944 = 47.22% = 62.22% command
205F is a 55F increase. 55 * .944 = 51.92 = 66.92% command

(2) Start: 130F Max: 240F (65 - 73% fan command)
110F = 85%, 1F = .773%

195F is a 65F increase. 65 * .773 = 50.25 = 65.25%
200F is a 70F increase. 70 * .773 = 54.09 = 69.08%
205F is a 75F increase. 75 * .773 = 57.95 = 72.95%

(3) Start: 130F Max: 230F (70 - 79% fan command)
100F = 85%, 1F = .85%

195F is a 65F increase. 65 * .85 = 55.25 = 70.25%
200F is a 70F increase. 70 * .85 = 59.5 = 74.5%
205F is a 75F increase. 75 * .85 = 63.75 = 78.75% (830W/13.6V x .7875 = 48.06 Amps)

 

So when I get my kit I don't have to mess with anything right? There's just the option to change your settings? You guys doing math is hurting my brain.

 

Just mess with it if you like to tinker.

Or you note your stabilization temperature is too high or too low for your environment/carrying/towing conditions.

 

just remeber these engines were designed to run at temps 200+. we push factory vettes to a track stabilized temp of over 280 degrees for a full tank of fuel.

 

per another forum. the main issue with engine temp is making sure you oil does come up to temp but doesn't over heat.


By Jim Kerr

Automobile manufacturers use many methods to improve fuel economy. One that you may not have considered is the use of lighter-viscosity engine oils. Toyota, Honda, Ford, Chrysler, Mazda and Mitsubishi are some of the manufacturers that are specifying the use of 0W-20 synthetic engine oils in some of their vehicles. Toyota has even been using 0W-20 synthetic motor oil as a factory fill in several models since 2006; if your vehicle currently uses 5W-20 conventional oil, then the 0W-20 synthetic oil is an option.

So why would you use

$53 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil? First of all, this synthetic oil has excellent stability through a wide temperature range. For example, Mobil1 0W-20 oil pours at temperatures as low as –47 degrees Celsius and protects at oil temperatures as high as 205 degrees Celsius. This is far outside the normal operating range for almost all vehicles.

Vehicles in past decades needed thicker conventional oil with viscosity ratings of 10W-30 or higher. As temperatures went up, the oil would thin out but by having a thicker initial viscosity the oil could still keep moving parts protected. There are many car owners and automotive technicians too who still think you need high viscosity oils to protect engine parts. This may have been true when engine parts were not as precisely made, but now more precise engine parts and the advanced chemistry in 0W-20 oil provides this same protection and has additional benefits as well.

Because 0W-20 flows so well at cold temperatures, it lubricates parts faster during cold starts. Most engine wear occurs during the first couple of minutes after a cold start and fast flowing oil protects sooner; it also allows the engine to crank faster so it can start more quickly. These are real benefits on a cold Canadian winter morning.

Another benefit of 0W20 is reduced internal engine friction, which improves fuel economy in the range of 0.5 to two per cent. This may not seem like much, but improving fuel economy is done in small steps. Every little bit helps and it could save you several hundreds of dollars in fuel costs over the life of the vehicle.

Some of the fuel economy savings result from less power needed to drive the oil pump in the engine – the lighter viscosity oil just flows more easily. Internal engine changes over the years have been made to accommodate thinner viscosity oils. Different oil ring design and roller contact points for the valvetrain reduce a lot of sliding friction.

Engine oil prevents wear by separating moving parts from each other. The oil forms a boundary layer so the parts don’t touch but high spots on the parts can penetrate the oil film and cause wear. More precise tolerances and more accurate machining processes for engine parts help the thinner viscosity oil protect the parts.

0W-20 oil provides the best lubrication under all temperature conditions, reduces engine combustion chamber deposits, reduces vehicle emissions and improves fuel economy. That’s a lot to ask of engine oil, but 0W-20 synthetic is up to the task.

 

Thanks good info!