Drive line angle advice

Here you go

 

What is 5.59? Is the rear pinion flange 0.3 up zeroed from transfer case flange?

6.81 seems excessive for the 1st operating angle, or any operating angle for that matter.
Sure you're measuring correctly?
If the dealer said they heard it in you first shaft, maybe your carrier bearing is bad. Would explain why it was there before the lift.

 

Yeah im not sure if im measuring correctly. Any pointers ?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drive-line-angle-advice.698247/#post-24713960

 

Well I think I found out why I had the odd shaft angle amount. I think I turned the angle finder when I went from the TC to the 1st and 2nd shafts. Now the TC to Rear diff is accurate so im about even there. This means I need to drop the CB until I get them perfectly matched. Then I need to drop the shafts by .5 to 1 degree for lubrication and less wear. This sound right?

 

Oh sorry the rear pinion was 5.94 TC pinion was 5.59 which is .3 degrees difference

 

Ok now ive figured it out finally!!! The rear pinion angle is dead even with the TC pinion so im good there? The front drive shaft is 3.5 and the second is 5.5. I guess all I need to do is lower the CB bearing to even the angles. Then go lower or higher to .5 or 1 degree?

 

Where on the front and rear drive shafts should i measure my angles? I know my marking are crude, but should I put my angle finder on the green, yellow, or purple markings for the driveshaft angles?

 

My diagram assumed the use of a digital level, requiring the use of a square for the flanges.

If you have a digital cube or square you can use the Toyota T-SB instructions.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10162793-9999.pdf

 

Thank you.

So what I found is the following:
TC zeroed
Front shaft is 3 degrees
Rear shaft is 3.9 degrees (rezeroed here then took third measurement)
Diff angle 3.9 degrees

I don’t know why I am struggling to make this make sense. I am having a hard time with some of the A+B+C=0 math I have seen....and I am an engineer!—LOL
Anyways, does it seem that I need shims?

 

You are measuring "slopes" with a values in degrees, zeroed at the transfer case flange.
The A, B, C formulas are referring to "working or operating angles" of the actual u-joint; this is the difference between two adjacent "slopes".
For example:
Note: down/up slope is in relation to the transfer flange zero

Transfer-0 slope and 1st shaft-down slope 3= 3 degree working angle(A)

1st shaft-down slope 3 degrees and 2nd shaft-down slope 3.9 degrees= 0.9 degree working angle(B)

2nd shaft-down slope 3.9 degrees and pinion-down slope 3.9 degrees=0 degree working angle(C)

In the above, I assumed your pinion was a 3.9 degree down slope. I don't think 0 for a C working angle is probable. Could it be a 3.9 degree up slope for the pinion? If so, that would be a -7.8 degree working angle for C.
Up slope differences(the 2nd shaft and pinion) are inserted into the A,B,C formulas as a negative integer.

So, assuming now, the pinion was a 3.9 degree up slope, you have:
3 + 0.9 + (-7.8)=-3.9 deficit
A 4 degree pinion shim, thin side forward to correct, should give:
3 + 0.9 + (-3.8)=0.1 deficit...or thereabouts.

I say "thereabouts", because some slopes change slightly when you shim, so you'll have to re-evaluate after the shim.

 

thank you for spelling it out for me. I will check and see if the pinion is up or down angle—when the rain stops.

 

Ever get this figured out?

 

LOL no, not yet, I suck. Put my Mobtown sliders on though

 

Nice. Priorities. I have the same ones, love them.

Really debating on ordering a 3 degree shim kit, the carrier bearing drop hasn’t helped, nor has packing it with washers to adjust the angle.

 

I was thinking of doing the same. I think I need 2.8 degrees based on measurements so 3 should be GTG

 

Nice. I'm waiting on a cap to arrive then going to play around w/ weight in the back and once I'm consistent I need to decide if I need another leaf for the back, then sort out the shim. I'll have to deal with that rumble strip driving until then. Ordering the ECGS bearing in the mean time.

 

Okay, so after multiple tries here is what I got:
Zeroed angle measuring device on TC - 0*
Front DS = 3.5*
Rear DS = 3.5*
Pinion angle = 3.2* (I had the angle measured upside down so the pic is what it looked like—I believe it is saying -3.2*, correct?—screenshot of angle finder, mounted upside down, shown as seen. The left side of the block was rear, the right side pointing toward TC)

I measured several different times and results were within 0.2*.

Following the A+B+C method: I ‘think’ I am coming out with between +3.85* based on average of 4 measurements. Am I doing the math correctly? This would mean I should get a 4* shim?

 

If the 1st and 2nd shafts are both down, the B working angle is 0.

If the 2nd shaft is 3.5 down and pinion is 3.2 up, that's a -6.7 working angle for C.

Something's not right...