Rear Diff Lock Anytime Mod 3rd Gen DEVELOPMENT

Hi everyone,
I've just read through the whole thread and im very interested in it. I'm not able to give any advice when it comes to wiring and figuring how this all works but just want to say awesome work so far amd thanks to everyone that put time and money into this development.
I was also wondering if there is any new news on the development of the any time locker?

 

Count me in! I’ve been waiting for this mod..

 

Update 11/4/2020, (Updated OP)

Still no change for an elegant anytime locker for the OR/Pro.
However I have supported several people who have installed the OR/Pro locker in their SR/SR5/Sport/Limited, and have wired up the locker.

See Threads here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2017-e-locker.585669/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/factory-locker-install-on-16-sport.692802/
Thanks to @fuzzydoodle and @traumahawk for their assistance.​

 

Thanks for keeping us posted

 

Can anyone tell me what these wires are? Red= White= and blue= black=. Sorry in advance for my ignorance.

 

Black/blue is the lock indicator switch. When locked, it sends a ground signal to the 4wd ecu.

Red/white is the lock coil. It recieves a PWM current from the 4wd ecu to engage the locker.

 

To spoof the ECU, did you try a switch between the locked indicator and ECU to prevent a locked signal being sent to the ECU while powering the coil with your separate power source?

 

With a couple diodes & OEM wire connectors this would be a piece if cake to Do!

But honestly one of you computer aftermarket 'tuner' guys / company's could or should be able to create an algorithm to say umm push the diff lock button while at the same time tap the brake pedal 4 times kinda thing

It would be as simple as the throttle actuator box or the Speedo recalibrate already on the market.

 

In the end, as you describe is the only method that has been proved functional. As you say, you have to prevent the lock feedback signal reaching the ECU, because that will throw a code if the ECU isnt commanding the rear locked, but the computer receives the lock signal.

So far, all the installations/tests I have supported have used some power resistors to reduce the voltage to the coil to approximately the same level as the ECU applies... (it might be acceptable to skip this voltage reduction, but I don't have any proof that the coil is OK at 14V, and I am not trying it myself). And also add a flyback diode so the coil inductance doesn't damage the relay.

Never found a 'good' way to cancel ABS, etc... like the Toyota installation does. Never found an elegant way to activate the locker besides this method, which I dont consider very elegant...

 

[Edit to note, I have not read the OVTune or vFTuner threads in about 6 months, so my info may be out of date... but I dont think so]

OVTUNE implied he had access to the 4wd ECU and said he was looking into adding Anytime Lock, but then later on it seemed like he decided it was too risky (that is my interpretation at least)...

Keeping in mind that he has also just been driving in 4hi for hundreds of miles or more...

 

Ok so if I cut the wires and splice red to blue and black to white will this stop the error codes on start up? (That you get when disconnected) Simplest terms please I’m in construction lol. I’m only interested in function, my truck is used for Offroad only. That being said I’m not impressed with the factory locker in the first place it flashes a lot and doesn’t engage and disengage consistently. My 2 wire harrop in the front works flawlessly in comparison. Btw this thread is awesome but definitely above my head.

 

What are you trying to accomplish? If you do anything with the wiring the locker won't work at all.

To disable it and not get an error on the dash, you would need to put a dummy load (~5 ohm ~25-50 watt) in place of the locker coil. Across the red and white wires. You can leave the blue and black as is.

 

Stop the codes and control it manually. How do I create a dummy load? If I disconnect blue/black and leave red and white no codes on start up?

 

Do something like this

 

The red and white needs to be connected together with a 3 to 5 ohm resistor on the truck harness side so the 4wd ECU "sees" the locker exists.

The black and blue can be left disconnected so the truck always thinks the diff is unlocked.

You then power your locker via the red and white wires to the locker.

 

A dummy load is just a big resistor that has roughly the same resistance as the locker coil. You can buy them from any electronics seller, or Amazon even.

If you just disconnect that plug, I don't think it will give an error on startup, but the locker will also not work. The 4x4 ECU needs to see that switch when you try to engage the locker. Having said that, when do you get codes and flashing lights? Is it always on startup, or just when you try to enable the locker? Have you had a competent independent or off-road shop look at it? It could just be a bad sensor.


This post has all the info on what you would need to do to have full manual control.
@BigWhiteTRD beat me to it...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-gen-development.537810/page-4#post-17382498

Not hard, but lots of cutting and splicing to do.

You can *probably* skip the PWM circuit, but I personally don't think that's a good idea. In theory, you could also skip the PWM and just wire a switch from +12V to the red wire, and ground the white wire. You would need to disconnect the other plug to eliminate the errors in addition to putting a resistor in.

At some point when my backlog of projects has gotten smaller, I am still planning to look into making a locker anytime/full manual control module.

 

Thanks guy’s I’m running dual cases and I need to be able to lock the rear in 4hi to take advantage of the 4.70:1 gears in my reduction box. I’m sure you guy’s have gone over this a bunch of times already sorry about that. Ok so 3 ohm resistor in between red and white and ECU will think locker is there and not locked, that’s definitely the first step for me. If I axle swap even with Toyota hubs(abs sensor) this locker would still be an issue or is there another way to disconnect it?

 

So if you want the 4wd ECU to think there is a locker when there is not one hooked up to the ECU, just a resistor across the SL+ and SL- on the ECU side. If you never activate the locker (with the ECU) then it only takes a little resistor (low wattage)... If you could accidentally hit the locker button on the ECU, it needs to be a BIG (100W or bigger) resistor... You probably want to disconnect the roof locker button too.

Just disconnect the lock feedback signal, so the ECU never knows it is locked. But you will NOT have a dash lock signal, and ABS will not be disabled when locker is activated.

Does the schematic I posted make sense? If not, we need to focus on that more.

 

The schematic does make sense. I’ll dig into this more soon.