OFFICIAL XB LED HEADLIGHTS THREAD 16+

I took some time today to figure out how to use no fuse tap on the Gen 2 Morimotos for my SR5. Although I can't verify whether this result will function the same on the TRD, I did find a simple way to make it work on my rig by using an automotive relay.

I want to note that in my original post, I mentioned that on the Morimoto turn/DRL harness, the white wire was DRL and the yellow wire was turn. This should be REVERSED. I will be making an edit to that after posting this. Nothing would have gone catastrophically wrong if it was done like that, but the functions of the lines would have been reversed. I do apologize for this confusion for I wrote the post quite a while after I was fiddling with the unit.

To have the white band DRL on the SR5 without using the fuse tap, see the wiring diagram below. The new start sequence also works with this wiring when you turn the headlight stalk from the OFF to DRL position which is incredibly nice. I did try this without a relay, and like TRS said, it draws too much amperage, so the DRL will flicker and/or cutout. I'm still not sure on why the orange band works fine without one. Please use best practices if you perform this job such as soldering iron & heat shrink (not crimp connectors), unplugging the battery before touching wires, and making a plan BEFORE cutting. Good luck!


Here is a side-by-side between the standard Morimoto wiring without using the fuse-tap & the new relay circuit. The video takes place right after I switch the headlight stalk from OFF to DRL position (the DRL sequence is shortened because I had to run in front of the truck after I switched it on so half of it was missed).



I won't be running the white-band DRL because I prefer the orange, so this experiment was done using temporary spliced connections. I will not be able to post any more pictures or videos unfortunately. In the future, I would prefer Morimoto add one of these <$5 relays to their units and scrap the fuse tap entirely because hooking up a PWR and GND doesn't seem any harder than a fuse tap IMO. It's well worth it for the proper functionality and less headaches.

 

2019 TRD OR (not running the fuse tap, because when I did nothing worked right, I think the morimoto guy (travis) is mistaken regarding his post earlier on this page), everything works great, however am unable to toggle to sequential from standard when unplugging the plug for it. Not really a problem as I don't think I would run sequential, but anyone know why this may be?

So for info: When running the fuse tap the DRL would not come on with DRL switch, only headlights on, and also acted weird when turning the truck off, headlight startup sequence also did not work with the fuse tap.

When I removed the fuse tap everything works as intended aside from unable to toggle the sequentials on when unplugging the indicated cable per the instructions.

 

My SR i believe is the same as SR5 wiring and aesthetics... Mine worked fine, running, DRLs (Amber),H/L low and high, the only thing I needed the "DRL Tap/splitter for is the Dual Bright White DRLs...to use that I turn my lights to DRL Auto/Off then with the Tap ruining off of the EFI circuit, they power on and off automatically during the day for D/B DRL and I manuelly have to turn H/L on

Im very content on just running them on Auto and then I can turn them OFF when I want to blind someone with the Dual Bright



Im also running meso stage one rears ...FYI

again no issues and very happy with Gen 2

my post here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...led-projector-pics-2021-sr-4x4-v6-a-c.704743/


as an added thought, my 2021 did come with a few extra goodies i don't think older tacos had... the auto lights/brights with "Off" position for your stalk, dual zone ac/heat, full tow package and the larger "SR5" media screen...maybe my dealer special order, but i doubt that cheap sob lol

 

I love these things, plug and play on my 3rd gen OR. Looks amazing, upgrade in lighting over stock. Win across the board for me.

 

Hey, new here and have read a good bit of this thread and apologize if I'm being redundant. I've experienced an issue with the XB Gen2 in my '17 TRD OR. Noticed a light in my detached garage last night, minute later, no light. Out to look around, nothing left on, my assumption is the DRL turning on when the truck is off that others have described. When I installed I blew a fuse, and Travis at Morimoto informed me that the online install instructions are not correct for the new Gen2 XB's. He said due to the DRL draw all trim packages need to run the fuse relay, regardless of having the OEM DRL's and the 'OFF' position on the stalk.

After sharing the above experience with him he suggested that if the fuse relay location in the installation instructions isn't working, as in my case and others, to choose a fuse that gets 12V with the ignition on and no power when the ignition is off.

He could not recommend which fuse in the box that might be. I'm not well versed in vehicle electrical circuits, and am looking to see if anyone else has run the fuse relay to another location other than what is specified in the Morimoto online installation instructions?

 

TRD are different than SR/SR5, why would you use the EFI drl splitter ?

there is a dongle that is a direct connect for that, there is nothing to connect the dongle to

that may be a go forward problem, maybe other with TRD can chime in

 

The Morimoto support rep informed that all trim levels must use the DRL fuse relay with the newer Gen2 XB's. That's why I installed using the relay. I blew a low beam fuse without the relay installed.

 

I initially installed my 2nd gen lights with the fuse tap and experienced problems with the lights coming on while the truck was off, and the drl would stay on with the headlight switch in off mode. They work perfectly without the fuse tap. I think the look and output is great. However, mine are extremely shakey with every little bump in the road. Anyone else experience the same?

 

No shaking issues at all. Haven't heard that one before. One or both?

 

What suspension / tires are you running? If stiffer than stock, it's likely because the cutoff line is so sharp, that you notice every movement.

 

It’s both headlights. I am running Eibach suspension and BF Goodrich KO2 tires. It’s mainly on bumpy freeways when I find it most distracting.

 

2020 TRD OR: I did not use the included add a fuse relay option. Installation is solid no shaking and no random DRL turn on. I do not put my stalk light switch to the off position when I turn my truck off

 

2017 TRD-OR with Gen2 lights. No fuse tap used as well and everything, including DRL works as designed.

 

Appreciate the feedback. I'll remove the fuse relay and see how it goes. I'll post my result in case it might help anyone else that is in my situation. It'll be a couple days, in the midst of interior house painting this weekend.

 

I have the issue with the white DRL lights coming on by themselves too. Had the
cops come knocking on my door cause they saw the lights on and thought
someting fishy was going on. Any solutions?

 

I plugged mine into the A/C fuse.

Only issue I noticed, is if I turn the HVAC off completely (fan OFF) the DRL's turn off. Fine here in the winter (always on) but i usually turn it off when the windows are open. I guess i can just turn it on low. Too cold to screw with it any test anything else at the moment...

 

Sounds like it's just the sharpness of the new cutoff. HID retrofits would do the same thing. Would need to go softer suspension and passenger rated tires.

 

Thanks CanadaToy. I'll have to try that.

 

Review of the new v2.0 XBs posted in post #4548 here. Includes measured comparison to the v1.0 lights and the OEM LEDs.

 

I sent a video of it to the retrofitsource and they are sending out replacements. I can bounce the pattern up and down with just my finger on the adjustment screw. Hopefully the new ones are better.