Play in Carrier Bearing.

'06 4WD, AT, V-6 with 110,5xx miles. Previously, it lived on a farm with gravel road access. Plenty exposure to abrasive dust

Carrier bearing has about 1/4-1/2" movement in both vertical and horizontal directions. The 3 U-joint appear tight.

Normal?

No records of dealer or PO service on driveline.

Last October, pumped in a significant grease amount into the U-joints. I assume, little or no maintenance performed during PO possession.




I suspect I know the answer, but unable to locate "play" limit in the Repair Manual.

 

normal. That's why these center support bearings are junk!

 

Yes, they will have some play in them.
If the u-joint seems good and you don’t have and vibrations, you’re probably fine.

 

I have a low speed shudder which led me to start investigating the U-joints.

 

For what it’s worth I just replaced the carrier bearing on mine today. 165K the bearing itself was still healthy, but the rubber bushing surrounding it had failed to the point I had about 1inch of play in it. Also swapped out the center u-joint since it had to be taken apart to replace the bearing.

 

Check play in the physical splines from male to female end. Should be covered by a boot. Mines shot and it killed my carrier bearing.

 

My 2010 has about 205k Km or roughly 130k miles. There is quite a bit of play in the carrier bearing due to the rubber bushing being aged. When you changed yours, did you notice any difference with the new rubber bushing/bearing?

 

These bearings come "worn out" from the factory IMO. I'm amazed they work as well as they do with so much slop, but then again these trucks have always been plagued with DL problems. Luckily there are good options that just about anyone can use. Myself and others have threads discussing upgrades.

 

Care to provide a link or any other useful info..?

@Knute I replaced mine at roughly ~85k (cant remember exactly). Feel like I had maybe 1/2 inch of play. Was chasing some vibes and a new CB seemed to help.

 

here is the link to my thread. Search is your friend: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/iedls-and-xc-center-bearings-the-unexpurgated-story.545825/

 

The low speed shudder feels like a U-joint going out. Although, all have been checked with a dial mic. None have discernible play. The carrier bearing has a large amount of movement, at least 1/4". This seems to be magnitudes greater than acceptable shaft runout or U-joint play. Unable to find specs for replacement on the carrier bearing.

So, I'm thinking about replacing all U-joints (5) and carrier bearing. Everything will be apart, just as well do a complete service 1 time.

My dilemma is I also need replace the serp belt system. Both cost about the same, funds available to do 1. I'm trying to assess which is in the best condition, then do the work on the worst of the two. At the moment, I'm on the fence as to which needs the work most.

Dealer quoted over $1100 for the serp belt work. I'm sure the Prop shaft work will be in similar range. Hell, they wanted $600 for tranny fluid/filter change! No flush, unless you count flushing my wallet. I know work at dealers is expensive, but geesh........they could at least kiss me. This work needs to be done before a failure leaves me stranded or causes bigger repairs.

Thanks @MurderedTacoV2 and @SR-71A for the tips.


To those claiming the Toyota drive lines are junk...... The opinion doesn't matter, because that is the drive line on the truck.

 

I replaced my serp belt, three idler pulleys with Toyota parts, and pressed a new bearing into belt tensioner, last year. No where near US$1,100. Here is a good link if you are up for DIY:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arings-in-the-idler-tensioner-pulleys.480961/

 

Personally I would not mess with U-joints unless you know they are bad. Maybe keep a spare around in the toolbox, but otherwise just do the CB for now

 

The drivelines aren't junk. The CBs are. You can either suffer with it or fix it. All the information is out there.

 

Agree. Normally, I'd leave the U-joints alone.

Although, a questionable history is influencing my thinking.
1.) Lived on a farm with gravel road access. Gravel dust is highly abrasive. Farmers will maintain their implements and tractors, cars & trucks are 2ndary.
2.) When I lubed the U-joints in Oct '20, they took a large amount of grease. I had doubts if they had previous service.
3.) U-joints are not terribly expensive. If one fails and lets the prop shaft loose, then the resulting repair is much more expensive than a set of U-joints.
4.) Everything will be apart to replace the Carrier......so a little more work and a little more expense = peace of mind = priceless.

 

I read that particular thread.

There are a couple subtle design/function points about a prop shaft that are missed.

1.) The splines have a purpose. These allow the prop shaft (PS) to extend/retract as the PS changes length with the axle movement. So, some lubrication is required in the splines.
2.) The carrier bearing supports the PS, not the other way around. The carrier bearing needs to be a wider than the seat on the PS. This allows the PS to remain supported as the splines extend/retract with the axle movement.


Thanks. I will "suffer" with the current system on the truck.

 

the rubber of the replacement was certainly better condition. Dealer wanted almost $300 for the factory part. I went with Spicer for $85. The squeak is gone, and a minor vibration that was barely noticeable, I had actually attributed it to tire wear, disappeared as well.

 

Pretty standard stuff here. OE carrier bearing is junk. No surprise there. There is notable slop in the carrier bearing when you move it up and down. No surprise there. There is a shudder at low speeds and somewhat above mild take offs.

Replace it with a better unit and move on with life.

Myself and others have made threads regarding the issue and upgrades/ alternatives available for the OE "center retainer" (I'm not even going to call it a carrier bearing because the OE unit does a garbage job in doing even that).