1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

DIY: Replacing the Bearings in the Idler & Tensioner Pulleys

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Chuy, Mar 15, 2017.

  1. Mar 15, 2017 at 2:06 PM
    #1
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    Replacing the bearings in the idler pulleys and tensioner pulley will save you a little $$ and is environment friendly. Unfortunately, Toyota does not sell replacement bearings; you have to buy the pulley with an installed bearing, or for the tensioner, you are forced to purchase the entire assembly. On top of that Toyota uses proprietary sized bearings in the idler pulleys. But, the bearings can be replaced ...

    Before replacing the bearings, inspect the OEM pulleys and tensioner for damage as they may indeed require a whole unit replacement. If OK, be sure to clean the backside where dirt/grime may have accumulated. The pulleys appear to be sprayed with a rust inhibitor as they are ferrous and none of mine had any rust. So, be careful using a wire brush. You can always spray paint them.

    Pic provided by @Sandman614 on this thread:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-tensioner-arm-pulley.459336/

    Best pulley install how-to site I could find (will post a TW site if someone finds it):
    http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...154-idler-pulley-bearing-failure-what-do.html

    Tensioner Pulley Bearing - This is the easiest bearing to replace because the bearing is readily available - the size is 17X40X17.5 (ID X OD X Width). The OEM bearing was an NSK; I replaced it with a Nachi 5203-2NS (this is an obsolete suffix but there are still bearings out there as such; the new suffix is 2NSL). Toyota does not give bolt torque specs; I used 30 ft/lbs, and remember, the bolt is reverse-threaded. @blazze2005 offered 39 ft/lbs as the torque setting based on estimates provided by other TW members.

    Some have used the pulley listed for the #1 idler (i.e. Gates 36174) to replace the tensioner pulley. They have found the #1 idler bearing is wider than the tensioner bearing and, hence, the OEM bolt threads in less. There is a risk of stripped threads when torquing the OEM bolt to spec when it has less threads to engage. I found it a challenge locating a longer reverse-threaded bolt. Belmetric.com sells some; I've forgotten length of bolt, and pitch.

    Note (4/2/18): A member in the FJ forums asked if a Febest pulley he saw might be a replacement for the tensioner pulley - indeed, I believe it will. I bought one, part # 0187-GRJ200. I have not had the opportunity to install it, but the bearing is the same size as OEM. The issue will be quality; it is made in China and the bearing has no brand markings - an indication of a low quality bearing.

    I4 engine - Per @kidthatsirish # 16603-75010 (pulley and bearing) replaces the tensioner pulley/bearing on the I4 engine. This part # crosses into 0888-B14 for the Febest part #.

    Tensioner pulley on the V6 with OEM bearing pressed out, and pressed in.
    ... ...


    Idler Pulley #2 Bearings - The idler #2 pulleys are next to the power steering and the alternator. The OEM bearings are Koyo and are sized 10X42X13. I could not find anyone that sells these sized bearings. It is best replaced with a 15X42X13 bearing, a common size. You will need an adapter to reduce the 15mm ID to 10mm. I could not find a one-piece adapter so I purchased an insert and installed a 1mm wide stainless 10mm ID washer in the rear, where the inner race makes contact with the engine block. I replaced one pulley bearing with SKF 6302-2RS-C3 and the other with a Nachi 6302-2NSE-C3. The Nachi inner race is a bit wider and you may not need the washer, but I used one anyways. I bought two different bearings just to see which one lasts longer.

    Note: If you enter keyword "6303RMX" into eBay or Amazon, you will see the availability of OEM size bearings - 10X42X13. "6303RMX" is stamped on the OEM idler #2 bearings. I have strong doubts about these being quality bearings, including the Koyo bearings labeled as being made in Japan because this bearing is not currently found in Koyo's catalog. In June 2018, I emailed Koyo and asked if they were still making bearings of this size. Their response, "Part number 6302 RMX is the Koyo part number for a bearing closure (seal) only."

    Note (12/19/18): I noticed a new bearing on the market listing a direct replacement bearing for the Idler Pully #2. It is from a Chinese bearing company - Toprol, manufactured by Zhengzhou LTD. The part # is 6302RMX - no surprise here. While still a Chinese manufacturer, I like that they don't pretend to be Koyo; the bearing can be found on Ebay and Amazon and is priced under $11.

    Idler Pulley #1 Bearing - This pulley is a double wide bearing design and is next to the AC compressor. The pulley is marked "DOUBLE" but the OEM bearing has no manufacturer markings. The bearing size is 10X42X26. I could not find any 26mm wide bearing in inventory anywhere. So, I used two 15X42X13 bearings - SKF 6302-2RS. I inserted a 25mm long reducer through the inner races, and used a 1mm washer, as above.

    This bearing also replaces the bearing in the one idler pulley on the I4 engine.

    "Double" pulley with the 2 bearings and reducer pressed in.


    TRD Supercharger - The following is trusted but unconfirmed info from another thread pertaining to the bearings used on a TRD supercharger (see Post #43). The supercharger tensioner pulley and two small pulleys near the supercharger have 6303-2RS bearings. The bracket in front of idlers # 1 and #2 on the alternator side has two different sized bearings: the grooved pulley has a 6303-2RS bearing and the smooth pulley has a 6203 bearing. These are the sizes normally associated with these bearing #s:
    6203 - 17 x 40 x 12 (ID X OD X Width)
    6303 - 17 x 47 x 14

    Aftermarket Pulleys -
    If you already have an aftermarket pulley and didn't keep the OEM pulleys, you can replace the bearings in those. Check the side markings for the correct bearing type; most will be marked 6203, and may be sized 17X40X12. (I looked at a Gates pulley for Idler #1; it is marked 5203X2 and measured 17X40X24, an uncommon size. As I did with the OEM Idler #1 bearing; consider using two bearings, in this case 17X40X12.)

    Pressing a bearing - You can press out a bearing at the centerpoint, or inner race. However, when pressing it back in, press it from the outer edge, or the outside race. Pressing it in from the middle may damage the bearings/race. Except for pressing the inserts; for those, you hold the inner race [with a socket] while pressing in the insert. Because of the tensioner & Idler #1 pulley designs, you can use the old bearing to press in the new one. However, use a wide enough washer to cover the outside race. For the idler #2 pulleys, use a washer with 40-41.5mm OD so it catches the outside edge of the outer race but doesn't bind in the pulley.

    Bearings - I've listed some of the bearing part #s above. Stick with reputable brands - from Japan: Koyo, Nachi, NSK, NTN; from Germany: FAG; from Sweden: SKF. I would avoid Chinese bearings. VXB is a large bearing vendor on Amazon and they are a distributor for Nachi bearings, but the VXB-branded bearings have low reviews. Whichever brand you choose, get the waterproof version; it will have a plastic/rubber siding to protect the bearings. Most with a metal siding are dust proof, but not waterproof.

    Old bearings - tensioner; Idler #2's; and Idler #1.


    Bushing Adapter/Insert - These reduce the bearing's 15mm ID to 10mm. They are needed to center the pulley when bolting it to the engine. The oil filled bushings are more affordable vs the steel ones - part# BNZ10-15-10 ($2.5) for oil filled; part# IRT1012-1 ($7) for steel. I'm using oil filled but got one steel for comparison. The long one for the double bearing is part# IRT1025-1 ($8 & 25.5mm long); this is steel and I purchased it because an available oil filled was only 20mm long.

    Nonmenclature - Some of the bearing physical characteristics are identified by the bearing type. Most will have 4 numbers, e.g. 6302
    6 - 1st digit identifies bearing type. 4-double row; 5-thrust ball; 6-single row deep groove; 7-single row angular contact.
    3 - 2nd digit identifies robustness. 2-light; 3-medium; 4-heavy.
    0 - 3rd & 4th digits identify ID. Multiply these two #s by 5. Except: 00-10mm; 01-12mm; 02-15mm; 03-17mm. Weird, right?
    2 - " "
    More info here:
    http://readtoknowfirst.blogspot.com/2012/01/bearing-nomenclature.html

    I bought most of my bearings and reducers from 123Bearing (HQ France). Quality Bearings Online (HQ in UK) is a vendor I discovered subsequently and they appear to have most pieces in stock. Total pricing for bearings, reducers and shipping, but not counting the 10mm washers, was about $85.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
  2. Mar 15, 2017 at 7:43 PM
    #2
    blazze2005

    blazze2005 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Member:
    #29594
    Messages:
    971
    Gender:
    Male
    South Jersey
    Vehicle:
    05 Tacoma Pre-Runner Sport
    Fuel Off-Road Octane Wheels,Yokohama Geolander ATS 265/65/17.Grillcraft,Borla Exhaust,Truxedo Lo Pro Tonneau Cover,Pop n Lock Tailgate Security,Custom Wet Okle TRD Seat Covers,Catch-All Matts,Gatorback Belt,Shorty Antenna,Toyota Bed Matt,Sirius Radio,Vent Sades,20% Lumar Window Tint
    Excellent write up...I would just like to add that the correct torque on the tensioner pulley is 39 ft. pounds 27 ft. pounds would be for the bolts that hold the tensioner assembly to the block. If you buy a new tensioner assembly from toyota and test what they set the torque at...it's at 39ft. pounds. It took me a while but I finally found a thread where this was tested a couple times.
     
    Freeheelbillie and JDEK like this.
  3. Mar 15, 2017 at 9:12 PM
    #3
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    Alrighty, I'll add the 39 ft lbs as a possible setting. Thanks.
     
  4. Mar 15, 2017 at 11:22 PM
    #4
    FARNORCAL

    FARNORCAL Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    Member:
    #24923
    Messages:
    761
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ryan
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma4x4 DC LB Silver TRD Sport
    SEE BUILD
    Great write up
     
  5. Mar 16, 2017 at 8:57 AM
    #5
    DallasTX

    DallasTX Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2017
    Member:
    #211463
    Messages:
    153
    Vehicle:
    2015 4x4 AC
    Thanks for this write up. I need to replace the bearing in one of the timimg belt pulleys on my '92 and this thread gives me a great starting point.
     
  6. May 4, 2017 at 10:15 AM
    #6
    grave

    grave Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2017
    Member:
    #218092
    Messages:
    17
    is there a special tool needed for pressing in the new bearings? or is there an easy DIY way to do it? what about pressing them out, is it easy to damage the pulleys if you do it wrong? i've never done it before so it scares me, but the fact that new bearings are a fraction of the cost of new pulleys would make my wife very happy.
     
  7. May 4, 2017 at 3:37 PM
    #7
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Member:
    #32477
    Messages:
    2,534
    Gender:
    Male
    N of Mex-S of Canada-E of LA-W of NC
    Vehicle:
    '15 Tacoma PreRunner V6 SR5 Auto

    youtube.com
     
  8. May 5, 2017 at 7:11 PM
    #8
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    A 12+ ton press works the best. You might be able to use a threaded rod and coupling nut with a combination of washers and cups. A C-clamp used to remove ball joints might also work; you can borrow these free from auto part's stores' loan a tool program.
     
  9. May 8, 2017 at 3:17 PM
    #9
    grave

    grave Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2017
    Member:
    #218092
    Messages:
    17
    is there any downside to his solution for the double wide bearing? it seems like buying two bearings, a washer, and a reducer is a lot more that could malfunction than just spending a little extra for an entire pulley. thoughts?
     
  10. May 16, 2017 at 2:45 PM
    #10
    grave

    grave Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2017
    Member:
    #218092
    Messages:
    17
    thanks to the write ups on this and a couple other forums i was able to successfully swap out my pulleys last weekend. i opted to purchase new OEM #1 and #2 pulleys because i didn't feel comfortable having extra moving parts where there should be just one (and i have a dealership hookup), but i did pick up a replacement bearing for the tensioner pulley and my motor sounds much better. thanks again, TW!
     
  11. May 16, 2017 at 3:13 PM
    #11
    topcathr

    topcathr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Member:
    #28801
    Messages:
    447
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2015 limited
    thanks for the write up
     
  12. Jul 7, 2017 at 8:43 AM
    #12
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2009
    Member:
    #18467
    Messages:
    5,669
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steven
    DFW, Tx.
    Vehicle:
    09 Double Cab TRD Sport 4x4
    This writeup really helped me out. Just wanted to say thanks!
     
  13. Mar 7, 2018 at 3:57 AM
    #13
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2018
    Member:
    #246042
    Messages:
    633
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    South Charlotte, NC
    Vehicle:
    2005 Speedway Blue Tacoma AC V6 TRD Off Road 4x4
    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Thanks for writing this up. Does the part number for the tension pulley you listed (16603-75010) also fit the v6? When I search Toyota parts the fitment only lists the I4 variant. If not do you know of what it is for the pulley only?
     
  14. Mar 7, 2018 at 12:18 PM
    #14
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    @Benny123 To my knowledge, no one makes a replacement Tensioner pulley/bearing combo for the V6 4.0 engines. Your choices are a new assembly or bearing replacement (or salvage yard). Some have fitted the pulley from the #1 idler (Gates 36174) but the bearing is wider and reduces the # of threads engaged by the idler bolt. Because that bolt is reverse threaded, finding a longer one is not easy.
     
  15. Apr 2, 2018 at 11:04 PM
    #15
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    It appears Febest part # 0187-GRJ200 is a direct replacement tensioner pulley. I have not had the opportunity to install it, but the bearing and outside dimensions of the pulley match OEM. The issue will be quality; it is made in China and the bearing has no markings - an indication of a low quality bearing. It was $26 on Amazon. For that price you can get a good quality bearing to replace OEM. But, if your pulley is shot; this will be a good option.
    @Benny123
     
    Benny123 likes this.
  16. Apr 3, 2018 at 4:11 AM
    #16
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2018
    Member:
    #246042
    Messages:
    633
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    South Charlotte, NC
    Vehicle:
    2005 Speedway Blue Tacoma AC V6 TRD Off Road 4x4
    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Thank you for this. I have been racking my brain trying to find this. I had bought a cheap $30 tensioner assembly from ebay and tried that one, and it squealed louder than the original (inadvised) . I suspect this will help thousands of Taco owners.

    FWIW I used a couple Febest pulleys in my 4runner and they were perfect. Time will tell how long this lasts.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  17. Apr 7, 2018 at 12:12 PM
    #17
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2018
    Member:
    #246042
    Messages:
    633
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    South Charlotte, NC
    Vehicle:
    2005 Speedway Blue Tacoma AC V6 TRD Off Road 4x4
    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Replaced them with the febest tensioner pulley. Fits perfect, appears the same and is quiet. OEM top, new bottom. Thanks @ChuyIMG_0068.jpg IMG_0069.jpg
     
  18. Apr 8, 2018 at 5:33 PM
    #18
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    @Benny123
    Excellent; thanks for posting. I have very little faith in the Chinese bearing, but should give at least a couple years of service life. I would clean up the OEM pulley and replace the bearing with a good quality one.
     
  19. Jun 3, 2018 at 2:22 PM
    #19
    1largemouth

    1largemouth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Member:
    #181964
    Messages:
    130
    Gender:
    Male
    Martinez
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma
    #2 idlers, 6302RMX Koyo, no bushing needed
     
    07 sport 4x4 likes this.
  20. Jun 4, 2018 at 2:37 AM
    #20
    Chuy

    Chuy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2008
    Member:
    #8328
    Messages:
    1,731
    Gender:
    Male
    Lakeside, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 V6 DCLB 4X4 Sp
    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
To Top