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Wiring led in lower console

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by theolee, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. Mar 13, 2021 at 8:33 PM
    #21
    theolee

    theolee [OP] www.nickleecreations.com

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    No resistor. Just straight wired. Do you recommend a resistor for this one and all future LEDs? I figured they were 12v so I wouldn't need a relay etc.
     
    DG92071 likes this.
  2. Mar 13, 2021 at 8:46 PM
    #22
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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    Addind a resistor in series will make the LED dimmer. If there was a visible resistor you could connect in parallel and it would make it brighter.

    On a side note, the LEDs that I embed in the TRD shift knob are 3.3V so I have to add a resistor inline which gives me flexibility of how bright I want them.
     
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  3. Mar 13, 2021 at 9:00 PM
    #23
    theolee

    theolee [OP] www.nickleecreations.com

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    Got it, good to know. The one I installed is 3-40lm. I wasn't expecting a search light but not that dim either lol.

    When I make my way to the puddle lights, using the led you used. Are they bright enough on their own?
     
  4. Mar 13, 2021 at 9:10 PM
    #24
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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    The Eagle Eye type I used are quite bright but not blinding. I'm very impressed with how much they illuminate the footwell area as well. I also installed the dimmer module inline from Oznium.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2021
    theolee[OP] likes this.
  5. Mar 13, 2021 at 11:04 PM
    #25
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Pop out the HVAC controls. One of the 2 plugs has the green and green/white wires right there above your center console location. Posi-taps are less intrusive to the wires since they just poke a pin hole in the insulation rather than cutting it as t-taps do but I went ahead with the t-taps since I had them but used my strippers to separate the insulation so they would seat the wires with less stress on the wire.
     
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  6. Mar 13, 2021 at 11:14 PM
    #26
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    I cut out the 4-switch + 2-power port area and replaced it with a 7-switch panel as well as another 4-switch panel in the cubby. All use that pair of taps for illumination/dimming. However, I routinely increase the resistance to each led to make them dimmer to begin with since most aftermarket switches come way brighter than the stock switches.
     
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  7. Mar 13, 2021 at 11:15 PM
    #27
    theolee

    theolee [OP] www.nickleecreations.com

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    Ya, its either going to be that or the hazard/clock. I currently have a harness connected to the HVAC for the HVAC gen swap and I really do not want to mess with it because of how much of a pain in the ass the harness was to make lol.

    20210304_134114.jpg

    I used the ugly clunky ttaps today too. It was also all I had but I just ordered these for the doors and console. Way easier and cleaner. I'll check out the positaps though. :thumbsup:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/284123761552

    Im investigating if I'll need to do an add a fuse for the doors..
     
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  8. Mar 14, 2021 at 4:50 AM
    #28
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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  9. Mar 14, 2021 at 3:39 PM
    #29
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Where did you tap the dome? Did you go all the way to the dome or were you able to tap in the footwell? I was looking for that for similar lights and eventually puddle lights.
     
  10. Mar 14, 2021 at 4:19 PM
    #30
    Caboose69

    Caboose69 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, please!!
     
  11. Mar 14, 2021 at 4:25 PM
    #31
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    I would not regard the dimmer circuit as a “lighting” one such as the dome or map lights. Treat it with caution. Fucking things up gets expensive quick. If you don’t need dimming then use a fuse tap for 12V+, a chassis ground and a resistor to set brightness unless you know it doesn’t need one. If it turns out to be too bright measure the current to get the right wattage for the resistor and do some math to pick a reasonable resistance or use a pot.
     
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  12. Mar 14, 2021 at 5:49 PM
    #32
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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    On the 3rd Gen there is a wire harness that goes up the LS pillar to the roof. Midway there is a connection where the upper and lower wire harnesses come together. I connected a module from DSIM that parallels from there and provides a + connection to add extra lighting from the dome light circuit.
     
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  13. Mar 14, 2021 at 5:57 PM
    #33
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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    Please elaborate on your request.
     
  14. Mar 14, 2021 at 7:22 PM
    #34
    theolee

    theolee [OP] www.nickleecreations.com

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  15. Mar 14, 2021 at 9:59 PM
    #35
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Ah link me to the module? 2nd gen is similar I wonder if it would work. I imagine you may be able to tap but this sounds even better
     
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  16. Mar 14, 2021 at 10:01 PM
    #36
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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  17. Mar 14, 2021 at 10:30 PM
    #37
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
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  18. Mar 14, 2021 at 10:37 PM
    #38
    theolee

    theolee [OP] www.nickleecreations.com

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    Hey Robert, are you planning on doing puddle lights or the foot well? Either way, if you buy the module, let me know if it works out ya? :)

    --------

    On another note, I purchased the eagle eye LEDs but I feel like a LED strip would allow the doors to close better. Can anyone recommend a quality one?
     
  19. Mar 14, 2021 at 10:50 PM
    #39
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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    The Eagle Eye LEDs are flush mount. They only protrude maybe 1/16" inch from the mounting surface.

    IMG_20200927_1945337.jpg
    IMG_20200927_1945184label.jpg
    IMG_20200905_1351570.jpg
    IMG_20200621_1349401.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2021
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  20. Mar 14, 2021 at 11:49 PM
    #40
    theolee

    theolee [OP] www.nickleecreations.com

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    Right on I see. The clearance under the door panel is slim to none lol
     

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