Dometic Hardwire Kit Install - In Bed Side Pocket Above Wheel Well - 2nd Gen AC

Has anyone else installed the Dometic hardwire kit (or any switch panel) in the bed side pocket above the wheel well ('07 AC here)



I'm looking to install it there for our Dometic

$1,253 Dometic CFX 95DZW 12v Electric Powered Portable Cooler, Fridge Freezer

CFX95DZW. I've searched this site and all over the internet and haven't really found any wiring installs (Dometic hardwire kit or otherwise) in that location...

Wondering where to source material for mounting the outlet...Any advice on that and wiring to the main battery would be greatly appreciated!

I'm thinking of mounting the outlet flush on some kind of material so that it's not sticking out into the bed...and wires will be tucked behind the panel...

Cross-posted in the Dometic CFX3 Mega thread...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-dometic-cfx3-mega-thread.647777/page-27#post-25388840

Wondering if it would be better to go with PVC, ABS or something else...1/8" or 1/4"?

Maybe something like this would work:

$14 Install Bay 89-00-9031 ABS Plastic 12 X 12 X 1/8"

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-...E7QNR82P253X&refRID=YGTBHNPJE7QNR82P253X&th=1

 

Certainly doable. Weatherproofing would be key of course. Not sure of the waterproofness of the Dometic outlet. You might take a look at a Blue Sea outlet. 1/8" HDPE would be a good "structural" plastic choice. Grab the spec for you fridge and size wire accordingly. My guess is it is designed so it can be run off a cigarette lighter which are typically 10A. Google up a wire size calculator like https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html and plug in your numbers. Decide if you want to power the outlet via a relay - probably a good idea - and put an appropriate fuse toward the battery end of the pwr.

 

Thanks for the info, @MR5X5 I forgot to mention that we've got a bed cap, so I think it should be weatherproof from the inside...

I bought a 12" x 12" x 1/8" piece of ABS off Amazon last night:

$14 Install Bay 89-00-9031 ABS Plastic 12 X 12 X 1/8"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007WTF02/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8

Thanks for confirming that the 1/8" thickness will suffice...I was going back and forth between 1/4" and 1/8" and ultimately decided that the 1/4" might be overkill and harder to cut.

The Dometic kit comes with 20' of 10AWG cable with eyelets to connect straight to the battery and a 15A blade fuse in line...it also looks like there is a fuse in the outlet box...



Ultimately, I would like a relay switch in the cab and/or in the bed, and I would like to figure out how to do that. So, if anyone has any specific tips, pics, etc. to make that happen, I would certainly appreciate it! I'm very new to electrical and can use all of the help I can get. At this point, though, I think I'm just going to wire it straight to the starter battery so I can just get the fridge up and running.

Once that's done, I'm going to look into relay switches, a dual battery and possibly a solar panel setup...with appropriate switches in cab and/or elsewhere.

I was hoping to mount the Dometic housing on the right side of the bed, but Dometic recommends putting it on the same side as the battery so that the cable will reach. In that case, I'll probably have to reverse the lids/doors on the fridge so that they open to the inside of the bed while the controls face the tailgate...

Thanks again for the advice, @MR5X5

 

Anytime. If I read things correctly that fridge is 65Watts. So at 12 Vdc you're looking at 5+Amps. 10 gauge is way more than enough, could go 12 ga no problem if you wanted. Switches and relays are pretty straight forward. Google it up. Switch - low current - activates the relay to drive high current. Basically lets you avoid running heavy wire everywhere and having to buy heavy switches etc... You can buy relays as singles and screw them to the fender well, or better yet, buy a bank of them and start adding accessories like a mad man!

 

Thanks again for the advice...I'm definitely going to have to read up on the switch / relay concept...

 

Looking ahead at next level stuff...

Because the Dometic (and most "electric coolers") can run on AC and DC (CFX3 issues notwithstanding), I am thinking of adding an AC port on the interior bed switch / 12v DC panel connected an AC receptacle on the outside of the truck...so that we don't have to run an extension cord through the bed cap window...

Something like the following:



Seems like it should be pretty strait forward wiring between the receptacle and the outlet...Any recs on wire sizing between the two? Also, potential mounting locations for the receptacle on the exterior of the vehicle?

$20 Journeyman-Pro 5279 15 Amp 120-125 Volt, NEMA 5-15 Flanged Outlet, Black Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade Plug Charger Receptacle (w/ Front & Back Covers)

https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-P...JJT7N2JG5MH2KWARY&refRID=R8YJJT7N2JG5MH2KWARY

$19 Journeyman-Pro 5278 15 Amp 125 Volt, Flanged Inlet, Black Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade, Nema 5-15 (with Cover/Cap)

https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-P...JJT7N2JG5MH2KWARY&refRID=R8YJJT7N2JG5MH2KWARY

And, finally, possibly having a panel like the following (with switch, voltmeter, dual usb ports and an extra 12v outlet) spliced into the Dometic-supplied 10AWG cable:

 

Not following. What is the 120Vac for? What is supplying it - need an inverter/source somewhere. FWIW I've chosen to stick with 12Vdc only. At least for now...

 

@plurpimpin Understood. Thanks for walking me through the logic. ABS piece just showed up today...It's been about 30 degrees and snowing, so I've been avoiding going outside...that's why I've been trying to get as much info as possible via this forum...So, when I do get out there, I've got an idea of what I'm doing.

As far as wiring, how did you go about that?

Did you drill a hole into the pocket from the outside or from the inside?

Any tips on running the wires to the battery?

Also, wondering if we can take this over to a dedicated thread so the info doesn't get lost for future installers....

Here is a link to that thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-wheel-well-2nd-gen-ac.713751/#post-25396822



plurpimpin said: ↑
I riveted the pocket in because the clips couldn’t hold it with all the added weight of the outlets and wires.

Then I tried double stick tape when that didn’t work. Then I tried to do rivet nuts in the bed so the bolts would hold the panel and pocket on but the cutout in the bed is so large in relation to the pocket that there wasn’t enough bed material for the rivet nuts to grip but there was just enough for 1/8” rivets so that’s why it’s riveted in and then the rivet nuts are installed around the flange on the pocket.

you’re installing fewer outlets so extra weight might not be as much of a problem. Midaswell try the clips first

as for outlet location I have a wedge camper and mostly installed the outlets to use when camping so no problem accessing them. Plus my side panels open so I can just reach the panel through there from the outside.

 

@MR5X5 The 120Vac would be to plug the fridge (which is in the bed of the truck - fridge weighs 70+ lbs. empty...don't want to take it out) into a 120 outlet in a garage or somewhere like that. I'll give a scenario: We're going to drive from Flagstaff to Prescott, Phoenix or somewhere else the following day. We plug the Dometic in to the 120vac outlet in our carport the night before to pre-cool the unit...so it's not running off our battery.

We don't want to have to crack the rear window on the Leer cap to run an extension cord to the fridge. If there is an exterior mounted 120vac plug on the exterior of the truck somewhere that's connected to a 120vac receptacle on the interior bed switch panel, we can just plug the power cord from the Dometic to that outlet on the switch panel without having to run the cord through the rear window of the bed cap...More secure, cleaner set-up. Kind of like boat or RV shore power.

Next morning, unplug, drive to wherever, stop at store 2 hours away (cause there ain't no Costco in Flag ), load perishable / frozen items in fridge/freezer, don't worry about them melting while driving home!

 

@Naveronski dragging this post over here, so it's all together...hope you don't mind...I'm afraid this info would get lost in that Mega thread.

Thanks for the heads up on the no name stuff. I'll look for better quality. I really only need/want a voltmeter, dual usb port and a switch.

The issue with Dometic appears to only be on the CFX3s. Fortunately, we have the previous model and @Dometic has confirmed that there are no issues with that one.

@Naveronski wrote: I have a very similar no-name panel installed in my truck. It works, but I'd do Blue Sea or something better next time. Fit/finish doesn't look great, the on/off button pops out all the time, rubber covers don't stay closed, etc. It's not worth removing, but don't feel like it was worth the $$ saved.
It also didn't come pre-wired, which would have been nice.

Also, @Dometic has talked about there being issues if both power cords are plugged in at once.

Geronimo1111 said: ↑
Looking ahead at next level stuff...

And, finally, possibly having a panel like the following (with switch, voltmeter, dual usb ports and an extra 12v outlet) spliced into the Dometic-supplied 10AWG cable:


Click to expand...

 

@Bastek cross-posting your response / recommendation on this dedicated thread so the info doesn't get lost. Thanks again.

Bastek wrote: Please note reviews on those cheap panels and switches. Not sure which one is it pictured here, but some (most) of them are NOT waterproof. Now , since you already have a socket (or couple) maybe this would be right for you

$24 Blue Sea Systems 4364-BSS Panel Acc H2O 2 Socket Blank
https://www.amazon.com/Exterior-Pan...gid=pla-897819994443&ref=&adgrpid=96944448634

Geronimo wrote: @Bastek thanks for the heads up...I will check the reviews. Description says it's waterproof...and we do have a Leer cap (so it will be "inside")...but who knows about the quality...I'm sure the Blue Sea is far superior...and I like the compactness of that product...thanks again for posting it up.

 

@Naveronski Just saw your comment on the other thread...re-posting it here for reference. I have not popped the cubby out yet...30 degrees out and has been snowing...only have a carport...getting as much info online while waiting for the weather to improve. Good to know there is a ton of room in there...

Geronimo1111 said: ↑
Has anyone else installed the Dometic hardwire kit in the bed side pocket above the wheel well ('07 AC here)



Not there specifically, but I ran air lines into the bed side. There is a ton of room inside the fender for wiring and not much else you have to compete with. Have you popped that cubby out and taken a look?

 

@Naveronski posting your comment here for reference. That Powerwerx store looks pretty solid on first glance.

Geronimo1111 said: ↑
Nice, @littlefish Now you've got me thinking about adding a double USB outlet, voltmeter and switch! I'm going to have to weigh location/convenience of mounting the panel where you did vs. the cubby...

If I were to add a USB outlet, voltmeter and switch, would I be able to splice them right onto the Dometic-supplied 10ga cable? Any tips, or ideas on that configuration?

@Naveronski wrote:

https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-4366-panel-circuit-breaker-usb-volt

No splicing.
Unit comes wired.
Add a 10ga hot wire to the battery (with inline fuse).
Ground to a frame bolt.
12v plug plugs into panel.

 

Ahh, right. Different weather than here; mid-70’s and rainy.
But yeah, check out how to remove it.

 

Update:

I've been thinking it over and got a chance to get outside in between snow storms to have a closer look. I think the cubby over the wheel well is going to be too hard to access.

Either one of the cubbies by the tailgate seems like it will work better. I see a few advantages for this location.

Six T30 bolts can be removed to take out the cubby completely. I can trace the outline of some ABS right off of that cubby and screw the ABS panel right back on the existing rivnuts. Because that space is larger, I'm thinking of going with 1/4" ABS instead of the 1/8"...might have to get longer bolts to go back into existing rivnuts...we'll see.

Looks like easy access to wiring from under the fender...location will be much more accessible and wont require any drilling into the bed liner. We can just set the cubby door aside in case we ever go back to stock (doubtful).



I seem to recall other wiring installs fishing wire up by driver's floor panel and going right into the grommet which goes in to the engine compartment...Any tips on that would be greatly appreciated while I continue to search for YT videos and other posts addressing that issue. Thanks for helping me think this project through before cutting...much better to do it with a team. Appreciate the camaraderie.

 

Just bought some cubbies from another member and he said they pop out but that I’d need some vhb (double sided tape) to make them stay put. If you want them removable then rivnuts in the bed and screws.

 

If it’s ultimately going into the bed, I wouldn’t worry about fishing the wire into the cab.

Unless I’m overlooking something.

 

How would I get the wiring direct to the battery? I haven't figured that out yet...

Is there a place to route it along the frame and right into the engine compartment near the battery?

 

Yes, basically just that. Start at battery, under fuse box to fire wall, down, along frame towards rear, going over the gas tank is a pain so good luck, then up into bedside.

edit: if you ever come to DFW, TX, I’ll show you lol.

 

Sounds easier than going through the cab! Maybe I'll cross over and install on the passenger side to avoid the gas tank...might need a little more cable than the kit provides (20')...but, for some reason, it feels like the panel should be on the passenger side. Thanks for the offer to show me! DFW sounds nice. Just flew through there once...Tasty burnt ends at Dickey's BBQ at DFW airport....