Dometic Hardwire Kit Install - In Bed Side Pocket Above Wheel Well - 2nd Gen AC

Going over the tank is definitely do-able, especially if you have a finite amount of wire to work with. Crossing over will take several feet.
Just be patient; you may discover a better route and have to undo a few minutes work, and that’s OK.

 

I ran #10 over the firewall and down outside the cab mounts and along the outside of the frame rail and rear cab mounts to stay away from the exhaust. For a compressor/tank in the bed wall rather than just power and mainly to put random added weight on the other side but it’s doable. Whatever/wherever you put it enclose it in loom. I use split loom and braided to allow multiple runs in the same split loom “conduit”.

 

Nice. @bagleboy Do you have pics of the install on your page?

Did you run the wire down the passenger side?

I was planning on using loom...I have some 3/8" I've been carting around for 20 years...but I think it's a bit narrow. The sheathed 10ga barely slides through...so, I'll probably go the next size up...1/2", I guess. Stuff is cheap at HF...

I didn't quite follow you when you wrote that you use split loom and braided to allow multiple runs...what's the braided? Is that the type of wire?

fwiw, I think I'm going to use a piece of wood for the panel instead of ABS...12" x 24" piece is close to $30...wood is cheap and if I screw it up, easy to do over...plus I figure the screws for the various outlets, etc. will bite better into wood than ABS...
Now, I've got to figure the AC wiring so I don't blow something up.

 

Just ordered the following to complete the install...coming on Sunday. May not need the extra 10awg, connectors and crimping tool, but I'd hate to be in the middle of the install and find out I need them...

Now, I've got to figure out where to install the AC shore power inlet receptacle on the exterior...

Any ideas?

 

@Dometic was kind enough to share the following video showing wiring from the bed to the engine compartment:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT-jcZ3EDH0

I'm probably going to go straight to the battery, but it would be cool to figure out how to install that aux fuse panel...that looks pretty sweet.

 

Braided is a type of loom. It expands and contracts to fit different sizes and numbers of wires but only so much so it too comes in different sizes. I use split loom as conduit and the braided to keep bundles in the same split loom distinct. Everything gets braided, only outside gets both unless it’s at risk from sharp edges to protect against rodents. In that cases as often as not I’ll zip tie a short piece of split loom to the sharp area. Use heat shrink to keep the braided loom from unraveling at the ends. There’s already a bundle crossing over the firewall so I followed it. Along the outside of the frame rail there are some predrilled holes and I used some of those to attach a few black nylon hose clamps to hold the split loom. It really depends on where you want things to go. I have both air lines and electrical on both sides so I’m not picky about either one. Obviously inside the frame would be preferable but I’m diffident about putting plastic close to the exhaust. Abs holds better than the same thickness of wood, especially if wet but t-nuts are nice for getting a flush install(like a nut and washer combined with the threaded portion being recesses in your panel and only a washer sticking out). Some loctite and you’re Golden.

 

No pics of that bundle, sorry. It’s just black frame with a black split loom so it didn’t seem worthy of documentation.

 

Dude, that's next level!

Good idea to zip tie the split loom in sharp areas...heat shrink the ends. Black nylon hose clamps... t-nuts and loctite....brilliant...was just thinking lock washers a minute ago, but I think I like the loctite idea better...

 

Before you go ahead with an aux panel you should definitely check out 2 threads. Tacozord’s thread is top notch.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/
And this one is packed with variations on that theme.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/show-off-your-aux-fuse-panels.308677/

 

You can get them without the locking teeth as well. The things are awesome. I’ve used the 1/2” version in 1” square stock steel to support wine racks on overhead rails holding 9 cases worth.

 

Dude what are you doing with that solid core 12/2? You realize that’s for residential AC wiring? It’s actually 3 wires in a strand, they don’t count the ground wire, just hot and neutral

 

Nice catch. I didn’t even look at that list.

 

I think he wants to wire up shore power, but 12 AWG residential wire is good for 20 amps at 120VAC, way overkill for the fridge. I'd think you can get by with 15 amp max, not sure what else "shore power" accessories OP would want to hook up to the outlet inside the cab. that 12 AWG wire is going to be difficult to route and wire in the truck.

 

In that case a pigtail might do the trick. A few feet with a 3-prong male end he can plug into an extension cord. Use the female end as a cover to keeps the prongs from getting bent.

 

OP, does your truck have the 7 pin towing connector?

 

Nice...but I'm a little confused...without the locking teeth, what holds them into the material?

 

Wiring up shore power...120vac receptacle somewhere on exterior of truck wired directly to 120vac outlet on interior panel...to plug fridge into when parked somewhere like our carport or anywhere else AC is available so we don't have to run it off our battery....but, that's why I'm posting everything here...to make sure I'm doing it correctly...and if not, hopefully someone will catch it and steer me in the right direction...more eyes the better and I appreciate your feedback.

 

@6 gearT444E appreciate your feedback...you are correct...we want to wire up shore power....specs on the outlet and receptacle say they will take 12awg max...I figured why not...the cable probably won't travel more than 6 feet max...and probably less than that...I don't see how that will be difficult to route...Maybe I am missing something. Please correct me if I'm wrong...I'm all ears... The outlet and receptacle are rated for 15 amps... So, do you think 12awg will be a problem? I get that, based on your comment, 12awg is rated for 20 amps and that may be overkill, but will it create any inefficiencies (other than being more expensive than 14 or 16 awg) in the system by having it oversized? Thanks for your input.

 

Just a flat four...whatcha thinkin?

 

@6 gearT444E ...I posted the following on the Dometic CFX3 Mega thread...and it was getting a little confusing having some posts here, there and on another thread...so, I tried to bring everyone's comments over here, but missed the following one where I asked for recs on wiring size...didn't get any responses until yours...I ended up purchasing similar products (outlet and receptacle) from another company due to the negative reviews on Journeyman's stuff with screws stripping out and caps not staying closed...So, just for reference, this is what I posted on the other thread:

Looking ahead at next level stuff...

Because the Dometic (and most "electric coolers") can run on AC and DC (CFX3 issues notwithstanding), I am thinking of adding an AC outlet on the interior bed electrical panel connected to an AC receptacle on the outside of the truck...so that we don't have to run an extension cord through the bed cap window...

Something like the following:



Seems like it should be pretty strait forward wiring between the receptacle and the outlet...Any recs on wire sizing between the two? Also, potential mounting locations for the receptacle on the exterior of the vehicle?