Let's see your FJ case swap

it would be nice if the OP could link all those posts in the first thread, this one is getting so long and shit gets buried in here haha

 

Haha it just shows dedication to the swap. I made it through 30 pages in about an hour or so earlier. One could easily read through this thread in a few hours and get all the info they need.

 

Great resources. Thanks dudes. Trying to build my library. Much appreciated!

 

I might be overdoing it then

 

I’ll be the first on that group buy if that’s real lol

 

My plan is to 3-D print my design and incorporate it into a slightly different harness than the ones most folks are using where the knob accepts a generic round switch. My challenge is finding a way to wire it the way I want to (using a relay instead of just one switch).

If anyone is interested I can send them the STL file to print it themselves

 

should be easy enough, have the switch on the shifter control a DPDT relay coil.

 

That is the current scheme. I want to incorporate a failsafe for the limit switches on the ADD if I can though. I'll PM you my attempt at a wiring diagram

 

This write up is really good but I think my switch is different. Can anyone help me figure out where I need to put my wires? I’m lost. I know 7, 8, 9, 10 will be regular 12v power and grounds. I will be splicing into my add wires. Ignore my writing it’s probably wrong

 

Definitely the same, it's very simple to not even think about it and wire up as follows:

Switch pin # - ADD side
1 - keyed +12V
2 - Red wire from ADD connector Pin 1
3 - Pink/Blue wire from ADD connector Pin 5
4 - Light Green wire from ADD connector Pin 6
5 - Black/White wire from ADD connector Pin 2
6- keyed +12V
7 - Light Green/Black wire from ADD connector Pin 3
8- keyed +12V
9 - Illumination Negative
10 - Illumination Positive

This is looking "into" the ADD connector for the pin designations.


For the illumination, you can either hook the negative up to ground and the positive to the tail circuit, you'll get LED to come on constant brightness when the headlight position is in the tail or headlight position.


OR

you can wire to the dimmer circuit to be able to dim the LED with the stock dimmer; in which case the "negative" circuit is any Green/White wire and the positive is the green wire, tap off the rheostat switch or any other illumination wire.

 

You are a life saver! It’s so simple now. Thanks for breaking it down. Especially with pics too lol

 

What may have confused you, I think on my drawing I have the up arrow designated as unlock and down as lock. I think those are reversed. So on my schematic, "up" position on the switch would be locked and vice versa. Really doesn't make a difference, if you want to press the switch "up" to lock the diff, just reverse the physical location of the switch from top to bottom, as they are symmetrical. The limit switches and motor polarity are correct so that's really what matters.

 

I had originally written this up assuming folks were cutting and capping and splicing into wires at the stock 4wd ECU, but for prerunners this isn't the case. So save the above post as it would be helpful with anyone that doesn't know which pins on the ADD connector will connect to the pins on the DPDT switch.

 

Yea that makes sense now. Ok I’ll get this wired up tomorrow. Is there any sort of audible click from the actuator fork to know if it works? I doubt I’ll hear it from the cab but ill be under the truck when I test it

 

it makes sort of a buzzing noise, you won't really hear a click. Not sure if you've already got the actuator bolted in the diff housing or not, but if you did it would be a good idea to have the front end jacked up when trying to shift in and out, otherwise if the clutch sleeve splines are not lined up to the stub shaft, it will not fully shift over.

 

Sup pat! Still thinking about Moab this summer?

Doing the 4WD swap? How's it going?

 

Gotcha. I have the front diff with actuator bolted on the truck but no axles or shaft is attached yet

 

all right so it's safe to assume that the add is an automatic disconnecting differential switch, but what is the purpose of having an such automatic disconnecting differential switch on the gear shift of the transfer case?

What does/will the switch do in reguards to the ADD system?

 

ok, if it doesn't engage fully (locked light on the switch), you'll likely need to rotate the passenger side gear shaft or front differential pinion to get the splines to line up.

 

I'm going to assume just simplicity of operation. Sort of like how the 1st gens have a 4wd switch on the shifter knob.