TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

URD Headers and URD tcai are in. The tcai was a complete pain. The fitment was what I like to describe it was total dogshit. But, it’s in. Tomorrow evening hptune is tentatively on the schedule @JustDSM Early May will finally bring my regear and cam gears.

 

Maybe not stripped. But they def weren't getting "tight" like the others did. Using my judgement I stopped cranking on them and called it good. Not gonna stress on it. It was on the 4 banger so that truck has a lot of other issues to worry about currently lol

 

Huh... That's odd. This story oddly reminds me of my oil pan and torquing them to spec on my LS2. (That was the first and last time I followed the book because I thought to myself, "hey, I've never done it before up to this point, let's try this for a change.")

This is why I advise against torque spec (unless dealing with critical internals) especially when dealing with aluminum parts or blocks, but no one ever wants to listen. They think I'm just that crazy old car dude who is just talking to hear his own voice.

"Oh he's crazy, that'll never happen to me because I'm doing it right. Torque spec is always the answer."

And that's where you're wrong there kiddo.

 

Also how many people have stripped the intercooler lid following the torque spec? Sucks but can't always rely on them..

 

Exactly. Aluminum is too soft and prone to stripping when tightening them to torque spec: "ugga ugga."

Ironically enough, I always just zap them on with my 18 volt Makita cordless impact until I see them stop, continue on the rest of them and then give them a small advance forward afterward with the gun as an insurance policy and I have NEVER had a problem with leakage or stripping issues. I use the gun for everything, I use it for literally everything I can fit a socket over, and I have yet to strip something with it after using it for an undefined amount of years, why, because I understand the limitations of what I am working on. It's a necessity when working on any modern day vehicle using dissimilar metals bolted together (which they all do now).

You HAVE to use your judgement, why, because 9/10 times the book will fail you. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when, and the guys who rely too heavily on data specs via FSM will be disappointed soon enough when they find that they broke a bolt or stripped some threads despite following it to the T.

The book is a guide, treat it as such. Be greater than the book. The ultimate FSM is you, the mechanic, and your better judgement to know better.

I really needed to get that off my chest. Not to you bro, but just in general.

 

Very well said. But you also forgot to mention that a good mechanic knows his tools. And you know that Makita. I don't use my impact enough to trust my finger on something like that. So I fuck it up the right way, listening to specs. LOL

 

Very much a "feel" thing. Being used to your tools and their capabilities, especially with power tools.

Then there's the school of hard knocks factor and the learning curve. Everyone strips or wrecks something at some point. Some of us learn from it better than others and some people are just naturals at things.

And then there's Murphy's Law and the universal constant that "Shit Happens" in which everything goes out the window.

 

Ok guys, I hate to be this guy, but I have used the search function for two days now and I can only find it referenced in one spot. The submersible fuel line upgrade when you install a new fuel pump. I am ordering the

$134 AEM 50-1200 E85 In-Tank Fuel Pump, Black, 4.055 x 1.535 x 1.535"es

AEM 50-1200 fuel pump to replace my DW 255. When I do this I was going to switch to the fancy line. The only one I can find reference anywhere is the one by Radium in the twin fuel pump setup @Flake Boost referenced of @Lucario Runner picture. I know there was a good amount of talk about it back in the day to use one of these nicer hoses rather than the standard Gates stuff that came in the URD fuel pump kit. Anyone remember that? Want to find it so I make sure I get the right size and length since what is referenced is for the dual pump setup and not just a single replacement setup. 5/16"x 5 1/2" Goodies Speed is what I have found Amazon. Want to make sure it will work before I order and then drop the tank. Going to be a quick install as I need to go to ND next weekend and my DW is starting to get noisy on start up. I really don't want to me in the middle of MT with a full tank and have it go out. Anyone that can think of where that was talked about? Any info would be greatly appreciated. And if it was talked about in last 30 pages, I am doubly sorry. I jumped forward since I have just been monitoring the discord lately. And been busy as !&@$

 

Here's a thread with info on it
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/improving-the-urd-fuel-pump-kit.308651/

 

After my rounds I can take a picture of the part number.

 

Look at summitracing.com for in-tank fuel line. That is were I bought mine from. I do not remember the length. I used the corrugated hose.

 

My $.02 regarding @mightytacoman -3 deg cam gears/sprockets.

Got them installed by @greenEFSI over the weekend. Since then, I've logged about 300+ highway and +50 miles city driving. My initial impressions that have stuck out:

1. Idle is smoother/quieter. At WOT, the exhaust tone did change as there's a slight buzz at the upper RPM range. The buzz is not annoying and doesn't happen unless the pedals to the metal.

2. Deacceleration: the truck is much more "coast-happy. Once I lift off the throttle, the truck feels like it coasts much easier and doesn't decelerate as rapidly. It's so noticeably different, that I thought I had cruise control on.

3. MPG :
~12mpg before cam gear (80/20 city/highway)
~13.2 mpg before cam gear (100% highway)
~14.3 mpg AFTER cam gear (100% highway)

I'm waiting to see fuel efficiency (post gears) with (80/20) mixed driving. Need to put miles on and cycle a few tanks of gas.

4. Any +HP? Butt-dyno reports positive results. But will strap it to the rollers soon.....

 

The coast happy factor that you describe is due to the fact that you are in essence eliminating the cams built in EGR function that they use by retarding them 3*

Makes sense what you describe. I never noticed the truck wanted to decelerate more under coast situations pre gearing, but I definitely believe you.

 

Thank you! Not sure why search failed me so badly. I suck at internet obviously.

 

Well.. I've had the truck back for a week or so now. Everything checks out good. New upper pan and starter are in. Solid motor mounts are the bees knees. Much better Throttle response. Just feels lively. Went out wheeling and camping this weekend and they felt great bombing the washes as well. Definitely more confident now. Also finally got around to installing my 2.5" pulley with the spacer I made up to clear the blower. Slapped on a new belt as well. All the changes at once has been an awesome improvement!

 

Submersible PTFE Fuel Tubing

• 20-0175 Submersible Fuel Tubing, 5/16in x 12.8in

 

easy button

 

Just tuned by @JustDSM you got mad skills man, much appreciated

 

Different truck now huh?

If I went back to stock I would probably hate it.

 

Did you get air fuel ratio sensor tuned or did you get tuned without it?