2006 2.7L base manual 2wd - engine pulsing / throbbing at 2000 rmp

Hello all,

current codes are:
P0016 (crankshaft position sensor (bank 1 , sensor A)*camshaft sensor related
P0335 ("""")
P0441 (emission)
P0455 (emission)

Experiencing an issue when accelerating past ~2000 rmp. Seems like to gas is not being injected, truck is fine from 1000-2000, almost shutters going through 2000-2300, then is fine anything higher. Same for all gears (5 speed).

These codes existed before the issue, or at least the issue is now much more noticeable.

Going to start by replacing camshaft position sensor, spark plugs, and purge valve.

Wondering if fuel pump related as am also having increased difficulty starting the truck. Cranking but no start, cycling the key, or waiting a few minutes between seems to help but is not smooth. Idle when engine getting to temp is also almost oscillating in nature, sounds like a small diesel. Idle is not constant, moving within about a 300rmp range until steady at operating temp. Steady when under load outside of 2000rmp.

When accelerating past the 2000 rpm, feels like engine has briefing stopped firing, causing truck to hobble / pulse through. No codes on misfire... When doing so also hearing metalic scratching/ scraping sound - hoping it is just coming from motor mount....

Truck drivers great at all other rpms, highway speeds ect.

I had replaced the alternator this year as over overcharging the battery (17v to my memory), so there is worry my sensors / ecu have been hurt by this

Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
S

 

Update:

I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor to no effect.

Disconnecting the battery for about ten minutes cleared the codes. Took it for a drive and now have the following

P0011, P0016, P0300->P0304.

The engine seems to be skipping at 2000 rpm (same as before change). hard to explain. Maybe timing chain is jumping?
Happens in every gear (haven't tried reverse happens in neutral).

Any recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
R

 

Its always recommended to fix the codes in the order they appear .

P0011 talks about a faulty camshaft position actuator solenoid and if you change your engine oil on a regular basis .
Not only can the solenoid go bad , but the wiring to the solenoids can also fail . I believe these solenoids have screens that blind off
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/engine-code-p0011-help.267350/

P0300 talks about cylinder missfires .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/engine-code-p0300.288642/

P0304 also talks about missfires
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-dreaded-p0304.457810/

 

Does the 4 cyl use vvti? If so, I'd be looking at the filter screen and oil control valve in the vvti circuit. You might luck out and be able to clean the ocv and replace the screen.

I have the v6, but @Jimmyh might be able to shed some light here.

Good luck.

 

Never even thought about that . I think the op,s truck is a 4 cylinder

 

TPS is my guess.

 

Yes the 4 banger also has VVTI with a filter screen and oil control valve.

 

Next step I am trying is replacing the VVT solenoid, also called, OCV, or as above camshaft timing oil control valve.

Unplugging it stops the 2000 rpm issue, but truck runs like garbage.

Buying from Rockauto. Will update once tested.

 

Replaced the VVT solenoid, (OCV) waiting on small screen part to replace. Also replaced Crankshaft position sensor.

No change..

Moving towards timing chain stretch..??

The issue only happens when engine starts to get up to temp (does not happen when cold).
The issue does not happen when the VVT solenoid (OCV) is unplugged. (Same as before part was replaced).

No matter what gear, F,N,R, anytime going near 2500 rpm engine surges / loses power. This really affects the truck while driving, causes you to lunge forward a bit as if breaks were pressed). Also a metalic scraping sound when hitting this RPM. Cannot pinpoint.

Coolant level is very low, (tank basically empty), leak somewhere will try and sort. Vehicle still gets up to temp (half) and maintains level.

Welcome to suggestion:

Current codes:
P0010
P0016
P0335
P0300
P0301,302,303,304

 

Head Gasket..? Check coolant bypass pipe below the intake manifold as well.

 

Based on similar symptoms from an FJ cruiser thread I replaced the fuel pump. No change

Replaced so far:
Crankshaft position sensor
OCV (not the filter yet)
Fuel pump.
Accessory belt replaced 5k ago

Issue at hand.

When engine is warm, engine hesitation happening at 2000-3000 rpm in every gear. Quiet Jerky at low speeds. There is a rotational sound hard to describe when this happens.

At this point I am assuming the timing chain +wear components needs replacing. Going to bring to a shop to check timing.to confirm.

What is throwing me off is that the issue does not happen when first starting the struck and driving. Only once it begins to heat up.

Additional problems:

Coolant leak somewhere

Difficulty starting engine (turns over, no start untill ~25s held. I thought this was potentially the fuel pump but now that's replaced and issue remains)

Idling rough sounds bubbly like a diesel.

 

Sounds like a timing problem to me... You may have jumped a tooth on the chain.

 

Video of noise

https://youtu.be/ry46dnTu4yE

Done in neutral. When driving really surges the truck / almost like fuel is cut off.

Shown multiple times on video (ex. 20s mark). Produced when reving past 2-3k rpm.

Issue does not happen with vvt solenoid (ovc) unplugged. *Part was replaced - no change

 

Going to the shop a little sooner than expected. Something let go in the engine and the truck can no longer be driven. Will start but sounds like death so not doing that again. Tow on the way.

Does anyone have a source for timing kits / head gasket kits for these trucks at reasonable prices?

Familiar with rockauto.

~East Coast of Canada

 

I would run toyota timing parts only. I have read nightmares where folks on here replace with cheaper parts and the tensioner guides fail shortly thereafter and they have to take it all back apart. What a headache, totally worth the extra money for toyota timing chain/tensioner/guides.

As far as head gaskets, you're going to need to add back to the head gasket thickness the amount that is machined off your cyl head. Most aftermarket headgaskets are a multilayer steel style, so they're good quality. So if you reuse the old cyl head and they take off .010" you need your new gasket to be .030" assuming that the stock one was .020". I went with a mahle .030" gasket on mine, but the cylinder head was in very good shape so they didnt need to remove much.

Here's some info from when i did mine
Timing Cover O-rings & FIPG:
- Lower oil o-ring 96723-35028
Two o-rings in the middle of the timing cover on each side
- 90301-25014
- 90301-25020
- Lower pass side of timing cover o-ring 90301-19021
- Camshaft oil delivery pipe o-ring 96723-19011
- Seal packing/FIPG for timing cover/oil pan/valve cover 00295-00103

Head gasket replacement parts/info:
- Toyota Coolant Compatible Seal Packing 08826-00100 - Where this is used
- Mahle .030" MLS gasket - (my stock gasket was .020" thick and I had the machine shop remove .010" so I could use this .030" gasket. Your replacement head gasket should account/add back for the material removed when having your cylinder head resurfaced)
- Useful links/threads:
- 2TR-FE 2.7L dirty coils
- 2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh