Puppypunters idea hole

LoL!

That is 1000x nicer than what I did for my Softopper. The only bright spot is that I at least used an SAE disconnect. Normally, I would have discovered that the first time that I folded it. I was on my smart pills that day.

 

Exactly what I'm having Johnny build me Except mine is running to a third brake light mounted to my roof top tent.

 

All for naught...

 

I was getting so excited about the diode crazy option

 

The hardest part about getting into Deutsch is speaking the language. Stick with the DT series, size 16 terminals, and go either solid or stamped. Solid is a real easy crimp, damn near impossible to mess up, but the crimper is good for just those (unless you hack it like I have, but I don't recommend that). Stamped terminals are good, and the crimper is more universal (really, most any open barrel crimper can do them).

Start here with a good diagram of how they work. Deutsch DT Series - Multi Pin Connectors (deutschconnectorstore.com)

If you are looking for just a 2 pin connection, they only make flanged ones in gray (I am working on getting some custom made flanges in black for them). This is what you'd want to mount to the bed
DT04-2P-L012 - DT Series - 2 Pin Receptacle - Welded Flange, Gray – BuyDeutsch
You might consider a 3 pin if you have a cargo light though
DT04-3P-L012 - DT Series - 3 Pin Receptacle - Welded Flange, Gray – BuyDeutsch
or, get it in black
DT04-3P-CL06 TE Connectivity / DEUTSCH | Mouser

And don't forget the plug itself
DT06-2S-E004 - DT Series - 2 Socket Plug - Black – BuyDeutsch
DT06-3S-E004 - DT Series - 3 Socket Plug - Black – BuyDeutsch

Then you'll need wedgelocks, pins, and sockets. Size 16 refers to the series size, not gauge. So you can get a pin in size 16, 14 gauge for example.

Then you'll need a crimper. You can get ones for solid size 16 for $30-40. Not sure how good they work, but I've had okay luck with the brand iwiss

$33 iCrimp Closed Barrel Crimper 4 Way Indent,8 Impression Type for Deutsch Solid Contacts gage 1416&18(IWD-16)

IWISS Closed Barrel Crimper 4 Way Indent, 8 Impression Type for Deutsch Solid Contacts gage 14, 16&18(IWD-16) - - Amazon.com
They make a lot of hand crimpers for the stamped style. Most open barrel ones would probably be okay

$19 iCrimp Open Barrel Terminal Crimping Tool for Molex Style DELPHI AMP TYCO Deutsch Terminals Crimper, Molex Crimping Tool,24-14 AWG

IWISS Open Barrel Terminal Crimper Plier Tool for Molex Style DELPHI AMP TYCO Deutsch Terminals Crimper Open Barrel 24-14 AWG - - Amazon.com

I hope that helps get you started
"Crimp for a man, and he can hook up a light. Teach a man how to crimp, and he will go crazy and rewire his whole truck" - Confucius (probably... )

All that being said, I am going to start custom making these deutsch connectors with brake, reverse, turn signals, lock/unlock, cargo light, battery, ground, parking lights.... I think that covers the options. But with so much available, I think a custom approach is best. @kmorgan3 will have one soon to show off @CLVol1255 will hopefully get his installed and give everyone an idea of what it can do Puppypunters idea hole | Page 13 | Tacoma World And I am currently working on a RTL light bar set up for @franco6888 So hopefully these will start popping up and people can see what can be done. So if you need some guidance, I am happy to help, but if you just want it done and don't want to hassle with it, I can do that too

 

It looks like the crimpers are not proprietary/the terminals require/"prefer" a specific crimper (glares at Molex) so many models should work. I have the two listed on the Busmann DIY thread which I have just now learned are of the open-barrel style. What special capabilities does a closed-barrel bring to the fight? Not that I need convincing to buy more tools.

 

The open barrel are designed for terminals without seals. Part crimps the wire, part crimps the insulation. Think of two “m” shapes. Sealed terminal crimpers do one “m” on the wire, and an “O” around the seal. The deutsch solid crimpers (closed barrel) put four dimples in the terminal, kind of an “X” shaped crimp. The reason closed barrel is nice is it eliminates under/over crimping (with a good tool) as well as any rolling of the terminal. Basically, if you can strip a wire to fairly exact length, and you have a good tool, you can crimp closed barrel. No real skill needed.
Open barrel

sealed

closed barrel

 

Come to the dark side...

 

Johnny!

My end goal is to have my Auto High Beam button over on my Meso Shift Knob, and I'll be using a TR7 trigger switch module to latch the Auto High Beam switch.

That leaves my Auto High Beam switch empty for something else. I have the connector plug for it, and would like to wire my 10" Rigid light bar to this switch, but I only want the switch to be hot when my High Beams are "on". So, High Beam "on" = Light Bar "on".

Can I run a tap from the high beam hot wire - to the switch - to the relay - to my 10 Rigid light bar?

Thanks!

 

@Puppypunter you have any suggestions on pretty small (1/2” round hole it needs to fit through) 2 pin weather proof connectors?

 

I think ground switch it. Hot to one side of the relay coil, other side into the cab to your switch then to ground. Get the polarity right and the indicator led will work too. Easier than 2 wires, hot in, switched out. Same net effect on the relay in the engine bay.

 

Routinely or one time? If it's just one time, de-pin and re-pin any OEM connector. If it's routinely needing to go through, probably that screw terminal MESO used in the total tails on the reverse bulb?

 

@kmorgan3

 

Nice, even cleaner, use the already grounded switched in cab high beam trigger! C11 is accessible or you need 1/2" diameter fingers?

 

I gave Johnny like a half dozen of those connectors so he should be set

 

Awesome. Thank you! So using this post, I've located C11.

Connector C11 - Taillights / Headlights



@kmorgan3 I'm assuming I'll need an illumination harness to light up the switch?


Edit, I'll need a new plug for the Auto Headlight switch. @kmorgan3 PM incoming...

 

It needs to Be removable easily on occasion

 

Are you buds with Stewie? This is a 3 conductor on the bottom left,part of his total tails. I could measure but I'd have to take my taillight off, Johnny might have some lying around?

 

Hmm. Those actually remind me HID kits usually use a style like that.. I need to see if anyone has a dead HID kit laying around.



this is for the third brake light on my cap. I’ve got the t harness, confirmed all works right. Just trying to figure out how to wire it.

And I’m still debating what to do for a reverse light. The VLED plate mounted one is tempting me..

 

Sorry, late to my own hole... I see a few answers. The one Dave is suggesting that Meso uses is a good solution, but you’d be limited to a short length unless you want to solder. VLED sales those for their Teutonic bulbs, but they are only a foot long. How long do you need it? And how much amperage? I’ll dig out my Delphi GT150 stuff and see how big it is, but I’d bet it’s too big. You are probably looking at going down to a Sumitomo TS025 series? Even that might be too big. Let me dig through some stuff in the morning and see what I have and if any of it might work.