Aftermarket -please make a better fuel door

I admit WD40 is not the best option for this application, but it is a lubricant.
https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/
It’s not really a penetrating oil, although it does contain cleaning agents, and that’s what many seem to try to use it for.

 

We’ve been patient and accept your apology.

But seriously, it’s not the door, it’s the fact that you’ve been cantilevering the door against the cheap-ass hinge. It all could be sturdier, agreed, but most people aren’t perpetuating metal-on-metal crime. Most work just fine and don’t grind the metal. You’re special.

 

I really am
You dont know half of it
Im sorry you arent. Maybe call your mom

 

Thank you. This is the only helpful comment here.
How much was it to get it painted?

 

I've had my truck since 2015 and have never had any issues with the fuel door

 

I have a 63 ford and also never had an issue with the fuel door

 

I'd guess the previous owner lubed the hinges.

 

Nope. Never
Floor pans rusted through and replaced. Fuel door is, if you can believe it, original.. from 1963!

 

Feels unhelpful tho. Your thread is asking ‘Big Aftermarket’ to fabricate you a “better door,” not replace what you broke! If it’s just replacement you want, you already have a thread for that.

I suggest waiting for KTJO4x4 to do a plug-n-play offering. She’s probably on it as we speak. Can’t be long now.

 

You called your mom yet?

 

Well now, I guess I'll be putting some lube on those hinges.

But I do remember when trucks didn't have little doors for the filler cap.

They just had a tank cap right there on the cab behind the driver.

 

Not much. I did it myself. I bought my paint off Amazon but a site like this seems more legit. If you’ve never painted a body panel before this is the perfect time to learn on a low risk part. I imagine an auto body shop would charge at least $100 probably more.

https://touchupdirect.com/shop/touch-up-paint/toyota-silver-sky-metallic-1d6/

 

You ever have anymore problems with sand?

 

That's bullshit. Obviously the part is substandard.

Toyota makes such shitty parts, I bet their motors would lock up if you ran them without lubrication too.

Fucking junk.

 

Nah. That was a dealer fluke trying to blame everything but the truck. Engine got wet in a car wash once, started to do the same shit. I unplugged the battery and it was fine.

 

I shot some fluid film in those fuel door hinges last spring.

 

Not to split hairs with your very good post, but the lube part used to refer to the need to lubricate ball joints, idler arms, and other assorted suspension bits. Oh, and King Pins too, as they had this annoying tendency to freeze up if not lubricated. I spent many an exciting hour under the front end of a car or truck locating the grease fittings.

 

Many maintenance charts and booklets had "lubricate locks and hinges" in the '90s Besides, driveshaft U-joints and some aftermarket ball joints still need greasing, but those could be done yearly.

I made the mistake of spraying grease on the door checks on my Subaru. Now the doors won't stay open on even a slight uphill incline (like my driveway)

 

This I feel is the weirdest thing, that we are having issues with the dipstick getting stuck to the point we have to lube it so we can check our oil. I already had mine replaced under warranty once.

 

The list on the can I have on my desk says that it's a penetrating oil, but is also good for lubricating hinges. It's not my favorite for anything although I always seem to have a can hanging around. PB Blaster is a better penetrating oil, any lubricating grease or oil is likely to be better. It also says that it can removed adhesive, but real adhesive remover is better and leaves less residue. You can also use it to free stuck locks, but there are lock lubes that won't leave a residue.

What it does best is displace water, which isn't often a problem for me.