Crashnburn80's Supercharged Gladiator Mojave Build

Gladiator OEM Audio Plus install video released:
https://youtu.be/j4vPHN1rOtY

 

Just wondering if you have a conclusion on if in "general" you end up with a lighter/better set up if you go 17'' or 18" plus tires for 35's?

 

Wheel size affects tire availability, if you are open to either size I’d optimize for whatever is lightest. I think 17s are the sweet spot for tire selection, proportions and maintaining a larger sidewall for off road use.

I’ve documented some thoughts for Tacomas in my light weight wheel/tire thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...eel-tire-combo-trd-rock-warriors-ko2s.381030/

 

The broken sensor was the EGR Sensor, PN: 68142905AB. Picked a new one up at the dealer today. Damage: $48.

Dealer: This is for a 2021? It should be covered under warranty.

Me: Haha. Hahahahahaha...

 

Thank you as always. I'm super familiar with that thread and tracked down some 6 lug rock warriors. On that not though, I did pull the trigger on a Raptor....

 

So far I haven't seen anything Jeep OEM quality with your mods. Where are the mismatched painted/black fenders, wrong-handed brake calipers (with bleeder on the bottom), and frame welds off by 1/4"?

 

Have you seen the new MT Baja Boss AT, looks like they offer a 35x10r17 saying it weights in at 64lbs?

https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/light-truck-tires/baja-boss-a-t

 

Good find, I hadn’t seen those. However unless really set on those specifically or the narrower width, the AT3s in 35x11.5r17 still come in lighter at 63lbs while also being wider at 11.5 vs 10.

 

ECU overnighted to HP Tuners in IL with early 9:30am delivery. 18 hours to cover 2050 miles, gotta love capitalism where that is even possible.

Swapped a new OEM EGR sensor for the one I broke yesterday (posted earlier).

Hood struts are cool, but inverting your Jeep hood for engine bay work is far cooler.



Unlike the 2nd Gen SC, these newer units use bolt on pulleys (finally!). Ironically they put markings on the pulley, yet you have to remove it for install. Bolts are locktighted on, on a free spinning assembly. Definitely want an impact gun to break them free.


This is what happens when you tell a bored machinist you need a nut.


LOL, an off the shelf product would have worked fine, but that is some fancy backing plate/nut.


New idler pulley assembly


Heat exchanger installed


Interesting look on the underside of the SC to upper intake lid


Fake bolts for symmetry


SC coolanet reservoir installed, coolant lines connected, throttle body installed. Lots of time trying to get the hose routing just right, it isn't easy to reconfigure once the SC is installed. This is where it sits tonight, I had a much shorter day today.


Many steps call for Blue Locktite 242. The install kit comes with the smallest ridiculous sample size, really pathetic for a $6k purchase. I ran out and had a small amount running on E in my own stash but it wasn't enough. Amazon will drop a new supply first thing in the morning. Anything that sees boost pressure or is later inaccessible and calls for locktite in the instructions is definitely getting it.

Currently 89% done.

 

Better than our 1200 miles in 30 hours. Though following your wheel weight discussion, if we divide by total mass transported, we might have the edge. Scale showed us at 18.5k for the truck and 21.5 on the trailer.

 

Much lighter work today. I actually worked my day job for a change.

Got the ECU tune emailed back from HP Tuners, now just need the ECU back to load it on.

Installed all the SC lid bolts torqued to spec with Locktite Blue 242, which was deliver this morning. Very specific torque sequence per side, with initial and final torque ratings. For this project you definitely want a quality in/lb torque wrench. Reinstalled the SC pulley, locktited and torqued to spec. Reinstalled the OE alternator bracket sub assembly and idler. Installed the new longer serpentine belt, since the SC is driven off the main crank with all the other accessories, the belt is now longer than stock. Interestingly the alternator and supporting sub-assembly has to be removed for the belt change, but it does provide a lot of room with those components out compared to a belt change on a Tacoma making it far easier. Reinstalled the alternator and related wiring. Reinstalled the OE air pump and related vacuum line and wiring.



New serpentine belt required, replacing the OEM belt.


Only items left are connect the EGR and reinstall the intake. After that it is reconnect the ECU and restore power, however I do not have the ECU back yet so now my timeline is TBD on HP Tuners return shipping. I'll finish the EGR and intake tomorrow, but will be in a holding pattern till I get my ECU back.

Currently 91% done.

 

Control arms
I like this design for control arm bushings. These should improve flex vs stock without the compromise of NVH and maintenance of traditional control arm flex joints. This is the same company that makes the track bars designed for an oversized spare.
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/news/giiro-bushing



GIIRO control arms:
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-overland-short-control-arm-kit-2020-jt

Intake
In my supercharged Tacoma an AFE intake made a huge difference in freeing up top end power. In the Magnuson 4.0 Tacoma system, the intake was left entirely stock. With the 3.6 JL/JT, the Magnuson blower replaces the intake runner with a custom one, as the throttle body is now in a different location relative to stock. This means that the aftermarket intake tubes will not be compatible with the Magnuson blower, and therefore likely not the Magnuson tube with the aftermarket intake housing box either. Unfortunate.

In the 4.0 TRD blower, the air filter was replaced with a stock sized high flow cotton gauze filter. Interestingly in the JL/JT Blower, the filter is left with the stock paper unit. At minimum I'll be replacing that with the AFE Magnum Pro Flow filter.

Throttle Body
Interestingly, I also saw this for 74->80mm ported Pentastar 3.6 throttle body. Hmm. They claim +10hp naturally aspirated. With a custom tune that could be more accurately be accounted for.
https://www.modernmusclextreme.com/p-456-36l-v6-pentastar-ported-throttle-body.aspx#productTab3

Or 80mm Hemi TB swap. Nice to have an OE part, but the spacer and mount difference might not work quite as nice with the Magnuson intake runner.
https://www.mmx4x4.com/p-29-2018-20...ntastar-v6-intake-manifold-kit-by-mmx4x4.aspx

Of course effectiveness of a TB upgrade depends on where the choke points are in the intake system and how they are addressed.

 

Have you looked into Metal Cloaks joints? They look an awful lot like those Clayton Offroad joints.

 

Sexy AF. Fox Factory Race Series 2.0 ATS Stabilizer



The stabilizer has a pass through shock design eliminates the unintended push/pull affect on the steering while being adjustable to dial in the right level of control and steering feel. It also ditches the Mopar stabilizer in favor of matching the rest of the Fox Factory Race Shocks.




Also got the matching 5th wheel today, 120 mile used like new takeoff from ebay for a decent price. I opted for the upgraded Mojave wheels when I bought my JT because the unique reduced offset (lowest for a factory JL/JT wheel), I didn't like the black standard stock wheels, and OEM is usually lighter and better quality than most (but not all) aftermarket. But finding wheel weights to get data can be difficult, and when I ordered my truck the Mojave's were just released, so there wasn't anything posted online about the weight that I could find to help make a more informed decision.

The upgraded Mojave wheels come in at 24.4lbs. Only wheel options I've seen that are lighter are SCS RS10 at 21lb 5oz (but too low offset for my liking) and Volk at ~18lbs (expensive and durability may be an issue).

 

You need the Volks

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I hadn’t seen those. They do look ideal.
https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-duroflex-control-arms-full-set.html

We will see how the OEM wheels do on 37s. 24.4lbs for a 17x7.5 is wider and lighter than Toyota’s lightest Tacoma compatible 17x7 at 25lbs. So I’m not complaining.

 

Done. Minus ECU install. Just waiting to get it back from HP Tuners.

 

Awesome!! Trying to find wheels for the Raptor and I haven't found anything that light... I'm looking at Fuel Rebel 6, 17x9 -12 and weight 34 LBS.
http://www.fueloffroad.com/wheel/12...s-rebel-6-d680/?finish=3906&part=D68017908945

I have decided I'm going with the AT3 in 35x11.5.

 

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Why wouldn't you go with stock? Surely they will be lighter than most aftermarket. No way would I put a 34lbs wheel on a daily driven vehicle. AT3 in 35x11.5 is a solid choice, that is what I am running now and the lightest 35 AT I could find.

95% done.

Only 4 steps from starting the truck once I get the ECU back. But then the manual does go over the slightly revised oil change which is included in the total step count.