Puppypunters idea hole

^^ For the above we use 1/4" PVC for 2 conductor but I also have a bunch of

$168 GearIT 16/2 Speaker Wire (500 Feet) 16AWG Gauge - Outdoor Direct Burial in Ground/in Wall / CL3 CL2 Rated / 2 Conductors - OFC Oxygen-Free Copper, Black 500ft

2 conductor stranded wire with UV sheathing.

Separately, has anyone contemplated a T for the auto headlight switch to make it an auto foglight switch as well? Granted you'd lose the indicator when not employing the stalk but something like:

1. Tap the fog light intercept for OEM fog light signal.
2. Tap the auto headlights for auto headlight signal
3. use a relay fire +12v when auto headlight is on and parking lights are on
4. use diodes to combine manual fog light from the intercept and auto foglight signals
5. drive final fog light relay off signal from 4

Overkill? I suspect. Doable with only one relay? Maybe. But 1 vs 2 isn't much of a big deal in a GEP w the minis and a little crimpable diode guy.

Upside: turn off auto headlights to get "normal" fog light behavior, turn on auto headlights to get auto foglight behavior. Sort of adds some value to that switch?

Could alternatively trigger fog light auto-on off the high beam signal which would make it on with high beams but _only_ when auto high beams are on.

I dunno, maybe dumb.

 

That is what I used to enable the Green from Blue in my RGB LED when I press the ECT button.

 

@Puppypunter , @JFanaselle wants some strobes, you've done this already right? For one of the EMT guys? Am I remembering correctly? Need some strobe module or something? Or just taps on the 3 pin turns (prior to total tail harness)? Or have you done an integrated total tail harness w strobe out already?

 

Thanks @daveeasa. @Puppypunter I am already running Meso total tails. Just looking to use an LED flasher module (like this one: https://www.strobesnmore.com/Able-2...5zr5b8pFbJ1kklUQdVUJRYre0E7HefVRoCNHEQAvD_BwE ) to use the turn signal bulbs as "strobe lights" when I activate my switch for all of my warning lights.

 

Sometimes Johnny likes building a single, integrated total tail + stuff. My DIR is integrated into a total tail harness. He has a think against multiple T's in one circuit I think.

 

Here is mine. Front and rear right now, waiting on the dual meso mirror lights so I can hook up the mirrors too.



Using a strobes n more 6 channel controller


And a overhead switch (blank switch changes strobe mode)




Here is the flasher I am using
https://www.strobesnmore.com/Strobes-N-More-LED-Flasher.html

 

This is great. Pretty much exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have more info on the harness that @Puppypunter built for you? I assume it's actually multiple harnesses that connect at both the front and rear? I really only need one for the rear, as I have other lights for the front, but I suppose more lights in the front couldn't hurt anything.

 

Thanks @5nahalf , I remembered your setup but couldn't for the life of me remember your username. I knew it was distinctive.

 

Looks like another similar setup here, too: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/puppypunters-idea-hole.711584/page-13#post-25685721

 

So the front is just a simple tap into the turn signals. The rear is a modified total tail harness. I ran 4 wires from the front of the truck where the controller is all the way to the back where the harnesses are. 2 wires are for strobes, 1 wire is for reverse anytime, and the last wire is a spare constant power incase I want to put something 12v back there and need power. For the mirrors, I just ran 2 more of the wires inside the cab, they are currently just sitting under the carpet until the meso mirror signals come out. I figure the new meso mirros have 2 sets of LEDs, 1 for turn signal and 1 for DRL. I will be using the DRL ones as the mirror strobes. I am also thinking about tapping into the 3rd brake light with 2 small yellow LEDs for some more roof coverage.

I have strobes and anytime reverse lights
Here are the rear
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/puppypunters-idea-hole.711584/#post-25302248
Here is the front
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/puppypunters-idea-hole.711584/page-4#post-25324883

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing the posts. I need something similar to your rear setup, but without the feed to use the reverse lights as scene lights. Just the inputs for the flasher module on each turn signal bulb, with the diodes to keep the signal from back feeding back into the vehicle's turn signal circuit. The added DIR is cool, too, but again, not really needed.

 

Yeah, I think you guys are up to speed here. The rears are a couple of modified total tail harnesses. The diodes prevent any feedback from the stove circuit. This helps avoid any issues with the stock electronics, and also would allow each strobe to be independently controlled. So if you had a 4 channel controller, or want the front left and right rear to strobe together for example, you could. I am going to be remaking a set for @RyanDCLB soon (I have been putting him off forever. Sorry!) so I could do another set I suppose. They could also be made to be used pre-Meso harness. That’s possible as well. But like @daveeasa said, I like to integrate. Just a preference if mine. Some prefer separate components, and I can do it that way too.

 

Johnny, if you post the details I may have all the parts. I just lack the vision.

 

I can do that. If you want to build them incorporated with Meso tails, you will need a couple of connectors that I doubt you have. But that's easy enough to get.

 

I know I've been slacking, but did get around to actually making something. Behold! The SR/SR5 to TRD headlight conversion harness:

There is a lot going there for sure It taps the rear turn signals and using a delay relay, converts the front turn/DRL into a DRL only signal. I use a timer (inside the little black box) to accomplish that. It requires that a trigger signal be present for >1s, so the DRL does blink when it isn't turned on but the turn signal is. Kind of ridiculous, and definitely overkill for most, but I wanted to make a harness that replicates the function of the TRD headlights as close as I could. The only difference here is that when you turn on the DRL, there is that >1s delay. But other than that, they will act identical to stock TRD headlights.

 

Edit: COM & NC were inverted.
OEM function:

Flasher Function:

 

Do you have all these awesome images and schematics already or do you just live in a sort of Matrix environment, ready to strike with detailed info?

 

We had written about this some time ago. Had it done then.

 

Hi guys, I need some guidance from the electrical masterminds

I have a set of AMP Research Powersteps installed, they work great but there is no way to disable them. AMP offers an override switch where you can lock the steps up or lock them down, but after a certain amount of time the system resets itself back to AUTO mode regardless of where the manual switch is set. Stupid design, and potentially dangerous if your switch is set to one thing and the steps are doing something completely different. I want to be able to turn the steps off. Sometimes the steps simply aren't needed, but it's nice to have them when you need them... kids, grandma, etc.

So I want to install a switch to turn them on and off, but the catch is that I want to use the OEM Toyota power step switch that (to my knowledge) has only been available in a handful of 4-Runners between 2014 and 2021.

The 4-Runner OEM steps are tied deeply into various vehicle systems. I don't need any of that as the AMP steps have the logic built into its own controller. The only thing I need to do is have the ability to turn the steps on and off.

Here's what I know so far:

The AMP Research controller is powered by a fused (30A) 12ga positive wire connecting directly to the battery. A 16ga ground wire connects to body ground beside the battery. The steps are triggered when a door is opened or closed. Left and right sides are separate, so if you open a door on the right side, only the right step deploys.

To disable the steps from operating, I'd assume either the main power or ground to the system controller needs switched, or the ground signals from the doors need passed through a switch so the AMP controller has no idea when a door is opened or closed. I'm unsure if it would be possible to keep the left and right sides separated if all those ground signals went through a single switch, but it looks like it might be possible using the OEM Toyota switch. It appears they are bringing the RF and RR door signals together at a diode and then sending a single "right side" signal to the switch, same for LF and LR. Any idea why that diode would be needed? Perhaps so the main body ECU retains a separate signal for each individual door instead of a combined right and left side?

The Switch part number is 84890-35020. It has two positions, OFF and AUTO. There are 6 pins on the switch. I have the switch in my possession.

The housing connector that plugs into the back of the switch is part number 90980-12558, connector identified on wiring diagrams as F90. I have the connector in my possession. It is an 8-pin connector. The switch only uses the 6 middle pins, the outer pin on each side are not used. From what I have researched, here's the pinouts for the switch/connector:

1 - not used
2 - illumination? If so, is it + or -
3 - to left side door switch circuit
4 - to side step controller ECU CTY1
5 - to right side door switch circuit
6 - to side step controller ECU CTY2
7 - illumination? If so, is it + or -
8 - not used

@caribe makaira - would you be able to confirm the pin locations and switch internals for me? What I have are guesstimations.

From what I can tell, easiest way to do this would be to capture the door switch feeds from right and left and attach to wires 3 and 5, then send the wires from pins 4 and 6 to the left and right input to the AMP controller. Flipping the switch would prevent the ground from passing through, shutting the steps off. Setting the switch to AUTO would allow the ground signals to pass through to the AMP controller, and it appears that the OEM switch will permit left and right ground signals to pass through independently so the right doors would only trigger the right step, and left the left. Do you guys think I am on track with this?

I suppose another option would be to run the main power or ground from the battery to the switch, then from the switch to the AMP controller. My concerns with that are the wire sizes being much larger than what the switch can handle. Not sure if this would be possible by using a relay? Total newb when it comes to relays and such. Is it possible to run larger gauge wire to a relay but have the tiny wires from a switch like this trigger the relay?

Any help/guidance would be very much appreciated. Been learning a bunch from you guys!

Thanks