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Interior Stripping Questions.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Key-Rei, Jun 26, 2021.

  1. Jun 26, 2021 at 1:06 AM
    #1
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Key
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    So in the next weekend or two I plan on removing nearly the entire interior, I've had the panels door cards center console rear wall (now a molle gear rack) and the rear storage bins out before and had the carpet flopped around but never fully removed but I have never fully dropped the headliner, just pulled it back a bit to run wires due to the airbag labeled plastic bits that I don't know how to remove. I have also never removed the lower dash half but that should be straight forward, just never done it.

    I intend to sound deaden the interior and insulate it against heat as well as install new speakers, pre run and clean up some existing wiring behind the dash and instal the solid rubber/vinyl "FJ style" OEM flooring.

    So my questions are, how do I remove the airbag knobs and thus drop the headliner? I'm sure it's dead easy but haven't come across yet and afraid of breaking them trying to figure it out myself.

    And to anyone who has taken on this project, what is something you wish you did or should I do while you the interior is gutted?

    Any mods or things to access and or fix repair and be aware of while it's all out?

    (I am not installing an amp at this time.)
     
  2. Jun 26, 2021 at 1:26 AM
    #2
    Shadowhunter

    Shadowhunter Well-Known Member

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    Birdsview Washington
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    Front and Rear Locked, 35’s, Chevy 63” swap, Fox Suspension and a bunch of other shit too long to list.
  3. Jun 26, 2021 at 2:11 AM
    #3
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2017
    Member:
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    Messages:
    7,863
    First Name:
    Key
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    Thanks! I expected them to be sensors as well, and while the OP of that thread refers to them as such without wiring or any kind of "head" on there it appears they are just there to hold up the headliner in place and have no other function that's a good relief, they come apart about how I expected too but having only glanced at them before and shying away do to the SRS AIRBAG labeling on them I assumed they opened the other direction.

    At least that's an easy hurdle.

    The rest I knew or have done, Toyota are just big lego sets there's nothing too complicated on them besides Airbags and Trac/ABS. That stuff I leave to the professionals for the most part.

    But while I got stuff removed wanna take advantage of it if there's anything else to prep/mod/make way for.
     
    Shadowhunter[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Jun 26, 2021 at 3:36 AM
    #4
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    King's, Camburg UCA, Dirt King LCA, armor
    Recommend butal based deadening for over head applications. Also topped it off with some “foam”. If you ever intend to get a rearward facing camera now is the time to run wiring.

     
    Key-Rei[OP] likes this.
  5. Jun 26, 2021 at 3:42 AM
    #5
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2017
    Member:
    #221942
    Messages:
    7,863
    First Name:
    Key
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    Yeah I'm going to re-run my existing rear cam wiring, right now it goes along under the passenger pillars and door trims and back up, just tucked under the headliner didn't want it in the way of thw airbags.

    I will be using Dynamat extreme, Dynaliner, and on the backwall where the majority of my exterior noise comes from Dynapad, I've done it cheap before; roof tar rubber strips frost king aluminum backed closed cell foam insulation and that got it tolerable but I'm not happy with it. I guess I'm fed up enough I have decided to go full bore this time and then going over all that with reflextix in the ceiling and floor.

    Buy once cry once so the adage says.
     

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