ABS flash code 36 on 2006 DCab

ABS light on solid. If I reset it, the ABS system engages with every touch of the brake pedal, until the system shuts down again with a solid light. I'm getting a flash code of 36, but have no idea what the various codes mean for my truck. Any help is appreciated.

 

That code is for the front left speed sensor.

It could be dirty, bad, or there is a problem with the wiring harness.

Inspect the wiring harness first.

My Speed Sensors came out easy. You might pull it out and see if it’s covered in grease.
BE CAREFUL. If it doesn’t want to come out easy. STOP.
If it breaks off, you are going to have to pull the hub and drill it out.

 

Also inspect the magnetic tone ring on the hub for chips, cracks, or missing spots and check the hub bearing for play before condemning the sensor as that would cause the symptoms you describe aswell.

 

The code 36 is for an erratic signal from the left front speed sensor so I'd definitely inspect the tone ring and wheel hub closely.

 

It’s not uncommon to find metal and grease on them when the bearing starts to fail.
I didn’t really want to say that in my first post. I hate being the guy that gives bad news.
Especially if there’s a chance you can get lucky.

If he’s luck, the harness or sensor is unclipped.

 

I was able to remove the front left sensor and clean the gunk off of it. Nothing has changed after another reset. I have noticed the ABS pump kicks on with a vrrmm (constant) and there is a thrum, thrum, thrum pulsing sound that changes with speed that sounds and feels like it is at or near the brake pedal (master cylinder maybe). Would air in the line potentially cause the thrum pulsing? I have not had a chance to check the FLeft sensor with a meter, but no obvious breaks in the wiring at or near the sensor. ABS still flashes 36.

 

I hadn't seen the comment about the tone ring... If there is gunk or worse on that, it could change the sensing to a pulsing pattern I assume. Could that be why I have the weird pulsing that changes with speed?

 

The ABS is kicking in because it's seeing a different speed on that sensor and is interpreting that as a slip/skid and trying to correct it as it would in a real slip/skid situation.

Correct, if there's a problem with the tone wheel the pulses that the computer sees won't be consistent like it expects to see and will cause false activation and eventually a trouble code.
The only way to 100% confirm that other than if there's something obviously wrong with the sensor or tone ring though is with a scope so you can see the actual pattern the sensor is generating.

 

I appreciate the wisdom! At 230K without any knowledge of the previous wheel bearing work (I bought it at 200k), I'm sure it is probably long over due. Looks like there may be a leak on the inner CV for front left also. Having not worked on a Tacoma much in the past, is this stuff skilled shade tree mechanics could tackle or does it normally require pro's hands?

 

I work in a shop environment so I'm probably not the best person to ask about that but I don't think it's a big deal to do providing everything comes apart as it should.
You will need a torque wrench for the axle nut (spec is 173 ft/lbs), if you don't have access to a press you will need to source a preassembled hub assembly.

@TnShooter can probaly tell you a bit more about doing it in the driveway as I believe he just did his hubs and ECGS bushing recently.

 

Short answer is Yes. If you can/have removed a CV axle.
You can probably do all the rest. I get intimidated easily. Go slow and check everything multiple times.
I’d say once you’ve done it, you could do the whole job in 3 or faster. (2 Maybe…maybe)
Not me, I’m slow. I’d never make it in a shop. I would go broke.

See the first link below for a more details.

A skilled shade tree mechanic should be able to do a hub assembly with little problems
. I believe the axle nut was 35mm.
I borrowed an axle socket kit. But I think it was 35mm.
I unbolted the lower ball joint mount. Disconnected the tie rod from the spindle, pulled the spindle outwards and rotated it out of the way.
The axle seal isn’t much harder to get to, of course you need to remove the CV axle.
My axel came out fairly easy. I used a BIG pry bar and pried it out.
I used a seal puller, and was careful not to scratch the seal matting surface.

The Bushing was a bit intimidating since I never done one before.
But it really was a straight forward process. I ordered the install tool for it and seal.

Here a link to my post and the process of which I did it.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecgs-install-advice.712573/

If you do the bushing see here for what to look for.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecgs-tip.720437/

I also used 85w-140 Differential Fluid.