Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I’m thinking the firewall should be good since the hub will be out further and I’ll eliminate the wheel spacer which essentially makes the lever arm longer since it mounts to the hub. Yeah I’ve already had to clear a bit up front for 35’s. I was generous when doing it, but depending on where it bumps I may bite the bullet and tub it.

 

Moving it forward can put the tie rods into your coil springs. The slide rack moves your tie rods forward and away from the coil springs.

 

I would also have to imagine the angle on the inner tie rod would be far less than ideal and would likely increase likelihood of a failure. These big buggers you get with the slide rack ain’t bending unless you’re a moron.

 

Ah, that makes sense, forgot the slide moves the tie forward as well.

 

Think I remember @81Trekker saying it helps with bump steer also when moving the arms forward.

 

Also may be the age of the outers that were used. That's why I'm going to source brand new axles and then get some CVJ LT 3.5 axles as spares.

 

The outers and axles were all good, his stuff failed because he didn’t have the outer axle clips installed and the shaft pulled out of the star

 

@WormSquirts pull out game is strong you say

 

IDK …he did break it off inside…

 

Sheared that tip right off luckily just the tip

 

It's the only way

 

Those in the rocks- what are you guys doing for front skids? I slammed mine pretty hard yesterday and it didn’t dent, but bent one side up a couple inches in the middle right where it bends. One of the first things I made for the truck, but now I feel I can do it better and tuck it up some more.

I’m thinking of making a two piece design that follows that front frame brace more closely. Any reason not to just weld 3/16” plate to those two braces and leave holes to unbolt them? Might be able to just remake the braces and tuck it all up a bit higher. Fishing for ideas.

 

I took my existing 3/16 steel mobtown skid and redid the front portion out of 1/4 when I cut off the front crossmember and tucked it up. If I were building it from scratch I would likely do the same design but tuck the bottom up a bit and make a little cage around the diff like Harry does.

edit: unless you’re asking specifically about the lca brace guys. I can’t remember if you’ve done that or not, I haven’t.

 

I skipped the pivot kit, too. I like the idea of bumping down for the diff. There’s probably an inch right there. So your skid doubles as the frame brace now? That’s pretty sweet.

I have an ARB still, but have been trimming it down to be a little less obtrusive. I’d ditch it, but I push gates and shit with it so it’s kinda nice having something flat faced and not tube to get hung up. I think I can tuck up the front a bit more though.

 

I'm going to be doing some triangulation braces with tabs and then aluminum skids with a uhmwpe skin on them. Similar to what the bouncers and ultra4 and other buggies do. The shorter the distance and more support that the skids rest on the thinner and less "strong" you need to make that material. Also aluminum especially the 7075 variety tends to deflect and if it does get deformed its easier to bed back to shape.

 

Do you mean it acts as the front crossmember? No, I welded in a new one. I’ve linked it before in here but if you haven’t seen it already, this is what my front end looks like.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...h-angle-with-modified-skid-and-bumper.677127/

 

No I’m calling it the wrong thing. I meant the two non symmetrical super strut looking pieces that connect that to the other crossmember. They aren’t in your pictures but I see the holes where they used to mount

 

I like that a lot. I think I can clear a lot more up there even with the ARB sticking out.

 

Would you save any weight after all the bracing though? I’m sketched after bending 3/16”, but I should have gusseted a bit in that bend.