3.4 manual swap

I have a 98 taco with a 3.4 v6 auto 4x4. What are some of the things I would need to do a manual 4x4 swap? Besides obviously the transmission

 

Just get the Complete Donor Vehicle plunk it down as close as possible .

The Big Things are easy it is the vast quantity of little items that can add many days and many miles

transmission /transfer case rear drive shaft .

New Flywheel /With new bolts New Clutch kit and Hardware.

New Clutch Hydraulics steel lines and rubber lines.

 

Okay thank you for the help Ill do some more research with what you told me

 

I do have another question though, I already have a transfer case on my auto, will that transfercase fit on the manual?

 

Here's a few threads that'll help. You'll also need to source a year-specific Manual ECU if you want to avoid kicking CELs

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/99-tacoma-4x4-auto-to-manual-swap.531994/page-4
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/1995-5-2004-tacoma-t-vs-m-t-ecu-pinouts-215718/

 

This links helped so much, thank you

 

I'm also curious on this because ive seen competing info. I don't think there should be a difference but I don't know, hoping someone could hop in and clear this one up

 

When I search for transfercase for my motor, there is no question asking if you have a manual or auto.

They look so similar I do think they were intended to be used on both instead of making a new one for the manual.

I dont see why they wouldn't

 

I agree with that it would make sense to keep them the same, I've just seen people bring up bolt patterns being different and the actual shifter position being slightly different, so also interested in a clear answer one way or the other.

 

Yeah that is true, I'm going to make a new thread asking that question

 

Everyone I ever did there was a failure of some sort in the automatic transmission.

so both the manual transmission and transfer case from the donor was used

never really doing work on the automatic version I never looked at them that close.

 

If you have a J shifter style transfer case then it will work fine without having to hook up any diff vac lines or anything like that. I am almost completely through with a manual swap myself. I drove mine yesterday and it works great. Just a few little things on the inside to finish. Like a different console part. I have a 96 runner that was a 4x4 auto. And I put a R150f in it and used the same transfer case. I did have a donor truck. For things like clutch pedal assembly and lines and master cylinder. I reused my rear driveshaft without any mod. Which I could use a inch spacer buy as long as I don't go rock crawling it will be ok. And also used my front driveshaft without and mods. I can tell you exactly what different stuff you will need. You will need 3 longer transmission bolts to mount the transmission. One longer starter bolt for the starter. A different transmission mount that you can get off eBay for 60 bucks. It's higher than a auto. And when you mount it on that cross brace and put the brace up to hold the transmission it will not line up. It's about 5/8 of an inch off, it will need to come back. I took my brace to a buddy with an endmill and had him mill the holes back to where they where slotted and put the mount on at the edge of the brace and it works perfectly. I still have my auto ecu and the truck drives fine but does have the check engine light on. But I can't find a manual ecu for a 96 3.4 Mt. As far as getting it started. The neutral safety switch on the side of the auto trans, take the plug on the harness and take the two wires that look like they are bigger where they go into the back of that plug and those are the two that you want to run up to the switch on the clutch pedal and splice them in. So when you push down your clutch it will start. Mine were black and red and black and white. I just splice on about six foot of wire to where the plug is on the harness and cut off the plug and ran them up to my clutch pedal. I'll explain later if you need me to, but just ask me . I gotta go to work.

 

It will mount up to a manual transmission. And if it's a J shift case it will work just fine but ifs one of those transfer cases from 98-00 and it has a little actuator motor on the back then you will have to find a way to hook that up or go with manual hubs. Cause that kind of transfer case isn't what we call a J shift. But it will bolt right up to the R150f.

 

If the bolt pattern is different than they might have a w59 transmission. A R150f has the same bolt pattern. When they say get a donner vehicle. It's cause it would be alot cheaper if you can find one wrecked for about a grand without the motor. But if you do get a dinner, make sure it's one that had a 3.4 in it. The 2.7 stuff and some of the 3.0 stuff will be different. Other than the clutch bracket and lines and master cylinder. It's just alot cheaper if you can find a donner. Cause like even the clutch pedal assembly is 400 bucks. I wish that I had known you were going to do this a month ago. Cause I would have brought your auto transmission, if it was still working. Cause put 3 different A340 transmissions in my 4runner and all of them were bad. Before I just said the heck with it,and started putting a manual transmission in. I had picked up my R150 at a salvage yard that I buy wrecked Toyota's from,about 6 months ago. So I had it sitting around for a backup. Heck, the guy sold it to me for a hundred bucks so I thought I couldn't pass that up , and I would have it for a backup. So I just had to order a flywheel and clutch kit and slave cylinder. Everything else I pulled off of a Tacoma. But I still need a ECU. It drives just fine. But the check engine light is on. My clutch pedal I used didn't have the switch for the cruise control, so I didn't worry with it. Those switches are just plain contact switches, so you can wire in a toggle switch in place of them and mount it somewhere if you need to. I actually put in a jumper wire on that plug for the neutral safety switch before I cut it off, to make sure I had the right two wires. And it fired right up. It's not too bad of q job , just take ur time and don't feel rushed and trust urself if you know how to work on trucks. If I can be of any assistance, just let me know.

 

I think the splined couplers are different lengths between the manual and auto J-shift tcases - to account for different length output shafts from the transmissions, I believe. (I can verify when I convert my Taco to 5spd)

 

the case is a little thicker than a regular j shift. But it will still bolt up to a R150f trans. I've done it. Plus my 98 5 sp. Has one of those transfer cases that have the automatic 4x4 push button and where you just push it straight forward to put it in neutral and low. And it has an R150f transmission. He shouldn't have any problem using his same transfer case at all. Cause he will still use the plugs on the wiring harness that hookup to the transfer case. So all his 4wheel drive stuff will be the same. It's just the transmission that he will be swapping out. And like I say, I know for sure that it will bolt up to an R150f transmission.And If your saying that where the transfer case shaft goes into the back of the transmission is different between the A340f and R150f then if it is it's not very much cause i hadmy r150 laying around when I pulled both transfer cases and I bolted them both up to it. I used the j shift case because the truck I put it on didn't have a push button 4wheel drive and I didn't want to mess with trying to wire that stuff up. But I don't think he is trying to change any of his 4wheel drive stuff, so if he uses the transfer case that is already there, than he shouldn't have to do anything to it. Should he? If I'm wrong, please set me straight.

 

I need to find my notes from when I was developing my transfer case clocking ring; I wanted full spline engagement, so I ended up with 2 different length couplers in the kit - pretty sure there was an auto/manual output shaft length difference (trans side).

That said; may not affect stock swaps at all - I don't know.

 

Ur right. I remember now. The straight shift case shaft is about a 16th of an inch longer. But it still bolts up and rotates fine. Cause I bolted mine up and spun the transmission shaft and spun the yoke where the front driveshaft hooks up on the transfer case.Of course it only will spend in gear. And I had to put it in a higher gear so that I could spinn it by hand. But spinning the yoke was easy from the transfer case side. But yeah it is a little longer. I was concerned about it being a different spline, and if I remember right it has a space in between the spines on each side of the shaft, so I didn't know if it would hook up, but it did. I'm thinking that how I remember it. If not then I counted the splines and they both had 23 on them. Cause I was messing with a 4 transmissions and 2 transfer cases, but I'll look tomorrow. Either way it will bolt up and work on a R150. It also seemed to have longer shift forks sticking out and I thought that would be an issue, but I think it was my eyes playing tricks on me.

 

This is the transfer case that has a straight shift. The shaft has splines that have a gap on both sides but it still bolts up and works. I took a pic of it yesterday. Or I guess I should have called it a coupler.

 

Yeah, I'm having those made in extended lengths for my clocking kit - I can't recall if the extra length of splines was on the coupler itself or on the trans output shaft - or if it was the manual (I think) or auto that was longer. I'll try to find my notes.

Is that an auto TC there? (I assume so, since it has an actuator) can you measure from the edge of the coupler down to the end of the input shaft? - I can measure a manual this morning (my auto is still in the truck)