Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Thanks, yeah, I was just looking over the ‘radiator support’ thread and the photos I’ve stolen of everyone’s handy work over the years.
Going to see if I can add a superstructure to the surround.

 

Do you have pics of this, a thread or anything, or any additional tips and tricks from having done it?

Please share a link to the radiator support thread you saw? I remember one but I'd guess there are multiple.

I have the exact same part sitting in a box in my shed. I want to re-inforce, and replace. Sounds like same as you, but feeling a bit shy on what is involved. Could you please document the work you do to reinforce, and remove/replace? I'd love to see a definitive post or thread about what you did, not only in the mod department of the core support, but also the surrounding, and also in the best methods and practices of replacing and such, what to expect, etc.. I know this isn't complicated by any stretch, but would love to have a plan, see what others have done before, and have things go smooth instead of rocky and re-inventing the wheel.

Thanks!!!

 

or…you could stop focusing on the effect and focus on the cause instead

ie: the cause of a cracked core support is a frame flexing like crazy

 

Random, but anyone ran PRP's in their taco? Looking at ordering some custom premiers.

 

Shamelessly plugging these that I have for sale now: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prp-podium-elite-race-seats-new-900-for-the-pair.730741/

 

What would you suggest to do to fix the cause for the 99% of us? I've seen the pics that Harry re-inforced the bumper bracket area but not sure that is going to stop any flex that is induced from suspension and frame twist. Anything really to do for regular folks besides coil bucket cross brace? I don't see how UCA gussets would help frame flex, but they would help avoid wheel deflection. Maybe I got it all wrong. I already have the LCA tab kit.

I feel that cab mounts that are too stiff are also a culprit. I didn't have much in the way of problems, but thought it was from soft/loose body and radiator mounts and wanted to nip it in the bud. Put in the poly, and had so much damage done in 6 months it was staggering, and that is aside from the drive me insane noise they make. Put new OEM rubber in, and been tons better although the cracks that started are certainly continuing right past the stop holes I drilled. I know the cause is frame flex. But what are you going to do about it? Full cage is not gonna happen. There isn't a ton to be done on the front of the frame IMO. I'm not gonna do an engine cage either. I feel I have some reinforcement in the middle with sliders, the rear end is boxed and extra cross members made, but I do need to do the critical weak area forward of the axle and behind the slider, by dropping the tank and making plates. WISH that kit was a JD fab product!

What would you have a guy like me do?

 

https://jdfabrication.com/collections/05-15-6-lug/products/tacoma-inner-fender-replacements
there is a group buy coming sooner than later.

 

I’m surprised you have so little faith in me.

 

This is the one I was looking at most recently. Lots of info other places if you dig.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shes-ripping-apart-click-bait-i-knew-it-was-coming.685302/page-7

 

I really dont agree with frame flex being the cause of cracking. If frame flex was going to crack any of the front end stuff it would be closer to the cab. My honest opinion is the battery sitting all the way up in the front corner is the main cause of it. On top of that, the factory bushings are super soft, and I would bet 50% or better of second gens out there have core support bushings that are absolutely wiped out.

 

Installing a group 31 in the stock location was the start of my issues. Battery relocation and Energy PU isolators slowed down the progress. But once it started, there was no stopping it.

It’s definitely a combination of things. Frame flex trashed the OE rubber mounts and wallered out the openings in the core support.

 

Like anything though, once a crack develops its typically going to continue. There just isn't enough support in the front corners.

 

You cannot stop the frame from flexing different from the body on our prerunners. They must move independently from each other or we'll have bigger issues. Yes, you can do a full blown cage and try and tie it all together but somewhere it's going to be a weak point and flex and crack. What you can do is think about the forces. I'm talking for pre-runners in general with flexible (rubber) body mounts. Think about the cab moving independently from the frame and look at how far the radiator support sticks out front with little or no support (fender wells). I looked at where my radiator support and fender wells were cracking/cracked. I reinforced my new radiator support in the important areas...mount to frame, 4 mounts to radiator, and hood support (I had already lost my hood latch so I have hood pins going into the top of the radiator support). To keep it flexible I drilled out the spot welds and used 1/4" bolts. I cut the fender well out where the tire was rubbing and left it out. I then came in and formed some aluminum panels in the missing areas and pop riveted them in, again, so they flex. Back to the top of the radiator support. I tied that into the inner fender wells and up to the cab where I came out with another plate and a bushing to tie them together so they're tied together but allowed to flex. Finally I went across from fender support I made to the other side with a tube and tied in 2-more hood pins. 9-years and still going strong. I lack pictures but above is my basic write up.

 

Something like this but a bushing where the yellow line is. Most of my fender liner is there also.

 

Would be fun till the sudden stop at the bottom

 

Well mine is ripping not just on the DS and also on the inner liners and there's slow mo video of my truck twisting all up. Plus I hear it make some God awful metal on metal noises when one front wheel is hung 5ft in the air and the other is sucked into a ditch. When that happens I can see the hood gaps are different and look in my rear view and see the bed canted all out of line. I saw someone say their rear cab mout area is tearing. Idk all that leads me to believe it's frame flex. My truck hasn't been airborn as much or as epic as yall west coasters. Oh and I also snapped my hood latch off the hood from the frame flexing and everything moving so much. The battery and any extra weight up front does play a role not denying that but it's far from the main or only cause especially to the passenger side

 

Aside from the coil bucket gussets, all is done. 16” 600 lb coils were the ticket. I did end up trimming between 0.25-0.5” off of the inner tie rods to get the toe in check. This was my first shot aligning with the taco tabs, I could probably get the drivers side a little more negative camber, but I’m not worried about it. Even if this is as good as the alignment gets, it’s a good trade off knowing it won’t get knocked out every time I sneeze too loud.

this is nowhere near flexed out and I was still strapped high when I took this. I’m not much for photo shoots. It’s the best ride I’ve ever had in the truck. @81Trekker has done an incredible job with this kit. Ready to see what all it can do!

 

Glad you were able to get your toe worked out. Those numbers look just fine.

 

frame flex? thanks Toyota!


it's a tundra but same deal in the tacomas