Dealership Transmission Flush -- Did they do the service?

Well I don’t know about the proper procedure however I have had my transmission “flushed” every 30,000 miles, give or take, since it was new. I do this because I tow my travel trailer a considerable amount, at least half of the miles on my odometer are from towing. Each time I take it in I stand by the door with a window to the bay where this flush is done. My truck is always lifted about knee high or so and the machine is connected under the front end, I assume to the lines there by the cooler. It takes a couple hours to complete the process as they tell me they not only remove all the old fluid but flush some new through it to make sure they get all the old out. Then they refill it with the proper amount of fluid and bring it to operating temperature and do the overflow plug drip test. Every time the same procedure is done. This is just my peace of mind to keep my truck as long as possible.

 

All I know is it was 3 hours from checking in to paying out $350. I didn't have any codes, just wanted fresh WS in there after buying used. With the aux cooler in front of the radiator with the 4.7l's I was told they use the machine to pull the old WS out and the machine puts the same amount back in, using the rubber line the OP showed on the aux trans cooler. Output from aux trans cooler goes to the machine, the machine pumps the same amount into the return line to the trans.

My dealer has the machine, I've talked to indy shops that won't do a flush because the machine is expensive, drain-n-fill only. The 350 dollars is mostly for the 13q of WS, maybe 100 dollars labor.

 

@Skydvrr

I don't know the material. I do know that it is nearly impossible to "clean" a filter.

Consider this......The filter with gasket from RockAuto is less than $25. The filter (IMHO) is a critical item. For $25, its not worth the risk of a $4000 transmission. Besides, the service is only required very 100,000 miles on a 2nd Gen. $25 over 100 kmiles......not worth pinching the pennies.

 

Yeah. You're right.

 

My Dad had a phrase......"Stepping over dollars to pick up pennies"

 

I looked it up, it does look like there's filter media in there. I was under the impression it was literally just screen, in which case a spritz with brake klean would handle it.

 

Shoot....once the pan is off....the filter is like a 2 minute change......then the new gasket with the pan goes back on.

Do what you think is best for your situation.

My trans filter was changed at 105,000 miles.......next change is at 200,000 miles. Currently at 115,000. I'll save my pocket coins over the next few years to buy the next filter. I'm sure it'll be more than $25 next time.

 

You changed yours on a 2nd gen or 3rd?

 

2nd Gen.

Hardest part was me figuring out the timing sequence to engage the Temp Check.

Not much more complex than changing the engine oil or the F&R diffs or the Xfer case.

 

I’ll prob drop my pan and change the filter at 100k. Got a few drain n fills already

 

Recommended service interval use to be 100k for 2nd gen A750E , Its now 60K according to Toyota but there was never an explanation from Toyota saying why they dropped it down 40k , however Aisn Seiki who actually make the transmission say every 30k .

So what is the proper procedure for flushing a transmission with 100K .

Here is the way a transmission service should be performed followed by a flush if determined safe to do so . This procedure is used by the Automatic Transmission rebuilding Association ( ATRA) as well as the automatic transmission service group ( ATSG )
A pan drop is also accepted , however this means the pan and filter must be removed ,not just the old fluid

Bring vehicle into shop and explain to the service writer you would like to have the pan removed for a contamination inspection and a flush .
The service writer should be asking if you are having any issues with the transmission and if it has been flushed in the past ?
Are you doing anything abnormal on a day to basis ..towing ? stop and go in heavy traffic etc ?
The service writer should then explain that because this is a computer controlled transmission , it will have to be scanned for codes , then road tested for proper function from cold to hot before the transmission service can be performed .
The technician then test drives and signs off that the transmission performed properly from cold to hot and there were no codes present at the time of the scan . All clutch volumes are within specification .
From there , the technician puts your truck on the lift , checks for any visible signs of transmission leaks and proceeds to remove the transmission pan for a contamination inspection .
The technician will be looking at the contamination level of pan magnets as well as the transmission screen in order to determine if the remaining fluid in the transmission cooling lines and torque converter can safely be flushed .
If the magnets didnt show signs of metal particles , the pan didnt have brass or aluminum laying in the bottom and the screen is clean of teflon ,the technician signs off that is safe to proceed with a flush .
This is the required inspection to make before a flush can safely be performed .How can anybody possibly know whats laying in the pan ?
If the shop technician risks a flush without performing this procedure , not only is he jeopardizing the shop he is working for but he is also jeopardizing the life of your transmission with 100k on the odometer .
When a flush is performed without removing the transmission pan , fresh transmission fluid is introduced into a contaminated transmission .That fresh fluid has triple the detergent strength that the old fluid had and lifts the contamination off the magnets, pan and screen forcing the contaminates through your " all aluminum valve body" working like sand paper .
This can occur immediately or over a period of time
If the technician lucks out and nothing plugs up on his road test ,he passes the truck back on to the owner indicating everything worked as it should during his final road test . The computer in your truck steadily compensates for the extra wear placed on your transmission . You will not know anything is wrong unless some of that contamination finds its way to a solenoid which also does occur quite often . Who pays for that when it happens ?? There is no warranty at 100k for most of us . Do dealerships or Jiffy lube shops overhaul valve bodies ?

Getting back to a flush .
The technician determined there was no contamination in the transmission . He mounts a clean screen and a fresh pan gasket on the transmission . Now the pan is empty . Cant start a flush machine with an empty transmission pan because you will be starting the truck with a dry transmission pump .Transmission pumps do not enjoy running dry . This also happens a lot in the flushing industry .
Gotta add at least a gallon of fresh fluid to the pan before the truck starts . What a waste of fresh fluid . That fresh gallon is just going to be pumped back into the flush machine tank .
The A750E holds about 12 liters of fluid but in order to mix/flush out the old fluid its going to cost you about 16 to 20 liters of fresh fluid before you begin to see red .

So there you go folks . When I base my opinion on transmission flushes and servicing transmissions , that opinion is being based on 5000 cars and trucks .
You are welcome to pick this procedure apart

 

OK, so when and what should my first trans service be? 2021 Trd Sport 4x4 V6. Its currently at 1300 miles so I have some time. I just want your opinion as to what I should be doing when the time comes. You seem like you know what you are talking about.

 

Towing ? do you live in a hot climate ? lots of stop and go traffic ? 4x4 in low gear ? do you watch your transmission temps or do you only take the truck out for a Sunday drive ?
These are the variables that come into play when it comes to servicing your transmission .
Each transmission wears differently . . These are the questions I will be asking you when you call the shop for advice .
I believe your truck according to the owners manual in your glove box goes 125 K under normal operating conditions before it needs a trans service. Would I let it go that long in my own truck ? Never

 

The owner's manual does say, "replace transmission fluid" and mentions nothing about the filter.
Transmission fluid replacement, per the service manual, is drain/refill x 3.

 

I appreciate you. You're one of maybe a handful of guys who's presence is invaluable here on tw. Imo of course.

 

I live in New England. I do Plow snow in 4 high, occasional towing 1x month in warm months. No temp monitor. Other than that, daily driver avg 11-13k miles year.

 

What I tell my wife when she brings hers in. Otherwise it's alignments and brake flushes every 20 000. Although some dealers are better than others and the defense strategy isn't neccessary.

I didn't know this but all makes sense once you do, where I live the service shop is actually a separate business entity than the dealership. Meaning the owner of the dealership isn't necessarily the same owner as service.
And the managers are free to run their shop as they see fit.

 

Does fluid inspection factor in at all?
I mean, if it's brown and smells...isn't it basically on borrowed time anyway?

 

Considered normal operation for trans fluid to turn a light brown from bright red . In most cases the demulsifiers ( water removers ) cause some of the browning along with heating cycles but there is still life in brown fluid . When the fluid turns black , its definitely time to look at things . When fluid begins to smell burnt , all the reagents are usually depleted

 

Thanks.
A little different than what ATRA puts out there...close enough.
I do full replacements at 30,000. I've never seen brown/dark brown...more of a light brown with some red when it hits the paper towel.
Anything specific the reagents are measuring?