3.4L supercharger

she still has a good ol stock cat.

 

I’m actually thinking of going to just a #6 or just one step down from stock. Looking at my old plugs (IK22) they’re a little carbon fouled. Which means you “should” be running a hotter plug. Maybe the rich high boost has something to do with it.

I’m just hoping for a smoother idle.

 

i will say at idle this engine is by far the quietest 3.4 in my fleet

 

That's weird, with my hood up the supercharger noise is very apparent. Mines coming up on rebuild mileage though. But even when it was young it was still audible at idle. Maybe your N/A fleet needs some love lol

 

the 02 has belt noise, the other 02 has a rusty exhaust..


the 98 doesnt make any noise other than the throw out bearing. the blowers ia really quiet.. and its been unserviced since it was installed sometime before 2000

 

I would change the oil in it though if it were me, just for good measure. Should go for awhile before you need to worry about any other service for it

 

https://youtu.be/FyEH37LEs3Y

Like this? Mine has always been very apparent. Ive heard some people say theirs is “silent”. Must be deaf.

 

Yup. Mine has always sounded like that at idle. From the day I got it 5 and a half years ago to now. I do think it's getting a little louder though, but it's coming up on 100k miles so it's expected.

I can't imagine how one could sound silent, that seems impossible

 

I plan on doing the full nose cone rebuild because of the mileage and inspecting the lobes

 

Do remember this is a 1st gen unit. May be dofferent

 

I don't know much about them but I've heard they don't have the easy access home for draining and filling the oil unless you have it drilled for that. If it's being rebuilt I would look into doing that little mod

 

We shall see.

honestly I don’t expect needing to do the oil for 10 years after this.

 

Well fuck. I spoke too soon or jinxed myself. The truck has been running better than ever before since the knock sensor change. But just tonight I started to get the same symptoms as before.

Looks like I’ll be doing the GM knock sensor mod sometime soon.

@Empty_Lord i recall you mentioning you had a customer with fails knock sensors and it turned out to be coolant in the valley.

when I did my job I had seriously corroded lower intake manifold gaskets with signs the coolant was running into the valley judging by the rust spots.

The valley plugs looked suspicious as well but I didn’t do them because someone scared me out it it by saying they’ve seen a lot of leaking plugs from bad installs.

I may have to do this as well…..
Honestly, I’m just sort of sick of messing with this. One thing after another.

Too add to this the thought crossed my mind to drill a hole in the rear cover that is part of the crossover tube so I could at least try and stick a borescope in there to check later on. I didn’t do it. The only way I’ll ever know if it’s leaking in there again is by taking it all apart again. Nightmare.

 

The valley coolant leak is usually from the bypass pipe. If you had it you’d be seeing coolant running down the bellhousing.

 

my bypass was fine. I replaced it anyway. My lower intake gaskets were toast. They rusted away and there was a concerning amount of pitting on the head valley ports. interestingly the inside of the cast iron block seemed to look totally fine and the inside of the coolant ports looked great. Here’s what I mean about the valley plugs being suspect.

 

wrong section. You must be looking for the 3rd gen forums.

 

The rabbit hole

Well got the haltech 2000 Stand alone installed and tuned!


This is a huge upgrade for your Supercharger

No more open loop, closed loop to deal with!
No MAF to deal with!

Power now comes on immediately at 1500rpms

No power surges at 3500rpms or waiting for the open loop to be triggered,

You will get a 10-20 power increase up the ENTIRE power rpm range depending.

Your biggest power with be in the lower rpm range 1500-3500 rpms.
This is a dead zone with the stock ECU for power in this area.
Perfect AFR 12 now on the entire rpm range.
Much better timing numbers.
Haltech can also control the automatic transmissions shift points and rpms shift points too.
Gabe at http://www.snpspeed.com/index.html can do a remote tune to get the truck running perfectly with full support.
He has to make a custom wire harness per your ECU because of all the difference toyota changes they made.

I highly recommend his work and his kits if you want a perfect fit for your supercharger.
More info below

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/haltech-stand-alone-ecu-supercharger-3-4-installed.722842/

 

I want a haltech so bad for the 01. BUT we have emissions

my buddy is a dealer for haltech. So it’s been enticing for a while

 

So this is the beauty, it takes 30 minutes to install this kit because you have to route the wires and connect a separate 02 sensor into the exhaust.
After that it takes probably 10 minutes to switch back and forth just because you have to remove the haltech 02 sensor and replace that bung with a bung bolt.

So simple and you can leave the MAF tube section in place if you want as the haltech will not be using that info

 

The swapping back and forth could work, but the drive cycle to have all monitors set is where emissions would be come a headache. Last time I needed emissions on that thing it took 2000 miles for the monitors to set (why I’ll never know)