Anyone know what this bolt is on top of the leaf pack?

lifting the rear end of my taco. Trying to separate the axle from the rest of the truck. Removed the bottom shock bolt and the U-bolts for one side (as shown in picture). However, the axle just droops when I drop it and stays stuck to the leaf pack. Is there an extra bolt I'm supposed to be removing to get it to separate like the one circled?
Picture:
https://imgur.com/a/LTRe5GE

 

I don’t think the 3rd gen is any different than the 2nd gen.
That bolt just holds the leaf together. It doesn’t hold it to the axle.
It’s also the centering pin to keep the leaf pack from shifting.
It might just be stuck in the centering hole?

See here for some examples

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/aal-install-second-gen.54186/

 

Loosen the other side u bolts. Then it should move some

 

Is the only way to get it unstuck to loosen the U-bolts on the other side? I don't Wana make it hard to realign later

 

There are alignment pins, don't worry. Loosen the u bolts on the other side.

 

Should I be letting the axle rest on any jack stands or let both sides droop fully? Only concern since I'm jacking on the diff as it's the only point before my jack hits the height limit

They're loosened to the last few threads and staying on there

 

Why not let it droop? Slowly lower that side. Don’t over extend the lines

all I know I did when added a 3leaf aal. I did 1 side at a time. Remove u bolts, clamp the springs, loosen that center pin bolt, springs unspring, droop that side to remove pin, add my aal, insert new pin and raise to align all leafs and seat the head, clamp leafs completely before tightening center pin

 

If the axle is supported, or if the other side is still tight you're never going to be able to shift it.

Like others have said the other side of that leaf pack retaining bolt protrudes and acts as your centering pin, you can't really shift the axle forward or backwards as the head of that bolt centers it in a hole on the axle perch.

If you want to change your distance you will need to remove the axle perches and get ones that have different centering holes like from Ruff Stuff Specialties.

 

I would recommend having a jack stand to support either side as needed... I mean, don't just dump it on the ground. Mine's a little different, the U bolts are fipped, but I was able to swap springs on my own in my driveway with a floor jack and several jack stands, at least two holding up the back half of the truck, and probably one or two more for the axle. A friend would have been nice though.

Try keeping the U-bolts installed on one end, to keep the axle constrained there, but loosening them enough so you can separate the spring on the other end?

You can also use a ratchet strap to tug the axle forward or backwards to line up the pin.

 

Yeah I've got jack stands on the frame toward rear and one on the hitch...

Is it that I'm jacking off of the diff so it can't drop as far as it needs to or?
This is as far as the diff goes since my jack is only so low profile:
https://imgur.com/a/32nplwk

 

If you still have your tires on there's no issue with dropping the jack.

If you had to take your tires off to allow the suspension to droop then you probably need a taller reach jack.

When I work on my rear axle or suspension I jack from the rear diff and place my jack stands on the frame just in front of the front leaf hangers then drop the jack and when everything is still attached it allows the tires to float about an inch or two off the ground depending on where I have my jack stands set.

I can then remove the shock bolts and U bolts and move my axle freely.

If I need to full remove my axle I can remove the drive shaft bolts then the tires on at a time using the jack to support the side I am removing the wheel from and ease the axle onto a creeper then drag it out from under the truck.

There's nothing you can do about rear axle alignment, the alignment isn't adjustable without custom parts.

 

I see, yeah, your options are limited with the bottle jack. I splurged on an a floor jack a few years ago, thinking I didn't really need it, and wow am I glad I did! Just a Harbor Freight one.

With the current jack, it looks like you might have to jack the whole truck up higher first, before you can lower the axle enough to separate the springs. Sorry I didn't understand this previously before, I thought it was the other U-bolts keeping it in place.

Be careful though, that axle is heavy, and so is the rest of the truck!

Oh, and make sure you your brake lines and wires are unclipped from the axle too, so you don't tear them. Can't quite tell from the photos.

Edit: You might have better luck with the OEM jack in the back seat, I think it goes lower?

Edit 2: Here are some photos from when I did my springs, in case that helps.

 

just the ebrake line is cut and yeah... figured I might have to jack off another point which would mean another jack to buy..

On another note, anyone familiar with a whining/humming noise coming from the diff? It kicked on when I lowered it. Truck is off but battery is connected

 

I would not simultaneously remove both sets of U-Bolts on each side if you are only doing a lift. Do one side at a time. You don't want the entire axle to pivot on you. Each side of the axle will articulate downward if you have have it jacked high enough. This was my truck when I was prepping it for lift. Rear suspension was at full droop.

When I removed the U-bolts and shocks (while supporting that side of the axle with a floor jack) the axle easily separated from the bottom of the leaf pack where it could be manipulated vertically:

 

I was just editing the prior post, so in case you missed it:

The factory bottle jack is a two stage design, so it can go lower than a single-piston hydraulic jack of the same height. Maybe give it a try.

Yet another edit: Crappy photo from a video, but this shows that the factory jack is high enough to lift the axle beneath the U-joints. I have 33" tires. This would let you drop the axle low enough.



I agree with the above post, no need to remove U-bolts from both sides a the same time. Just loosen the other side.

 

I think my HF floor jack was like $100 and its been worth every penny. I was in the same boat as you thinking it was probably overkill, but I've used it for all sorts of stuff - cars, deck post replacement, etc.

Also, OP - get some 6ton jack stands

 

But my truck is 2.2 tons good sir

Anyways, I'll get another low clearance high height jack I guess! Here's another question, could I still jack on the rear diff if both sides have rear shock bottom bolt disconnected and one side has u bolts loosened while the other side doesn't have any?

 

Hmmm, that seems weird. Could it have been normal mechanical noises from the suspension stuff? If electrical, my only guess would be the e-locker, if you have one. Not sure why it would actuate with the truck off, but perhaps there was a loose connection that you jostled together. There is an internal limit switch that causes the motor to run until its in position, but that shouldn't happen with the key off, as it appears that the 4WD ECU is powered form ignition switched circuits.

There's also the gas tank and evap canister near by, I don't as much about how those work, but they also contain electrical things that could make noise.

E-locker diagram attached.

I'm not sure, but it's probably safest to have u-bolts at least finger tight on both sides if you're lifting up the whole truck again.

 

It's not about weight it's about height and stability.

I have 12 ton jack stands, my truck only weighs 3 tons but I'm on 1/2" body, lift, 3" suspension lift and 34" tires.

I can get all four wheels off the ground when lifting from the frame with my 12 tons, couldn't do that with smaller jack stands and their wider perch and base is nice piece of mind, very stable.

 

Very knowledgeable!
Happen to know if it's safe to leave the truck for long periods of time jacked up in the rear and tires still on in the front for a mega rake?