DT long tube headers

Hi I was wondering if you have any advice for installation of DT long tube headers that I bought for my 06 Tacoma 4.0L?
I’m worrying about cat and check engine light. thank you

 

You need the o2 simulator from URD.

 

They don’t make them no more

 

Wow…seriously???

 

Yes

 

u can buy simulators at autozone. there universal. go on the end of the sensor

 

Most of the time a defouler will work to bring the sensor out of the increased airflow.

I've used this eBay clone of a Vibrant J bung, with awesome results. Catless usually you use the middle sized insert, and scale up or down as needed.
You'd need 2, obviously.

 

Shameless self plug.
Seconded on the non-foulers, and it's a shame that URD doesn't make the O2 Sim anymore.

-J

 

You will throw a code with DT's if you don't have the cat vers and it will make your truck "limp" when it does.

On the DT's there's two bungs on each header one on cyl 3 tube and on one cyl 4 tube IIRC, then secondary bungs at the collectors.

It's best to use the bungs at the collectors where it will read all 3 cycls from each bank but again you will need sims or shims and extended harnesses.

The wires will just barely reach the O2 sensors in the new locations if you undo some of the wiring loom attachments and take the wires out of the looped hanger support but they will be hard up on the trans and under a little tension (At least with manual trans.) Not worth it, do it right and get the extension harness and sims.

Not sure if shims will work or not in this application.

Installation is a bit of a bitch.

I used every ratcheting wrench, every universal joint, and every swivel I had to reach all the bolts and I wasn't able to use a torque wrench on all of them.

Toyota states the manifold gaskets are not reusable, I reused mine and have no leaks.

The headers tick, a lot, sounds like a sewing machine sweat shop.

I recently Dynamat/dynapad/dynaliner'ed my entire cab with 90% coverage or so, helped a lot but you can still hear the header tick at idle.

Something to think about if you're the type who hyperfocuses on sounds.

Be prepared to break exhaust studs and have to drill them out, have spares and nickel antiseise on hand.

At my header to Y pipe connections I took the studs out, drilled the threaded holes and through bolted the three hardware connections on each side with high quality fine thread stainless hardware. Same with my Y to cat back TRD muffler pipe connection.

I did have to replace my header to Y pipe doughnut gaskets the originals were done.

You loose a tiny touch of torque at the bottom end but she does breath easier, gained a slight milage boost.

Performance increase is negligible unless you're forced induction.

Exhaust tone is increased noticeably.