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How-To: 2012 complete DTLT // URD y-pipe install

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by JustAddMud, May 23, 2013.

  1. May 23, 2013 at 8:09 PM
    #1
    JustAddMud

    JustAddMud [OP] Professional Grease Monkey

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    First off, I'd like to state that installing new headers and y-pipe are no means difficult and any mechanic that knows what a wrench is should be able to figure it out. I am writing this guide not because the demand for this how-to is high, but merely to educate and inform the curious who might be on the fence about this install. Looking back, I don't think I took enough pictures. I wasn't in a rush and had to make a few trips to the hardware store, but all in all, this install took about 8 hours. I could have condensed it down to about 4 hours if I really wanted too. Well, lets get this dog and pony show on the road:


    Goodies Purchased:
    • Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers PN: THY-517-LS-C
    • URD Performance Y-Pipe
    • URD Rear O2 Sim
    • Wicked Flows 18" muffler PN: 18SC300*
    • Vibrant Performance Resonator PN: 1142*
    *Note: Some of you may have noticed I went with the 3" in/out for these pieces. I just merely future proofed my exhaust. It's cheaper to upgrade pipes alone if I want a larger exhaust system in the future. My local exhaust shop used 2.5" to 3" step-ups and step-downs for now.


    Tools Required:
    • 13mm open end wrench
    • 4mm, 6mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket drives
    • Torque wrench 10 to 50 ft lbs
    • M12 (?) allen wrench
    • Anti-seize compound
    • PB Blast (or any penetrating lubricant of your choice)


    Hardware Required*:
    • 6 M8-1.25 x 30 bolts
    • 6 8mm lock washers
    • 6 8mm flat washers
    • associated hardware included with each kit (retain all hardware for reuse if required)


    *Note: Since this guide covers install of the 2012 Doug Thorley Long Tube headers, an additional exhaust manifold obstructs the top three studs on both the left and right hand header manifolds. My work around was to use bolts.


    The layout:

    [​IMG]

    I was originally under the impression that the y-pipe was a single piece, but it sleeves together and gets crush clamped at final install.

    [​IMG]

    The additional hardware I had to pick up. I recommend picking up everything prior to dis-assembly of your vehicle.


    Step One:

    I jacked up the front end of my truck and removed the tires for workability in the fender area. It made the install exceptionally easier. After I took off the tires, I used a flat head screwdriver to remove the rock guards pictured. Just a little prying action under the head of the tabs will work them loose. I took my time as to not break the little clips. Inexpensive, but still better to be safe than sorry.

    [​IMG]

    The driver side is pictured, the passenger side is similar. While you are in the wheel well, now is a good time to disconnect the oxygen sensor from each of the catalytic converters. I chose to leave them installed in the Y-pipe for now as removing the y-pipe will make removing the sensors easier and they will be less prone to stripping.

    [​IMG]

    Ignore the deceptive 'Red Square' for now, I'll get to that later. The sensor connector is located where my middle finger is pointing. I don't have a better picture than this, sorry. The passenger side is similar. Those little plastic clips were a pain in the butt to get disconnected. Take your time and slowly wiggle them out. You will be reusing the 02 sensors and you do not want to break any of the wires.


    Step Two:

    I began the removal process by removing the stock Y-pipe. I removed the rubber bushings holding the y-pipe to the vehicle under-body. A little squirt of PB Blast and some wiggling popped these off easily. Retain these bushings for reuse. Disconnect the two bolts holding the passenger side Y-pipe and discard (or retain for some extra scrounge hardware for future projects). Remove the two forward studs on the passenger side Y-pipe where it connects to the passenger side exhaust collector. You will not be reusing these studs as the supplied hardware is replaced with bolts. Unfortunately, in my haste, I neglected to capture this step with my camera. It should be fairly straight forward.

    [​IMG]


    Step Three:

    Work your way to the drivers side of the vehicle and follow the Y-pipe up over a cross-member. On that cross-member is a bracket. I tried my best to theorize its purpose other than to limit movement of the y-pipe. I'm sure a commenter might be able to clarify. I removed it and stored it off the vehicle for safe keeping. Remove the rubber bushing on this side in the same manner as the one previously. On another note, I also removed the silver heat shield from above the stock y-pipe to aid in its removal. I didn't want to damage anything. This was not required as there was allowable clearances and merely resulted in another step to reinstall it upon completion. Fortunately, not pictured for this writeup.

    [​IMG]

    Additionally, not pictured is removing the two studs connecting to the driver side collector. These two studs should be removed in the same manner as the two from the passenger side.


    Step Four:

    Return to the passenger side of the vehicle and remove the two bolts from the union where the Y-pipe meets the exhaust pipe. I retained these bolts along with the factory crush washer. Pictured as a silver wire-mesh. It is recommended that you replace all crush washers when installing new items as it forms a better seal so I've been told. I did not do this because the following day I went to the exhaust shop to have them weld up my new aft pipe. I gave them the new crush washer for install.

    [​IMG]

    At this time, you should have enough wiggle room to remove the complete y-pipe assembly. Split the passenger side and carefully feed the longer portion over the cross-member. Its not very heavy but it is oddly balanced so potential damage could occur.


    Step Five:

    Work your way to the base of the passenger side header. Where it connected to the Y-pipe, you will notice a small bracket connecting to the collector and transmission(?). I removed this bracket for ease of install. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of it installed. The following picture shows where it is located from the passenger side, the driver side is similar. After completing the install of the new headers, these brackets did not line up exactly with the new headers so I used some risk management and neglected to reinstall them. I'm sure they serve a purpose other than to get in the way, use your own digression as to whether or not you wish to reinstall them.

    [​IMG]

    Its a small piece of metal no bigger than a business card.


    Step Six:

    With everything out of the way underneath the vehicle, proceed to start with whatever side you wish. I started in the driver side wheel well. You will need to first disconnect the exhaust manifold pressure tube thingy as pictured. Both the driver and passenger sides have a shim, pay attention to the orientation of the tab as seen in the picture. I'm not 100% positive if the orientation makes a difference here, but again if you take something off, better put it back the same way you found it (most of the time, heh). I removed the studs pictured, as they will be replaced with bolts found in the DTLT hardware bag. See step one's second picture for the red square :)

    [​IMG]

    The arrow points to that tab orientation, the drivers side tab is on the bottom.


    Step Six and a half:

    Forgot important step here, oops. Carefully remove the 02 sensors from the old headers and install them in the location of your choosing on the new headers. You are given a total of four choices, two higher up on the headers (the wires weren't long enough to reach this location for me) or the alternative is two on the y-pipe. I chose the y-pipe location as this worked better for me when routing URD's rear O2 sim. Bear in mind that whatever hole you use, be sure to install the closeout bung in the empty hole.


    Step Seven:

    The most important step and I don't have pictures sadly. Your going to need child hands to get at the 6 nuts holding the header flange to the block or just a lot of time. Remove the 6 nuts from the drivers side and pull the header toward you (if you are working in the wheel well). I had to remove a good majority of the studs to get enough wiggle room to get the header free. Use the 4mm socket to do this, I tried to reach with a box head wrench but the studs aren't really designed for that. I managed to strip one using the wrench then switched to the socket. Lucky for me, I was going to replace the studs on the top row. Whew. If the studs are giving you issues, hit them with a little PB blast and let them sit for a bit. Caution: Be mindful of the seals, your going to want to retain these seals for reuse so take care not to damage them. Your also going to want to reinstall the seals in the same manner in which you removed them, so be observant.

    Once you get the stock heads out of the way, I fished in the DTLT headers up from below. Easiest route in my opinion. Use a buddy to align the metal header seal on one stud. Since I had 5 out of 6 studs removed at this time, it was fairly easy to get the new headers on. Feed in the remaining two studs on the bottom row and get nuts started. Note: for all the hardware you remove from the block, dab a light coat of anti-seize on the threads. It will take some movement to get the bolts started. I laced the bolts with a small dab of anti-seize followed by one lock washer then one flat washer. Your going to want to torque these bolts and nuts to 16 ft pounds. Good luck with that. ** Tighten down the driver side then move to passenger side and repeat.

    After both sides are wrenched down and tight, you've just completed the hardest part of this install. Now you get to put everything back together. YAY!

    **Note: I chose to wrench these down fairly tight, after about 30 to 50 miles I went back and rechecked these bolts and nuts to ensure that they were still tight. Fitting in a torque wrench in that area is a pain. I am in no way condoning my method, always always always ensure the correct torque values.


    Step Eight:

    Don't forget to reconnect those little exhaust ports as depicted in step six. I tightened those down snug.


    Step Nine:

    Work backward from underneath the vehicle, feed the URD y-pipe over the cross-member and loosely install the new crush washer and bolts connecting the collector manifold to the y-pipe at this time. You will come back and tighten these down shortly. Reinstall the rubber bushing that you removed in step two. They should easily slide back on. Slip in the passenger section of the URD y-pipe and attach those two bolts and new crush washer to the header collector as well. Leave them loose at this time. Align the aft bolts up with the rear section of exhaust. Note: Like I stated previously, I used the original crush washer here because my specific application called for it, if you are ending your install here be sure to install the new crush washer in its place.

    Now all 6 bolts should be temp installed at this time, four coming off the header manifolds and the two at the base of the y-pipe. Double check that the crush washers didn't move and torque the bolts at the collectors to 46 foot pounds. Once these are torqued down, tighten down the retention bolts on the aft exhaust pipe.

    Step Ten:

    The passenger side of the y-pipe will have a slip union. Snatch up that pipe clamp and wrench that sucker down ensuring that your overlapping both sections of pipe. See picture. I positioned my pipe clamp off to the side which allowed me to wrench down on it and reduces any possibility of stuff getting stuck on the clamp. Call it paranoia if you must.

    [​IMG]


    Step Eleven:

    Everything should be put back together at this time, reinstall the rock guards in your fender well's and reinstall your tires if you took them off. Pat yourself on the back because your all done.

    ________________________________________
    ________________________________________

    Here are some photos of my final post welded exhaust.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I chose to dump it after the axle, and I'm enjoying the sound. I've put on about 1k miles since the install and its not overly rice'y sounding. The tone is subtle and strict. I'm glad I purchased the resonator, I don't hear rasp at all.

    Well I hope this was informative, Ill monitor this post and update with corrections and clarifications as required. If you want another perspective on a header install, check out http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5553 Its not for the 2012+ but it may answer some questions you might have.

    -J
     
  2. May 23, 2013 at 8:50 PM
    #2
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    Great write up man :thumbsup:
     
  3. Aug 4, 2013 at 12:19 PM
    #3
    ezemanf

    ezemanf TaTonka

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    Great write-up! Wish I would've seen this eariler during the week...Definitely would have been a hassle free installation.
     
  4. Aug 7, 2013 at 10:35 AM
    #4
    KingKoda

    KingKoda Never Satisfied

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    Thanks for the write up. Any opinion on the resonator? Which did you choose to go with?
     
  5. Aug 7, 2013 at 10:49 AM
    #5
    gjacobsjr

    gjacobsjr Well-Known Member

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    lets hear it!!
     
  6. Aug 7, 2013 at 10:50 AM
    #6
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    If headers happen this will be very useful!
     
  7. Aug 8, 2013 at 10:29 PM
    #7
    JustAddMud

    JustAddMud [OP] Professional Grease Monkey

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    I chose the Vibrant performance Resonator 3" inlet/outlet http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1033_1055 because research (thanks Tacomaworld!) informed me that by removing my cat's and installing the DTLT headers I would get the dreaded rasp! Looking back, if I was to do it again, I would have just gone with the 2.5" model as I don't have any plans on modifying my exhaust setup any time soon. I believe it sounds fine for my needs. I wasn't looking for something earth-shattering, I just wanted to allow my truck to exhale easier while not sounding like a rice rocket.

    Now as for the muffler in my setup, it was a tough choice between the Aero Turbine 2525 or the Wicked Flow. Cost drove me to the Wicked Flow option.

    Unfortunately I'm still rocking a flip phone so no sound bytes from my truck, however I did find a video that sounds very similar.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...me-some-wicked-flow-opinions.html#post6687805
    Tacoma world user 'Tacoma SD'
    Its a fairly spot on rendition of my setup. I'm not 100% positive if they are running a resonator. But judging by the pictures in that post, Tacoma SD is not running a resonator so theirs is a bit louder than my setup. I'm sure some of the TW Wizards could better explain the positives and negatives of running a resonator vrs a resonator lacking setup.


    -J
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2013
  8. Aug 9, 2013 at 12:10 AM
    #8
    mipawlus

    mipawlus #332 Veteran Overland, #159 TTC, #69 in your heart

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    you are a scholar and a gentleman! great freaking job on the write up!! call me silly, but the parts should be the same for the 2013, correct? this is my next step for mods and i've been wallowing in lack of information.
     
  9. Aug 9, 2013 at 12:16 AM
    #9
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Another day another beer

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    Nice set up op your truck must sound real nice
     
  10. Aug 9, 2013 at 2:03 PM
    #10
    JustAddMud

    JustAddMud [OP] Professional Grease Monkey

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    Well dont quote me on this, but the 1GR-FE "should" be the same across the board. At least the block should. Now easiest way to tell would be to do a good ole search-a-roo on this website. The differences between the 12' and the 13' 6cyl's is probably minimal. Take a gander in your engine bay for the tube depicted in Step 6 on my original post. I called it an "exhaust manifold pressure tube thingy" but I dunno what it is, some emission thing probably. If the 13' is the same as the 12' then you shouldn't have an issue.

    Additionally Gadget from URD on this post http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...r-install-2012-tacoma-issues.html#post7254451 stated that the headers are supposed to come with replacement studs, if thats your issue.

    As of this posting, there are 0 listed headers for the '13 1GR-FE (Another note: the headers listed for the 12' 1GR-FE are also improperly listed on URD's website. I had to dig to find the right model to order.. *Poke Poke Gadget**). Doug Thorley's website also only lists headers up to the 12' taco. Just FYI, the pictures posted on both URD's website and Doug Thorley's website are not of the THY-517-LS-C even though they are stated as such. They are of the earlier model, the THY-515-** something or other. Email either http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/ or http://www.urdusa.com and get the skinny from them. Keep us posted here on any findings because your probably not the only one whose interested. This post ended up being a bit on the long side and possibly didn't even start to answer your question.

    Side note, you could do a side by side comparison using the pictures I took to what's visible in your truck. Best of luck buddy.

    EDIT: Look at me, Mr Happy Helperton http://urdusa.com/p1260519057/THY-517-LS-C,-Long-Tube-Header,-2012-Tacoma-V6-ONLY/product_info.html Description is deceiving, but the text does say it fits the 13 V6 1GR-FE. So now there's no excuse :p

    -J
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2013
  11. Aug 9, 2013 at 5:51 PM
    #11
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(

    Yup, you're fine.

    The Doug Thorley Long Tube headers (p/n THY-517-LS-C) will indeed work just fine on a 2013 4.0 Tacoma......as I have have them on my '13 Tacoma. Click the build in my sig for more pics. ;)
     
  12. Aug 9, 2013 at 6:34 PM
    #12
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    It seems as though JustAddMud & I have damn near identical exhaust setups with only the muffler canisters being the difference. I'm running a 3" center in/out Magnaflow p/n #12579 (5" thick, 11" wide, 22" long).

    Along with my DTLT's and URD y-pipe, I'm running the front pipe of a URD Mk2 3" modified as a custom turndown catback that dumps right before the axle.

    Today I had a Vibrant Performance Ultra Quiet resonator (p/n #1142) welded in with awesome results in sound. No more rasp! Click on the build link in my for more pics.

    Video WITH the resonator installed today:

    http://youtu.be/I2PCDlBjCgs
     
  13. Aug 9, 2013 at 11:29 PM
    #13
    mipawlus

    mipawlus #332 Veteran Overland, #159 TTC, #69 in your heart

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    My wallet hates you. haha. That was the problem I was running into with every site - none of them listed the 2013 model. I even sent URD an email a few weeks ago but haven't heard back. Maybe it will be an early Columbus Day present to myself, so I can give myself a supercharger in my Halloween candy basket... ;) Thanks for the info though! This made my day!
     
  14. Aug 9, 2013 at 11:36 PM
    #14
    mipawlus

    mipawlus #332 Veteran Overland, #159 TTC, #69 in your heart

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    Dude, that sounds awesome. I love the camera shake accompanying the revs! haha. Thanks for sharing your info too, it's making my life easier and my wallet slimmer (whether or not that's a good thing, i don't know). I'm planning on getting the TRD SC in Dec/Jan, but I was looking at URD's as well. 420 Hp for about the same cost as the TRD one.
     
  15. Aug 10, 2013 at 12:24 AM
    #15
    mipawlus

    mipawlus #332 Veteran Overland, #159 TTC, #69 in your heart

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    Maybe I'm asking in the wrong place, but instead of using a different y-pipe and resonator, is it possible to just use the DT "pipe bomb"? Is there really a difference? outside of the pipe bomb being a lot cheaper.
     
  16. Aug 10, 2013 at 2:38 AM
    #16
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    I don't have firsthand experience with the DT Pipe Bomb, but man, the kink in it compared to the URD y-pipe bothers me. :( I'm sure those resonators help on the DT piece though.

    URD y-pipe:

    [​IMG]


    DT Pipe Bomb:

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Aug 10, 2013 at 2:43 AM
    #17
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    Lol thanks man.

    URD s/c kits are legit, but the TRD s/c kits are no slouches with the right mods.
     
  18. Aug 10, 2013 at 6:25 AM
    #18
    mipawlus

    mipawlus #332 Veteran Overland, #159 TTC, #69 in your heart

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    I was reading up on the pipe bombs and they sound great, but people aren't generally happy with them. they say:

    "Not an exact bolt on, the flange that connects to the muffler side was 1/16 of an inch too long and prevented the donut gasket from sealing had to grind down to properly seal. Also, on the Tacoma with 4wd the exhaust runs close to the transfer case where there are plastic actuators that could easily melt make sure you purchase exhasut wrap and shield them. After these slight modifications it gives the truck a good deep sound and definitely feel the increase in power..."

    and

    "URD is a great company with great service. As for the "pipe bomb" it's a little louder with my magnaflow but now has an annoying rasp around 3300 even with stock manifolds. Not too much gain as far as power either..."

    Granted, those are from the URD website, so they may be biased, but they are in line with other ones that i've read on the googlized internet machine.
     
  19. Aug 17, 2013 at 2:02 AM
    #19
    JustAddMud

    JustAddMud [OP] Professional Grease Monkey

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    In regards to the DT Pipe bomb, there were two reasons I opted to not go that route.

    As Mipawlus stated, I too used the Googley Monster to find some not so charming reviews of the pipe bomb installed on the 4wd model. Most of them stated that there were some slight modifications required to get it to fit right and second, that it required some heat wrap. There was also a similar post here about 8 to 12 months ago on the topic.

    I was comparing URD's performance Y-pipe, DT's Pipe-Bomb, and APR Power's 'Pulse Tuned' y-pipe. DT's had the modification & heat wrap & had cat's that I was trying to remove anyway; APR's didn't seem to fit the 4WD models (at least my interweb research couldn't dispute) and the whole V-band clamp modification. Now URD .. well I couldn't find any issues with it. Whew, that's about it.

    -J
     
  20. Aug 17, 2013 at 6:14 AM
    #20
    mipawlus

    mipawlus #332 Veteran Overland, #159 TTC, #69 in your heart

    Joined:
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    Rust and dents and squeaks
    Yeah, I'm looking at somehow getting the DTs in with a URD Y pipe. Don't know how yet, since I plan on keeping the cats to stay nice and legal (knowing my luck, I'd get popped at the first inspection).
     

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