Updated T-SB-0326-08 Oil Leak

Here is an updated T-SB that supersedes TSB No. EG051-07 that now includes 08's T-SB-0326-08.

 

Hope I'm not out of line on this thread to ask if anyone has had it done on their '08 and where?

 

cool...

 

I had this done to my 06. It took the dealer two days to do it.

 

My 06 DC Sport w/53k has the leak too. I'll contact the dealer in the morning.

For the people who had this TSB done, has the leak returned? How many miles traveled since this TSB?

 

The dealer had the car for two days to complete

TSB-0326-08 oil leak front timing cover
and
TSB-0173-09 A750E Transmission Extension Housing Seal Service Tip

On your service invoice, what are the parts #s replaced when your Taco was serviced for TSB-0326-08?

These are the parts replaced on my service invoice.

11213-AD010 valve cover gasket, right
11214-AD010 valve cover gasket, left

$23 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 FIPG
2 x 90311-40001 seal, type T oil

I'm not sure why part # 90311-40001 was replaced since it is an Automatic transmission - Extension housing seal. And, this part was listed for TSB-0173-09 as the original seal. The update part 90311-40034 is listed as the replacement for the transmission.

 

Was a relief seeing my 2008 was not in the affected VIN range.

 

Wow, I had no idea about this TSB. Just reviewed it and my '06 VIN falls within the range. Guess I'll have to check for the leak. Good to see it falls in the 60k mile warranty.

 

OK, looks like I may have to the pay the piper. My timing cover is leaking at 80K miles on my 06 DC TRD Offroad. My mechanic said it's a small leak so I need to just watch the oil level and stay off any serious "offroading" to avoid dirt/contamination via the leak. Two questions: 1. when do you need to replace the timing chain. Service manual says 90K miles for most Toyota based trucks but I cannot find the specific listing for Tacoma's. If I'm due for a timing chain replacements I'll have it done all at once. 2. Has anyone replaced the timing cover seals and/or timing chain on their own? Would like to understand the scope/effort of the job. My boys and I have some mechanical skills... we can address most/all standard tune up/maintenance items and mods. The hardest mod recently was installing an SC on my 98 M3. Involved electrical, mechanical and some hydralic.

 

i would do it myself,it would cost a cagillion dollars at the dealer

 

Check with the service department first but on my 92 Toyota they told me they do not need replacing just adjusting. I'm hoping it is the same for our newer model Tacomas.

 

Reply to jamestech,
I just found the same problem with my truck.AHH. How stressfull... The fact is that you don't have a timing chain, what you have is a timing belt which only needs to be adjusted and you probably wont need to do that for another 20-50K miles. The gasket itself is only worth about $50 and that's from the dealer. But if you want them to do it for you it gonna cost you about 1300. Its 12xx just in labor. F!%& them i would just do it myself. Im thinking about doing it myself only that i need some help. It is very labor intensive but nothing complicated going on. You need to make sure to buy gaskets for the valve covers, and the fuel injection system because youre going to need to replace those. Also, you might as well replace the oil pump, and crank shaft gaskets because those have been problematic in the 06 model as well and youve already done the work. If i were you i would wait till i hit about 100k, or till the seap turns into a leak and then set a weekend aside to knock it all out. Let me know what you decide to do

 

OCTaco - All cars and trucks have a belt and a timing chain. What do you mean no timing chain? Even lawnmowers have chains (not timed though).

I just bitch slapped this T-SB in the face!

I have a 06 Tacoma PreRunner (RWD), SR5, 4.0L, 5 speed automatic, double cab, Sport, Speedway Blue with 82,000 miles (bought it used).

For me the power train warranty is not in play. I would recommend for someone who has this issue and is still in the power train warranty range of 5 years or 60,000 miles to have the dealership take care of this.

But if your like me, I would recommend doing this yourself to save lots of $$$ and to learn a little bit more about your truck. Also, take your sweet ass time, I did all of this in 5 days after work each day - a pro, like a Toyota technician would have this done in under 8 hours.

If your serious about tackling this yourself, get these:

• Get a repair manual: http://bit.ly/bmFVDD
• Also reference the Toyota OEM repair manual for 05+ Tacoma's : http://bit.ly/aRy17Y
• Get the proper tools (see repair manuals) Don't attempt doing this with any chicken shit tools
• A engine 'conversion gasket set' ($50-60). Go here: http://www.rockauto.com and search for your model truck, under Engine > there should be a Conversion Gasket Set folder

Below are some pictures that I took, sorry for not taking a pic at every step, I was going to shoot a time elapsed video but, I got lazy, ha.



(pic above) Taken after radiator and valve covers (or as Toyota officailly calls them 'cylinder head cover sub-assembly[FONT=&quot]'[/FONT]) were removed.



(pic above) Taken after timing cover was removed.



(pic above) MISC parts everywhere.



(pic above) The timing cover w/ water pump (cleaned up).



(pic above) All put back together.


In doing this the hardest parts were:

• Taking off and putting on the crankshaft pulley bolt (185 ft/lbs). When taking it off, use the proper crankshaft pulley tool to hold the pulley while taking the bolt off with a breaker bar. When putting it on, same thing, but use a torque wrench to tighten.
• Applying the RTV silicone on the timing cover and aligning it up with the crankshaft and tightening all 24 bolts/2 nuts before the silicone dried (10-15 minutes). Recommend to dry fit the timing cover so the oil pump aligns with the crankshaft angle.
• Other than those two things, this was easy.

Post pictures if you attempt this.

It was actually kind of fun, plus I think my truck runs a little better because of the fixed oil pressure and I applied all bolts to the spec'ed torque.

Take care.

 

nice write up and pictures, I didnt even know about this TSB under reading about the rear seal transmission leak...then saw this, and of course my 06 has the same problem!!! ugh... Looks like a big job and one i might try at some point. One thing, it seems like a small leak, i mean you dont have to add any oil over the course of normal oil change of 5,000 miles..

If you put this off and never do it, I wonder what problems you could run into?

 

Thanks SurfnWolf!

It is a small leak, but with time it will only get worse. Before doing this, I should have taken before pictures to show you guys what happens when you just wait it out. It will not leak a crap load of oil within a oil change period, but it's just annoying that it does leak.

Obviously when the engine gets hot, the oil gets very thin and pressure builds within the engine. If there's any small leak of pressure the thinned oil will leak and because the truck is being driven the oil leaks down and back. After it leaks and cools down, after time it builds up gunk. Well, in my case the entire passenger side of the engine (everything below where it was leaking to the back of the transmission) was gunk! And any excess oil was dripping on my car port. My OCD kicked in and I had to fix it.

The bottom line is that if you wait it out it will just get worse. Crawl under your truck and look up at your power steering pump. If you see fresh oil everywhere with a gunk trail (similar to what I described) than I would suggest fixing it.

BTW, maybe the newer Tacoma's have a 5,000 mile oil change limits (like my 2009 Toyota Corolla), but it should be 3,500.

Mark

 

Took me about a week to finish this off, but only because I started before my pulley holding tool arrived. Here are a few pictures of the oily mess down the passenger side of the engine.


Oil was slowly leaking out while the truck was being driven and was not spotting on the driveway. Replaced the water pump, spark plugs, fluids, and various gaskets along the way. Couldn't have done it without this thread, so I will add to it. More detailed write up in progress!

 

Before we begin:
1) Do research-Know what you are getting yourself into before you start taking things apart. As is stated in other posts in this thread, this is not a particularly difficult thing to do, but it does take close attention to detail.

2) Have all parts and tools ready before you begin-I did not have everything ready, and I had to sit for a few days I ordered OEM parts from RockAuto. Their prices were best, even with shipping.

Parts I Used
Conversion Gasket Set-recommended but not necessary(water pump included its own gaskets and you could get by using gray RTV from Autozone)
Water pump-Though the water pump was not failing, I replaced it since it was convenient
Valve Cover Gaskets w/grommets
Spark Plugs-they were due, and easy to get to
Serpentine Belt-also due for replacement
Toyota Super Long-life(pink) Coolant-I used just over 2 gallons
Oil & Filter

Tools
Socket/Ratchet set
Hex bit socket set
Pliers
Wrenches
Breaker bar(bigger the better)
Torque wrench(Max torque used is for crank pulley,185ft-lbs, but other bolts are in-lbs, so 2 could be used)
Clamps(or saran wrap and rubber bands)
Pry bar set
Various extensions(makes life easier)
Crank Pulley Holding tool-essential for this job*(explanation of how to use this tool is discussed here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/97482-crank-pulley-bolt-removal-easy-way.html )
Repair Manual-recommended, but hopefully I can explain this well so you won't need one
*there is a parts list on the link that will come in handy too!

3)Take it easy. If something won't come loose, take a break. I have only screwed things up when I get impatient or angry. Broken stuff costs $$$ Just go eat a instead.

4)Stay organized! I recommend labeled plastic baggies to keep track of your bolts, nuts, and plastic rivets. Pictures can also be helpful if you forget how something attaches.

5) I am going to try to not cover things that have already been covered elsewhere, such as oil and coolant draining and replacement. That is what searching is for.

 

These steps are in the order that I did them, and I will note when I drained fluids. There may be a better order to do this in, and you may not have to do all the steps to get to the timing cover. I just did what was recommended in the manual so I would have more room to work with.

Battery

Start by disconnecting and removing the battery. Remove the clamps, then loosen the battery bracket. Once the front of the bracket is loose, it will slide off. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray.

Skid Plate
No picture, but it is pretty simple. There are 4 bolts holding the skid plate, one per corner.

Air Intake and Filter Housing

Undo the clips on the filter housing.

Remove the 2 bolts from the air intake. Wiggle the air intake loose and remove.

Engine Cover

Undo the 2 nuts on the top of the engine cover. Lift the front and pull it off the support bar.

Draining Coolant
At this point, I drained the coolant. Just tried searching for a good DIY for coolant change, but none were very descriptive. To drain the coolant, first loosen the radiator cap(when the truck is cool). Then locate the stopcock on the driver side bottom of the radiator. Twist it counter-clockwise to open.

There are also 1 but possibly 2 engine block drains for the coolant, but I couldn't locate them. Close the stopcock when the coolant has fully drained. Make sure to catch the stuff and recycle it.

Grille and Fan Shroud Cover

There are plastic pins holding the shroud cover in place. Pop them out and remove it. For the grille, there are 2 screws and 2 plastic pins holding it in place. Once they are out, lift the grille up to remove it.

Fan and Shroud

To remove the fan, use a wrench to loosen the nuts while jamming the fan with a pry bar or something(be creative). I used a serpentine belt tool held in a way that jammed the nuts on the fan. It is best not to remove the nuts until they are all loose(gotta have something to jam it with!). In my opinion, this was the second hardest part of the whole job. Those things are really on there!

Remove the hoses attached to the radiator and transmission cooler using your pliers to move the clamps. To break the hoses free, try twisting and pulling, and if necessary, use a screwdriver to pry them off. Label them! I also used saran wrap and rubber bands on the hoses and their connections to keep out contaminants.

The fan shroud has 2 bolts located on either side of the radiator. Remove them. Then, pull the fan off the pulley and lift it out while simultaneously lifting out the fan shroud. Careful not to damage the radiator.

Radiator

There are 4 bolts that hold the radiator in place. 2 are visible in the picture, and the other 2 are located behind the front bumper cover directly beneath the 2 in the photo. Use an extension to reach the lower bolts. If you hear loud popping when these come loose, it is ok nothing to worry about. Once these are removed, the radiator pulls out the top easily. Mine had all kinds of gunk in it, and I cleaned it before reinstalling it.