3.4L supercharger

yes it was running great...im back to naturally aspirated at the moment and its still running great

 

Are you running the Ruthenium's in heat range 7? I know that Austin @austinmtb is, based on the part number he listed.

I think I read that NGK recommends heat range 5 (FR5BHX, 96457, .044" gap) for a normally aspirated 3.4L. It seems like heat range 7 would be too cold for that scenario.

 

I get around 18.5 highway, about the same just around town. If I really tried, I dont think I could go lower than 15, maybe 13?

 

the worst ive ever got was 7 mpg with my 2" pulley pushing the truck as hard as I could full throttle up hills from 3k -8k ft. elevation. freeway driving i see around 18mpg

 

warranty covered it. new supercharger should be here sat!

 

You were right summit racing covered it under warranty. my new supercharger should be here sat!

 

7mpg? i thought i was doing bad at 10 in my tundra....

 

I can get 18mpg... normal mountain driving I get 13-16 mpg but when I got 7mpg average that was on 33" tires with 4.10 gears with a 2" pulley full throttle all out running around 93-95 octane up a 6-7 % grade...like the same grade as the grapevine (I-5) on the way to los Angeles.

 

since going to 33s on the tundra ive actually better getting better mileage on the highway.. (2600rpm at 85 probably helps...) 17-19. best my 01 ever did was 17 with the lift and tires... no idea what the 98 does.. because well i cant drive it without fear of it breaking in half yet

 

You gotta work hard for it lol

 

I run the gap toyota does when they supercharge the 2nd gens as the stock gap is the same and they likely go fairly conservative. So it should be great to us I would think.

 

I want to see a 3d graph of the fuel map now lol. That would be really interesting to see. How much power does it make now? Any dyno graphs (on a dyno or by gps)?

 

Honestly my order of what to have in Cali is:
-presmog (1975 or earlier)
-OBD1
-OBD2 2000 or later
-OBD2 before 2000

OBD1 is up earlier because all you need to do is have a good tune and the cel turn on with ignition and off when running, which shouldn't be too hard. Easily make a standalone that runs great, makes more power, and makes it through smog without hot smogging. obd1 is the only way to get a standalone without presmog through smog for cheap. Else you pay up the nose for a hot smog.

 

My truck is 1997 with an original OBDII

 

i found my highway mileage was better as well. its all the mountain driving that kills my mpg's......still waiting for you to tr

haha for sure. gas just hit over $5 a gallon in my town... thank god for the indian casino thats only $3.91 a gallon

 

Glad that you arent in Cali or you would not be on s standalone, pushing your truck for us to see.

 

You actually can , not legally,
But you can unplug the haltech and plug the OEM back in and remove it all in less than 10 minutes for the state inspection,

It's extremely easy to swap back and forth
once it's tuned and it you keep the OEM maf section in place, that part can stay as it is plugged in with the haltech installed or remove it for a larger tube section

 

I disagree, because you have to set monitors in california, you can't just switch it out. It can take up to a week of driving to get monitors set. It might be easy to swap the ecu's out, but you still have to have monitors set from running the car for a while to pass smog.

 

Resetting the monitors is super easy with the exception of the Evap monitor. Which, if you’re vehicle is newer than the year 2000 is not necessary for passing Smog in CA.
My last smog passed with the evap not set. Then it took about 1800 miles to finally set. If not for that exception it would have been frustrating.
With John’s 1997 that might be a pain in the butt. But Colorado might also have different emissions rules?

 

My point being that this is the great thing for him. Cali sucks