PreRunner to 4x4 Swap (Smooth Brain Edition)

Haha seriously I wish I did delete it originally though

the illumination for the limit switch is not working. But I do hear a buzzing sound from the ADD.

 

@brian422’s bulb on his switch burnt out but it still works. Hopefully that’s the problem

 

I think a vacuum tube is missing here? Lol

 

yeah your junk is going to be filled with water and corrosion

 

OOF yeah this ADD is gettin ripped out lol.

With the ADD delete do you reroute that line vacuum line up to the hood?

 

One more retarded question, I took a video from under the truck in 4hi and the front drive shaft is spinning

Is it stuck in the engaged position?

 

in 4 hi the front driveshaft should be spinning.

 

Lol so it will spin but without the ADD actuated it will not transfer power to the front wheels

 

that's right.

 

I may have a few extra terminals for the cluster connector from when I wired my 4wd and 4lo lights if I can find them. Let me know if your light not coming on is related to the wiring and I can go look for the spare terminals.

 

Ooooof! Check this out. https://youtu.be/CLJY8mZ6GBA

when I did my conversion I extended all the vents(rear diff, front diff., Trx case, and transmission) to above the engine intake level. If the water reaches that level I know damn well I’ll be having more serious stuff to worry about

 

Well if I didn't think this was nearly impossible, I might have bought the two-wheel drive double cab long bed with bad motor I saw the other day. About the only way I thought it would be possible was with a complete frame swap

 

Not at all
Men we have a bunch of success stories. Cheers.

 

I need to do that next! Did you route the rear diff to behind the tail light or up to the engine bay?

 

Just ordered the parts from this thread to delete the ADD: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/
This electrical shit needs to go.

• x4 90107-12003 Bolt Hex - $4.72
• x1
  $25 90311-47013 Toyota Genuine Oil Seal for Differential Side Gear Shaft
  90311-47013 Output Shaft Seal - $13.25
• x2 90105-14171 Bolt Flange - $6.84
• x1 41321-35050 Tube Assembly - $116.97
• x1 41337-35050 Output Shaft - $171.61
• x1 90363-43001 Drive Axle Shaft Bearing (Left, Right, Front) - $18.22
• x1 90520-41014 Ring Snap - $3.29
• x1 90520-75002 Ring - $5.97

Total with Shipping - $457.81
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Not an expert's opinion since I forgot to put that breather line, but I think anyone doing the swap in the future should just do the ADD delete. Wish I took the extra step in reading about its drawbacks.

 

thats my old username lmao, the price of poker has gone up apparently.

That’s the way to go on the cheap, I see replacing with a solid shaft as a more robust solution in the lung term. That clutch hub has a little slop in it too

 

I will get you pictures tomorrow with proper Lightning, hang tight! And happy weekend fellas. I’ll be doing some skid plates CAD models over the weekend.

 

Cheers, here are the pictures of my vents and a video that shows part no’s, hose diameter and clamps.

https://youtu.be/l8WGZK1alsE

1- view of the rear diff. Vent




2- front diff vent.


3- transmission vent(transfer case vent can’t be seen but it’s right by where I did the circular marking)

the dorman vent I used is the following


And as you can tell my engine has some extra help.

 

I would like to add that I re-used the rear axle one since it has threads and I drilled a hole small enough to self thread it in place. As well, I re-used the ones on the transfer case and transmission, and tail section of the transmission that I left by the transfer case one (the ones that can’t be seen on the pictures)

 

LFG!