Fluid change insight on new-to-me tacoma

I’ll start off with specifications

it’s a 2007 prerunner SR5 with the 1GRFE engine and 5spd automatic transmission. Truck has only 69k original miles and all fluids I have checked appear to be very well maintained. I was not able to check the transmission fluid due to the transmission being sealed. However, I’d assume it’s up to par considering the rest of the fluids are solid. Truck also shifts very smoothly.

Regardless, I’m changing all of the fluids and starting fresh so that I know the CI’s. I initially intended on going with amsoil for the engine oil and filter, but was essentially forced not to due to supply chain disruptions. No dealers I spoke to, nor the amsoil website, currently have the filters for the Tacoma in stock. The oil is in stock, however I don’t feel comfortable using amsoil oil without the amsoil filter. So I decided to go with pennzoil ultra platinum 5W-30 and a Napa gold filter. My question concerning this is whether or not you consider this to be the correct path of travel? My goal initially in wanting to use the amsoil was because of the cold weather protection and additive/detergents package that amsoil offers. My goal is to clean out any deposits left by other lower quality oils and then extend the OCI to 10k after the filter starts to indicate that there is no more deposits being accumulated into the filter. I believe that the pennzoil in combination with the Napa gold filter will at least do something, considering the pennzoil does have more detergents than most other leading oil brands and that the Napa gold is able to filter 99% at 30microns (although I may be wrong about this. This is just information I’ve gathered from a culmination of other forum threads. I couldn’t find any data directly from Napa or wix). I don’t want to continue to use other synthetics or Dino oils and allow more build up until I’m able to get a hold of amsoil. Do y’all think this is a good compromise?

as far as the transmission is concerned, I’ve purchased a new transmission filter+gasket from Napa. As far as fluid is concerned, I’d like to go for a full flush and replace with either amsoil ATF or the Toyota WS. I’ve seen a few posts from people who claim that the amsoil ATF lead to better shifting and increased fuel economy, in addition to amsoil’s claims that it is better in cold weather just like their engine oils are. On the other hand, Toyota WS is cheaper and many people use this fluid for the life of their vehicle with no discernible issues. Thoughts?

what I plan to do with the differentials is essentially a mirror of the trans. Either amsoil or OEM fluids.

Additionally, do you believe that swapping to high end fluids like amsoil would aid in slowing engine/transmission degradation efficiently considering the truck has already had 70k miles/14yrs of normal wear from normal fluids?

Honestly, this is the first vehicle I’ve ever had that has no fluid leaks, low mileage, no issues, and is just over all very nice and I’m trying my best to keep it that way and make sure it’s around for a long time. Sorry if the way I’ve conveyed information and questions seems unorganized and messy. I’ve been looking into this stuff for about 2 weeks. Like I said, my original plans were to go with straight amsoil for everything but that was disrupted due to current supply chain issues. So it allowed me to think a little more about the how and why. No information I’ve found has provided any semblance of certainty toward any specific product or method. Maybe this post will only stir the pot a little more. But I’m at least hoping for some sort of insight from persons more experienced than myself.

 

This is my opinion, it matters none.

Run what ever 5w-30 you like.
Stick to 5k OCI

Ditch the WS fluid if you are changing it completely.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-get-it-out-of-your-transmission-now.331521/

DIY Trans Service
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

 

No need to do a flush on the transmission. Just do a drain/fill/filter.

Rear diff is easy.

Check the condition of the brake fluid, power steering fluid and coolant. At this age, it wouldn't hurt to change these.

Do you have any maintenance records?

 

Your pickup will not know the difference between the Amsoil oil/filter and the Penz/Napa you bought for the next 200,000 miles. Pick one and you are good to go.

I have 59K on my 2014. I just did the drain and fill yesterday for the first time. 2.9 quart out, 3.3 in, let overflow to trickle. I will do this every 30k miles going forward. Too easy not to. Perhaps a filter in 30-60k. My transmission is smooth as silk.

I will add, I had an 06 which had a jumpy trans. Once I did the drain and fill it smoothed out. Found out the newer 2nd gens were under-filled from factory.... Some were.

Good luck. Just put the fluids in that have the recommended rating. Don't get caught up with brand names, but use reputable brands.

 

thanks. This link is especially interesting. I pretty much figured the Toyota genuine fluid wasn’t all that great, considering it does worse in cold flow and longevity testing than aftermarket brands that are WS compatible.

 

Yea, the flush may not be necessary depending on what I find when I drain what’s in the pan. Either way, I’d like to do it for peace of mind. And I already have checked and flushed/replaced the brake fluid and power steering fluid. I am holding off on the coolant until the winter season is over. I like doing my coolant flushed with distilled water and don’t want water freezing in the system.

as far as maintanence records are concerned, I was not able to obtain any. But after seeing the trucks condition and feeling how well it drives and shifts, in addition to the cleanliness of all fluids I checked, I felt confident that it was well taken care of. Only off thing I found, which I discovered while draining the brake fluid, was that one of the tension springs for the right rear brake shoe had come out of its housing and was just flopping around in the drum. Other than that and a hole in the cool air intake, nothing was abnormal.

 

You're over thinking this. Use any oil and filter you want; it doesn't really matter as long as you change the oil every 10,000 miles with synthetic or 5000 miles with conventional.

I wouldn't touch the transmission. My 07 has 220,000 miles on the factory fluid and it still drives and shifts as new. I expect to make it to 400,000 miles without ever changing it like countless others have done.

 

you're overthinking it, just get oem filters and whatever oil is cheapest

grease your zerk fittings

 

Allow me to offer a reference for fluids and change intervals from the makers....Toyota.

The Owner's Manual.

IIRC, the oil change interval on the 2nd Gen 1GR-FE engine is 5000 miles. Oil viscosity is 5w30. Sorry, I forget the API grade. Although, the API grade on the store shelves will more than likely exceed the API specified in the OM.

Many will SHOUT the oil change interval is ok at 10,000 miles when using synthetic. But, the hard reality is.....none of the shouters know the engine better than the people who designed, tested and built it.

IMHO, oil changes based on Toyota's recommended interval won't hurt anything. Also, the cost of an oil change is minor compared to the problems a sludged engine can offer.

In the end, it is your choice.

 

You wanna get good oil and filters on the cheap? Buy the OEM filters online by the case. Buy the synthetic 5w30 oil at Costco. You’ll be getting Kirkland brand but comes from Warren Labs. About 28 bucks for 6 quarts it exceeds Toyota specs. Look below beside the power steering pump, that’s where they all leak. Some worse than others.

 

Somewhere, I think in here, there’s a very lengthy write up on oil filters. Very interesting the differences between good and bad ones. I read through the entire thing. Decided to use Napa gold filters. I’m not saying they’re the best of the good ones, just what I decided to do. I think most go with a Toyota filter.

As far as what brand of oil to use, how often, new drain plug gasket or not, torque wrench or no, fumoto or not, you can find multiple pages of people swearing the way they do it is the only correct way. It’s a deep deep rabbit hole with no bottom. The true Websters dictionary definition of infinity.

Since it’s new to you, unless you have maintenance records that aren’t made up, you’re doing what I would do with fresh fluids all around. I also felt more comfortable after pulling the wheel’s to look at the brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and pads.

Things happen, sometimes unexpectedly, even if you do stay on top of maintenance. If you get stuck, search or post a question. You’ll get an answer. Be specific, like you already did with your engine and transmission.

In the couple years I’ve owned mine, the best mod I did was adding a backup camera. Mine didn’t have one. I just could not not bonk the wall.

Next, drive it, enjoy it. Welcome to TW.

 

The OEM Toyota filter is actually pretty damn good, especially for the price. 5/30 Costco oil should be more than fine too. I sell and deliver Lucas and Starfire fluids for work and the Costco oil is supposed to be a home run for the money.

 

Oops, should mention there’s a short and tall oil filter, both fit fine, the tall one is the one to get. Napa gold part number 1516 is a tall one.

 

Yes get the tall bastard.

 

I really appreciate that response and train of thought. I also plan on adding a backup camera, as well as an aftermarket touch screen radio kit. But I wanted to get the maintenance items done first before I splurge on creature comforts.

Not sure what you’re getting at with the fumoto reference. I’ll have to look into that.

but yea, I’m really just trying to make sure that I can keep the vehicle as problem free as can be. I’m coming into this truck from a 1998 Ford Taurus with the horrid AX4N transmission and a lack luster service history in some areas that contributed to the car’s down fall. Spent a lot of time and money doing repairs to keep that car road worthy while I saved my pennies for something better.. guess I’m just afraid to find myself in the same position with the truck if I don’t maintain it properly. I do suppose I am over thinking the issue, like others have said.

As far as the oil filter is concerned, I had no idea there was a tall filter variant for the Tacoma. Napa never told me about it and I didn’t find one in the wix or amsoil variant. The more filter media the better is my train of thought on that. My Taurus had the same variant as well. I always went with the tall filter. So I will definitely be purchasing the taller filter and returning this shorter one that they advised me to get.

 

Gonna be honest. Your description of the tall oil filter brought my mind right to fat bastard from Austin Powers.

but yes, I will be getting the tall bastard. Thanks lol

 

The 4.0 deserves a good oil filter.

 

What a first post haha. I read through it and will toss out my opinion, for what little it matters.

Why do you think you need to run an Amsoil filter in order to run Amsoil oil? If you believe that they make a superior oil for application, run it. I'm not sure I see how that requires a matching filter brand.

As for the trans, you'll find most people on here go with Valvoline maxlife ATF, myself included. I did a drain & fill (plus a pan cleaning) at 90k. Just about to roll 95k and will be doing another D&F then, with one more after that to get most of the factory fluid out. If you want to do a full flush or several drain and fills is up to you. The only thing I would really recommend is going with an OEM pan gasket from Toyota. The one that came with the filter kit from Napa was noticably thinner and seemed to be a cheaper material.

 

I change my oil at 5k intervals per the manual and for the fact that I'm still under warranty.

However, Toyota specs it's oil change intervals based on what genuine Toyota motor oil is. 5w30 in GTMO is conventional...hence the 5k interval. Engines that call for 0w20 generally follow a 10k interval outside of extreme use because 0w20 GTMO is synthetic.....as is all 0w20 for that matter. However, 5w20 GTMO is conventional and other 5w20 oils can be conventional, blends or synthetics. So that's why the manual cautions against using 5w20. Not because it will hurt anything...but because Toyota understands that most people know nothing about what oil is in their crank case and doesn't want someone putting around in stop and go traffic for 10k miles on a conventional oil.

So you could do a 10k OCI if you're using a synthetic 5w30....if you chose to.

 

The Kirkland is a fine oil....as are all the Warren clones....SuperTech, Amazon Basics, Meijer, Harvest King and others