General Fabrication

operator probably didn’t shut the hopper door

 

Figure I'd post in here for fun. Over the years building wheelers I have always just used my fathers or works welders. Finally bought my first welder, and actually went the cheap route with the Harbor Freight titanium 140. Got it for $325 with a warranty, and can definitely tell the difference between it and a top of the line production welder like I used to use. But, it works pretty dang good for the money. Fine for most things I'm doing on my truck, as the max I'm usually welding is 1/4". So far I've ran this thing cranked to the max, and it hasnt skipped a beat. Gun feels a little flimsy though, so if it ever breaks/wears out, I'll just warranty the beotch
Figured I'd just throw it out there for the people on a budget, since its half price of the same Miller/Lincoln.
Spindle guessets the other day:

 

Looking good. Next time check out the JD Fab spindle gussets. Best fitting and best design gussets I’ve done of the few mfg’s I’ve tried. Had the heat a little high for the open corner welds but meh, these babies are solid

 

Yeah I looked into those but a buddy had the Tc ones laying around! Still need to add a guesset to the tie rod like the Jd fabs so I dont get the infamous crack near the wheel bearing

 

Hard to justify when he already had them laying around. But easy enough to ad a piece to gussets the tie rod. This is the second set of theirs I’ve done, first set was for me, and they’ve got the design dialed. And my truck has taken a ton of abuse since freshening up the front end last year and still straight and holding strong

 

Fun project. Wanted a removable bed rack for a Superlite. I started contemplating this concept when I was building the bed cage. Uses the bed cage and bedside stiffeners as a base.

Very pleased that my couplings slide together perfectly after welding everything and that I didn’t accidentally weld them together

A tire carrier is in the works, but has to take the back seat to supercharger install…

 

https://www.swagoffroad.com/

 

https://www.jd2.com/

 

Looking to upgrade the rear axle, I’ve been debating this swap for a while and I’ve heard every axle under the sun. Personally I’m wanting to go towards the Tundra axle and swap in a Detroit locker. Mainly because the tundra axle is wider and will match my front, anyone have any input on this swap or any others? I’m doing all the labor myself.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...m-lt-37’s-and-tundra-axle-swap.215653/page-40

 

1st gen Tundra axle go for it, 2nd gen to current I wouldn't. Diff is unreasonably big, and you might as well run a Ford 9 at that point for more strength and more clearence.

 

After doing the tundra swap myself earlier this year I’ll try to chime in. Benefits of the tundra axle are it is huge, like massive compared to the factory 8”. It matches a front 3.5” kit nicely, keeps toyota wheel speed sensors, upgrades you to disc brakes, and is beefy. The 10.5” ring gear and 36 spline shafts are overkill for a Tacoma for sure.

That said, there’s some things to consider. Limited aftermarket supports (although it is getting better), axles will need to be plugged and redrilled for the 6 lug bolt pattern since the tundra only comes in a 5 lug, and it’s not cheap. All said and done with mine I believe I was close to $6k which is the same price as a Currie 9” that can be ordered to a specific width you want, with toyota wheel speed sensors, and 6 lug axles.

About the only benefit I see to the Tundra axle after doing mine is you can say you did it and kept it all toyota. That and it’s probably stronger than the 9” but the 9” is a full float which is a better design. And you can upgrade the 9” to 35 or 40 spline axles to make them ridiculously strong as well

 

Can they fit the Toyota sensor rings on the full float version of the Ford 9?

 

https://www.justdifferentials.com/Ford-9-Rear-Axle-Housing-3rd-Member-Upgrade-p/nphtac-f9.htm

 

I think that’s semi float like your tundra or the ECGS Dana 60 version. Not knocking it, still extra robust.

 

Nope you’re right. Thought it was full float because it’s the 9”. But I guess the “bolt in” one isn’t.

 

Still awesome.

I’m torn between the Curry F9 with the convenience of a third, but the disappointment of the ARB orings, and the ECGS Dana with the inconvenience of an inspection cover diff, but the option of an Oxlocker.

I have time since I need to recover financially from a number of significant truck and car upgrades.

 

First gen Tundra is the same width, diff, and a downgrade in bearing type.

 

Has anyone made solid body mounts?