AGM BATTERY

seemed more like bits and pieces throughout this thread. thought i'd try to put it all together in one.

 

No, actually I'm not missing it at all.
If no one tells my truck, it won't miss it either.

I have been for years, and still am today, running AGM’s in everything from my Kubota Tractor and ZTR’s, to a Generac and scissor lift. All being charged by different forms and sources, and none giving me troubles.

 

lol. For most people it will never matter. I was running 3 group 27 AGMs in my truck (no little dual battery system for me!). The booster gave me a lot more usable capacity. Resting voltage was in the 12.6-12.7 range before, and 13.1-13.2 afterwards. My fridge and such appreciated the extra capacity available.

 

You understand it, I understand it, but these all or nothing threads do no favors for the majority that don't.
Happy holidays.

 

3 agms lol sounds like you should invest in lithium and drop 200 lbs

 

For Lithium, I just purchased 2 Lynx Batteries for our Geo-Pro camper.

On topic, for my Northstar Group 31 AGM starter battery, here's my install. The truck cranks faster, and I absolutely can't kill this battery. My group 24 OEM battery didn't have the reserve to to do much anything besides crank the engine (my buddy is still rocking it in his Gen 2). I have the KDMax tune (4:88 AGM WifeTip) from @PapaRee , and I'm loving it!

 

I stole @RyanDCLB ’s approach for my Tundra which had been blowing through batteries based on the PO’s info. I suspect the trailer brake controller harness (aftermarket addon) which I’ve disconnected and am rebuilding from scratch.

 

I dropped two of the three. And added a truck bed camper in place of the Habitat. I gained a helluva lot more than I lost!!

 

Thank you guys for your thoughts on the battery.

 

Need to state some new found info. With all this AGM talk, I thought I'd check the voltage of my AGM. 7am and 31*f it read 12.62. It sat all night in freezing temps.
I went for a drive(35min), waited 10 minutes and checked the voltage again, and got 12.77volts.

So I guess in sub zero weather, Higher voltage would help.

 

Went out this morning to head to the laundry mat. My OEM battery read 11.7 on the volt meter I have stuck in the dash. Little 4 popper would not start. Trucks warranty expired Oct. 19, 2021. So I'll jump it each time I need to go somewhere till the 15th of this month so I can charge a battery on my PayPal Credit (6 months to pay) Sucks being a disabled Veteran....

 

Those little battery jump boxes are nice to keep in your vehicles just in case.

 

I don't leave mine in the truck because of the cold winters and hot summers. I carry mine in and out with me when I go someplace.

 

I leave mine in the truck and charge it every couple months or so.

 

Found this article and found it interesting. Took a picture of the article if you don't want to check out the link.


https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/truestart-oem-toyota-battery-replacement

 

Try going to Toyota and see if they will do a good faith replacement, doesn’t hurt to try

 

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but no vehicle alternator will charge any battery to full voltage. The guy who said 10v is 80 percent of a full lead acid battery does not know how batteries work. AGM can charge safely up to 14.8v and rests higher than lead acid. An on board DC-DC charger will charge your batteries to full voltage if you want to make them last longer (this goes for all battery chemistry types)

 

Never thought of putting one between the Alternator and the Battery... but how would that work with a smart alternator? The ECU would read the alternator is charging at too high of voltage, telling the alternator to tone it back, the DC charger would then boost the voltage even further. I'm not sure how far the Smart alternator could reduce the output, but this does not seem like a feasible solution on a vehicle with a smart alternator.

 

I actually just had the Diehard Platinum 24F with the 4 year warranty installed in my truck.
Passed on the AGM battery. Got a $10 mail in rebate coming too.

 

A good DC-DC charger will have a sensor wire for smart alternators to adjust charge voltage and several charging stage profiles. Something to note is to choose a dc-dc charger that is rated below the amount of amps your alternator produces at idle. Victron and Redarc make top tier products that are user programmable and voltage sensing.