Is there a way to change the default Cruise Control?

I mean, I really didn't want it to come out this way in such a public forum but yes, your mother and I are having issues in the bedroom.

 

she would like U

3 seconds she dont break a sweat

 

The fact that the microphone is routed through the Data Collection Module is reason enough for me to disable the DCM. One could also unplug the DCM's RF cable that is plugged into the back of the head unit, but if you get really close to a cell tower it will still be able to sync up with the hive mind. I decided the fuse was easier.

 

Not aware of a way to permanently disable DRCC. Perhaps something a dealership could do in Techstream?

I'll admit, the dynamic cruise came with a learning curve. Over time, I learned the circumstances in which I should immediately cancel dynamic cruise...such as the car in front making a turn off the highway, or any huge difference in speed between me and the car I'm approaching.

Other than that, I dig it. I also like knowing the system could make the difference in a situation where I might react too late.

To each their own.

 

OK, the OP has another fan. I too would like the default type of cruise control to be selectable by the owner of the vehicle. We select user features in many things we use in our daily lives, why not the features on our vehicles?
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I would like to add removing the module on the front grill only makes things worse. All types of cruise control and the lane departure are both inoperable with constant dash warnings. I've driven many times without my grill in place.

 

Point your sensor up at the sky so it doesn’t pick anything up. That way it just goes like the old dumb CC.

 

I thought about that... then I remembered that overpasses exist and that kind of shit could activate Automatic Emergency Braking.

 

Even when you are driving under Cruise Control Classic, if you hit enough rain it still feels the need to tell you that the radar module and New Cruise is not available. My first thought was "I totally don't give a shit, Truck."

 

sounds like a big case of tough shit then

 

Since the only real responses I got were either 'I prefer constant speed cruise too,' and 'why would you want such a stupid thing?' yeah, you're probably right. The only option I likely have is wiring up an Arduino to trigger the 12V+ line that comes out of the cruise stalk for 3 seconds on start-up. It would be a pain, but the result would be the same, plus I'd get 'always-on cruise' which is a feature I have really missed since I sold my 95 Yukon.

 

I think I found my method of attack. I believe all I need to do is supply 12V+ for 3 seconds to the black wire leaving the cruise stalk.

Will still take some testing to trace it into the steering column/dash before it gets to the ECU, but I think it's doable.

 

Well, you probably won’t be happy hearing that your Tacoma also has brake assist then, which measures the speed and pressure that you apply the brakes, and if it thinks you’re panic breaking it will automatically give the brakes maximum boost and stop the truck with full force.

 

I think you just need to make contact between the Black wire and the White/Black wire. The white/black wires in our trucks are generally Ground. The Black wire you speak of I believe already has a voltage on it from the CCS.

 

I miss CC of the 80s and 90s when the pedal would move too.

Op can you get a wiring diagram of CC ? What happens if you cover the sensor

 

It doesn't just randomly hit the brakes. It will use them in the event the truck is closing in on the vehicle in front faster than the truck safely decelerate naturally.

Those people randomly hitting breaks are just people who are "driving scared."

 

Covering the sensor on the grille will yield a warning error on the dash and cancel the radar cruise until the obstruction is cleared. This also can happen when driving in heavy fog and snow as condensation can accumulate on the sensor.

Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack this from you. I just had this happen to me a month ago on I5 coming home from LA. Asked Toyota a few weeks late when i went in for service. They confirmed the fail safe if the sensor becomes obstructed.

@huskcummerbund if you do find a way to get the constant cruise control to be the initial button press, that would be super cool!

 

I am totally with you on this one. I have hated the adaptive cruise control ever since I was driving the truck home from the dealership when I bought it, and was using cruise control. As you said, the dang thing hits the brakes WAY before it has to, regarding coming up on another vehicle, even if you DO set the thing for maximum distance in the settings. And yes, holding down the button for the three seconds doesn't seem like much to some people here, but it IS annoying, especially if you are trying to drive down the road, hit and hold the button down for what you THOUGHT, was 3 seconds, only to discover when your truck slams on the brakes when you are half a block away from the vehicle in front of you, and then realize that the dang adaptive cruise control was on instead of CLASSIC Cruise Control. This has been one of my pet peeves ever since getting my truck. But it is among several, where I feel that we, as the vehicle owners, should be able to program various features such as this one, and others, to suit our own tastes. One slight example, I mean, the dang icons on the Entune system. While it lets you move them around, it does NOT let you DELETE any that you don't want to see or use. So even though I pushed most of them to the second screen, I still have to look at useless icons like Alexa, IHeart radio, etc that all require my to use my phone and therefore, mobile data. While this truck is certainly advanced and has a lot of good features, and rides good, I do think Toyota could do more to make it more user programmable.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sable-toyota-safety-sense-tss-p.557456/page-2
Post #35

 

Yeah. That was great for knowing what it was doing.

 

Dont literally point it up. You know how when we lift our trucks sometimes people need to put a shim (washer) under the bottom bolt of the sensor to point it back down? Do the opposite; shim the top so it’s looking just slightly above traffic.

Another option would be to stick some radar absorbing material on the front of the sensor. Sound deadening foam works great for that. Back when I worked for Honda the radar test station looked like a recording studios wall so the millimeter radar didn’t pick up anything but the aiming target.