Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yes, don't do it, it is too long (wide), especially for a stock length setup. Grab a @Basikbiker Tundra rack instead. Some notes and lengths in this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lc200-rack-steering-clevis.748044/

 

Definatly wouldn’t do a 200 series as they are very different than a Tacoma rack and I don’t like the tundra rack because if it fails you are SOL until you can source another machined one. This is a big reason why we stuck with the Tacoma rack... they are easy to source anywhere in the US, Canada and Mexico

https://jdfabrication.com/collections/05-15-6-lug/products/2005-2015-tacoma-steering-slide-rack

 

I thought about that actually. I knew i was going to be advised against it lol. I just don't know anything about slide rack TBH. Really don't want to throw on 35's and be 100's of miles from home and have my Tacoma rack blow.

 

This. And it flat works. I've stuffed my 37's hard a good handful of times with no problems. Once I finally have it booted, it's going to be a bullet proof setup. I still find myself flinching on a hard hit anticipating another broken rack, but that day hasn't come, and I don't expect it to after the beating it's taken already.

 

I had 35s for years, flogged the shit out of my truck and never had issues. But I now have the JD slide rack and Howe steering so I can keep that good track record intact. I also went with the slide rack just because of the ease of sourcing a rack easily for a trail repair in case bad things were to ever happen.

 

That video is my motivation to get the truck running again. I need to go run that wash out and see how it all works.

 

I’ve gotta hit flex hill every trip there because it seems like every trip there’s something new on the truck. Now it’s just a walk in the park.

 

Thats what's nice about soft ground lol. I never had a rack go being rough in the soft stuff. But most of our ground is HARD. I went through at least a rack a summer before the slide rack. Even on 33's.

 

There's a shitload of time to spend learning enough to ask intelligent questions, but you have to start by asking the basic ones. Sadly, I haven't seen any great write ups on doing a 4-link taco to start you out, but the MidTravel BS thread has a good intro on the first post. And the LT forum has a sticky post with a bunch of good reading.

Bottom line is that you have to start with "ideal" geometry, which will be from an ultra-4 car (based on your goals), then work backwards into the packaging constraints of the Taco. If (when) I link mine I plan to back-half the frame and rebuild it all with tube to limit those compromises.

It's also not a bad idea to take some time and learn a CAD program enough to do real drawings, makes life allot easier than trying to do it all on paper.

 

Yeah, you made that look easy.

 

I live in AL, real close to @Dayman Karate. The south mud slipping off rocks and shit tears up racks. I've seen a couple of guys I've ridden with tear up their racks. Of course they did have 35X12.50 but still haha. Id rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it lol. That's the kind of person i am. That being said hows the slide rack work?

 

I’d think long and hard if this is a science project you really want to get involved with. For the type of wheeling you do sticking with leaf springs is probably the better option. I will say when my Trekker had leaf springs all the way around it easily did every hammer trail. In the rocks I noticed no difference by going to a 4 link and actually started breaking axle and transfer case parts because 4link transmits the power through the drivetrain more directly. Leaf springs absorb a ton of shock load and keep drivetrain parts happy.

If you want to 4link the truck for a learning experience and project I totally respect that... personally I’d keep it simple so you can spend more time wheeling and most importantly spend time with your family. 4 link projects are good for single guys in their early 20’s

 

I’ve used Autocad and SW extensively, but no license any longer. That being said, I can do enough with pen and paper, excel and indesign to get by. I’ve been playing around with some rough measurements in the four link calculator just seeing what happens when I change yada yada. When I have more solid measurements I’ll screenshot the spreadsheet and get some feedback. Looking at chopping at least back to the bump pad on the frame. I need a stock reference point for now haha I’d sure enough be lost in empty space right now.

 

A good free cad option is fusion360 its similar to solidworks but not as many features...but its free and easy to make dxf files for plasma cutting

 

I stay away from mud at all costs and I can see how you can break things quickly slogging thru that shit. I’m more of a high speed desert guy….But, the slide rack has been perfect so far… it’s really helped tighten up the front and make the steering much more responsive. Not a drop of fluid leaks from my rack…. But if I was a mud guy I would definitely try to figure out how to boot up the ends.

 

If you have a FJ or 4runner, and are going with the slide rack I think the Tacoma rack has some advantages to offer with its additional rack throw.

That's actually why I like the idea of the 200 rack. It's available through out the world same day/ next day delivery and only costs around $500. The Land Cruisers are the prevalent Toyota Offroaders out side of the states. The rack is wider and I think the only way to mitigate jacking up your steering geometry would be a fabricated spindle and appropriately placed pivot location on that spindle, so in truth it only works properly for 2% of the folks here. Which is why the JD Fab Tacoma solution is the most appropriate solution. I like the variable spacers in the inner tie rod points too.

Some of the truest words on this thread.

 

I hate mud as well but it is impossible to stay away from unfortunately on this side of the country. Its just an accepted part of the game. Just have no idea how slide rack works? Like does it work with my factory master or is that another expense to upgrade?

 

Those are very good points and I’m sure you are right. Makes sense that rigid links will transmit more energy to the driveline and frame. I haven’t seen a leaf set up that will get the travel I’d like to get though. Your SUA is probably closest, but it’s all up travel over my last kit. Seems like there are trade offs for everything, but links might be a good fit. A lot of it is to learn as I’m sure this won’t be the only truck that gets linked/built in my lifetime. If it ends up being total poo, nothing’s permanent and anything is possible. I’m all ears for other options for the rear besides linking though.

 

Think of the slide rack as a gusset for your stock steering rack. You keep your steering rack but also add the slide rack to it.

 

Ok cool. So i would assume there would be some sort of instructions or its just you need to know how to do it lol?