What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I tried to grab these in 315 75 16’s but they were all backordered. Settled on the trail country exp, since I couldn’t argue with the price at 4wp for a set of 35’s.

 

Made more progress on my sound damping. Got the back quarter panels done , the rear wall and the rear cubby’s. Going to pull the carpet out tomorrow.

 

got mine from 4wp as well took them almost a month to get all of them in , just under 1k mounted and balanced so not too bad.

 

Sprung a leak in my radiator last weekend. My replacement is due Friday. I have also been putting off valve adjustments, so I thought I'd start dis-assembly for both tonight.

Wait, why would I need a cutoff wheel for a radiator removal? (and who removed the guard )



Oh, forgot, I live in the rustbelt. No bolt or nut is just going to come out without a struggle. Both lower bolts looked like this and refused to break loose:



There's no finesse in working on a 25 yr old truck in the rust belt. You just force for it to tap out.





Also discovered my water pump has significant play in the bearing. I am going to be delayed putting it back together until I can get a replacement.

 

Sweet a crawl box and super charger. Did you go with the 4.7 gears?

 

If the power steering pump you have is OEM don't buy a new one, rebuild it. It's pretty easy. This thread, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-how-to-with-photos.377002/ will show you how to do it.

Here are links for rebuild kits.

4 Cyl 2.7 3RZ rebuild kit: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~power~steering~pump~04446-04020.html
6 Cyl 3.4 5VZ rebuild kit:https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~power~steering~pump~04446-04010.html

 

Remove the belt and it should be obvious if the pump bearings are bad. They are journal bearings.

 

I was going to replace the PCV valve and the grommet and of course the 22 year old grommet had other ideas. Sneaky bastard. So off comes the valve cover. Pretty sure it has never been removed. A prime example of modern oil and proper drain intervals treating a hard working 4 banger right.

 

Perdy

 

Got the bed sprayed from Line-X. Waiting on the tire rack from N-Fab to come in and will also be mounting the pro-eagle jack.

 

Thanks I saw the rebuilt kits were pretty inexpensive. Thanks for the links!

Thanks for the tip, I thought about it after walking away for an hour and came to the same conclusion.

 

What fails the most on these pumps? I’ve gone through three this year, theyve blown after some high rpm’s and wheel cranking… part store pumps

 

Looking for opinions!

Im laying down dynamat/dyna liner in the cab and the plan was to replace the carpet with a vinyl floor. But I’m wondering if it would be a better idea to keep the carpet and just put the vinyl floor over the top. For extra sound damping. My thoughts are the reason to remove would be to avoid having wet carpets that have the potential to get moldy under the vinyl. But on the contrast I’ve never really had water issues…

what do you guys think?

 

best thing to add to the floor is Mass loaded vinyl. The floor is already pretty stiff so it doesn't resonate as much as say your doors do. Then I'd put the carpet on top of that for a bit more absorption(not a lot really) and diffusion.

 

+1 to mass loaded vinyl. Even if you never dealt with water ingress in the cab yet, if it happens once you will hate yourself for not installing something that is naturally moisture resistant. Also trying to have the current panels close down on something as thick as jute padding + carpet + vinyl will also be a huge pain in the dick.

 

yeah I’m using the dyna liner. That’s their version of MLV. So maybe I’ll just skip the carpet and finish with just the vinyl top. End result being: dyna mat, dyna liner and then vinyl floor

 

So I chased down my noise to a bad idler baring.
Is it possible to just replace the baring? It has a snap ring holding it in but I didn't see a part # when looking at diagrams.
Anyone have good luck with the aftermarket pulleys/idler barings ?

 

If you are still running the OEM idler pulley, then yes, just replace the bearing.

 

It's easier to just replace the whole pulley but while you wait for it to arrive if you need one shipped you can rebuild the bearings that are going bad. Just punch out the bearing with an appropriate sized socket and remove the rubber seals. Clean them out and repack with grease. Then repeat in reverse order. You'll have a spare afterwards.

 

First off, aftermarket pumps suck. The one I tried only lasted a year, and was noisy from the get go. Good thing I saved my OEM pump. Rebuilt it, and it's still going strong. On the 5VZ pump the rebuild kit is just O-rings. There is no bearing, so it must be bad O-rings. The 3RZ pump does have a bearing, so obviously it could be that too.