(finally fixed) Crank, crank, Craaaaank, won't start thread...

That’s a possibility. A good possibility.
I didn’t think of that, it’s too early. Lol
At least it’s a problem that doesn’t really “cause” a problem.

I got to install a drop ceiling in a house today. Not looking forward to it either.

If I’m not on the forum much to keep updated. It’s because someone forgot to charge their phone last night. Lol

 

Tnshooter

Dm93

THANK YOU for leading me into the last day or so of troubleshooting. Y'all definitely saved me from having to go to the dealership and getting ripped off of big $$$ and having to leave the truck there for 3 weeks or whatever.

 

Hopwfully it's permanently fixed although I'd still get another key made, never a good idea to only have 1 key to a vehicle.

 

Update. Again

@Dm93 made me do it. Lol

My light will stop flashing if in the OFF position. But only in certain position.
I think it’s safe to say, the unlock switch is worn.

If I turn the key all the back and hold it.
The light stops flashing. Same thing if I apply slightly forward pressure on the key.

Oh well. That’s a problem that’s “not a problem”. I can live with it. Lol

 

OEM Keys do not use a battery. The Aftermarket cheapo keys do use a battery. They were being sold by Ace hardware...

 

Ah so this is making sense now, if the battery in the key was dead or weak it would intermittently not work.
Very interesting, I didn't know this was a thing.

 

I didn’t know they either.
I think OEM issues some manic magnetic impulse to generate a small charge in the OE key.

Yeah. I said magic. Because I don’t understand it. Lol

 

Oh well, this episode probably saved me from being dead on the road with a bad fuel pump. There was a good layer of smudge at the bottom of my tank. I don't even know how it went this long on the factory fuel filter.
We'll just call this a week of air/fuel system preventative maintenance. LMFAO

 

Hopefully, if someone else is having issues, a search will lead them to my dumbass thread :/

 

Thats exactly how they work, the coil on the lock cylinder induces a current in the coil on the key and powers the chip in the key just long enough to transmit it's ID.
They actually make a tool to test the transponder coil on the cylinder, its just a coil circuit on a PCB with an LED on it.

 

It is a dumb thread. Lot of good info here.

 

Good lord boys. This drop ceiling job just turned in to a furniture moving job too.

WTF. Alright play time is over.
Catch up with you all later.

 

Not really dumb, you would be suprised how many people don't think of the immobilizer as a cause for a no start.
I don't see it too often but every once in awhile we get one that someone brings as a no start and it has a shiny new key with no chip in it, we get them to bring the original and it starts right up.
The other one that gets people (even me the first time I encountered one) are those bling rings, they put them around the ignition cylinder and they block the signal between the key and transponder.

 

Should edit the title to include “Fixed” maybe add a word or two about what the issue was.

 

Good idea.
But I'm not going to call it official fixed for a few days. :/

 

Yes exactly like an RFID Credit Card.

 

My .02. The chip in my key had deteriorated somehow and resulted in a crank but no start scenario. It's a very long story, but concluded with using the spare unused factory spare chip key and all was good. In the mean time, I had changed out the fuel pump. Something I learned which I wished I would have known; the fuel pump runs when the starter is engaged, NOT when the key is switched to the on position. Every car I've ever owned with fuel injection and an electric fuel pump runs the pump when the key is switched to the 'on' position. You can hear it and it clicks off when pressure is reached. I used this as my confirmation that the pump wasn't working and went down a long unnecesary road. I turned the key to 'on' and didn't hear the pump, and never would have til I started cranking. Learned a lot, but it sucked!

 

This is the reason my first question to people with a no-start or start/stall is if they have a flashing security light, people sometimes go down a rabbit hole for a simple security issue.

 

Yes, exactly! In my case, the factory security has been disabled the whole time I've owned it until now. LoL, i didn't even know it had that system. My anti-theftsecurity was simply my transmission baaaaaahahaha and my secret clutch safety sensor kill switch.

 

I'm going to link this other thread here, just to help if people are searching

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/not-getting-fuel-to-engine.597726/page-6#post-26724709