3.4L supercharger

it only wants to be at 180-200 naturally aspirated. I can feel the power difference right before its at full temp

 

Yes, I’m going to say thats in the OEM map setup tune for warm up not the temperature making a difference between 160 and 180

 

180 is the idea temp for the metal components internally. Nothing about power. 180 is the temp for most engines period.

 

oof you burst my bubble with that one... thats got to be it.

 

I've read a lot of great information between this thread and the rebuild thread. I’m thinking about supercharging my 1998 4Runner, but not looking to build a whole lot of boost. Just want some help getting up some mountain grades.

From what I’ve gathered there are a few high milers out there that have just slapped on SC’s with no issues. My truck’s got 230k miles on it and runs like a top. I’m going to do a compression test and ensure that all is well before I do anything.

From what I’ve understand if I just want to run a ‘stock’ supercharger as they’d come from the dealer I need to:

• Find a SC and all hardware
• Get a 170 degree thermostat
• Run Premium through the tank before hand (ideally a few cycles)
• Different injectors (read that 98’s have smaller fuel spray nozzles – can someone confirm?)
• Get cold iridium spark plugs
• AFR gauge or boost gauge (or both)

I’ve read a few conflicting arguments that the fuel pump and fuel filter needs to be replaced but seems like a few people have just slapped them on regardless. Is that really necessary?

My truck has a manual transmission, so no need for the zip kit or an external tranny cooler. Prior to installing the SC I will be changing out all the drivetrain fluids and replacing them as well as the valve cover gaskets and what not.

Last question – for those of you who live in CA or AZ where it gets warmer, is this an issue for the SC’s? I know that they make things run a little hotter so would just like a little more input on that.

Can’t wait to hopefully slap my SC on, and I appreciate all the info that’s been on these threads. I feel like I have a pretty good grasp as to what is needed.

 

IMO, you also need a way to manage fuel and timing. By default, the ECU has no way of knowing you've added a supercharger and the two will not play nice together without some outside help.

 

I live in Scottsdale 300,000+ miles stock injectors, fuel pump is stock but 2 years old. I wouldn't worry about injectors with stock pulley size. A water/meth injection system helps with pinging issues. I also run 1/3 of a can of VP Fuels Ocutane octane booster with every fill up of premium fuel. AFR and boost gauge are a must.

 

I finally got afr wideband installed. what should I be seeing with wide open throttle. driving casually its in the 14s and during WOT it is usually about low 12's to low 13's... It seems way too lean to me

 

WOT=10.5-11-12

 

I usually see low to mid 11s at WOT

 

Haltech you adjust your AFR number in the fuel map section to any number you want and your golden on the entire rpm range,
Such a game changer system

 

Why did you go with the 2000 model over say a 950?

 

479,999mi

 

I view it as a gentler climb. Load will dictate the swing and ramp rates but 160 gives you more margin... good thing when warming up, bad thing if letting it cool then driving the piss out of it (greater thermal shock)

 

I have the stock 2.7 pulley. (i think that's the size) time to go smaller. Who's got a good one they want to part with?

 

It has more options and more expandable if I want to add something later down the line.

 

IIRC, the options are 750, 1500 and 2000, at least through snp speed. I chose the 2000 for a couple of reasons. First, it was recommended for the 5VZ-FE and it also has the ability, on top of everything else, to control/manage a methanol controller.

 

so I guess I wasn't pedal to the floor because tonight at wot I saw it hit as low as 11.6