Electronic 4WD delete // Tacoma Rat Rod Conversion

All right here we go. I sold my 2016 tacoma for way more money then it’s worth. Bought a 1939 International D2 PickUp and putting a 4wd reg cab tacoma chassis under it. Keeping the abs and using swapping transfer case for a NP205. I’m dropping a cummins R2.8 And Tremec tr-4050 in it and putting a built dana 60 in the rear. All of this sitting on the higher end OME suspension and custom leaf pack.

the abs is controlled on its lonesome just buy wheel sensors. So that is easy.

but the 4wd is all digital in these damn things. How am I going to swap t-case and still get the front end to engage the ADD

thanks for your help.

 

Maybe try this?


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...or-diff-actuators.695818/page-2#post-24624748

 

Other alternative is drop an auto FJ case in with the AWD FJ tube and eliminate all the electronics. Theres a few different threads on it and lots of folks here who have done it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/

Edit: I apparently wasn't reading the first time around about swapping tcases. No need for the FJ case if that's the route you end up going. Either swap the ADD tube for the AWD tube or manually slide the ADD over and unplug it.

 

I wanna see more of the fire truck in the background

 

With all the work that’s going to be done. This seems like the best option.

 

Lets fucking go! I'm rooting for you brother!

 

so different engine, different t-case, different trans, different rear end. The taco ecu is being used just to actuate the front diff? I'd echo https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...or-diff-actuators.695818/page-2#post-24624748 then.

but really, keeping the front ifs doesn't seem well matched to the build plan.
props if you can make this happen; it'd be different for sure.

 

Even easier, some folks doing the FJ swap just manually slide the ADD over and leave it unplugged. No need to even dicker around with the ecu and custom switches or wiring or swapping tubes on the diff.

 

Damn, sounds like a hell of a project. Like others said the FJ swap is probably the "easiest" way to go.

But in theory you could also manually control the ADD with a switch, an indicator lamp, and little bit of relay logic to monitor the limit switches. I think..

Also what part of the state are you in?

 

You may have to rig up something to keep the sleeve slid over as it can just as easily slide around. I'm thinking of doing a plate where the add actuator sits and welding on an arm to keep the add sleeve in place and engaged

 

Well the main reason is maintaining the ifs geometry, the rear end geometry, I absolutly love how the tacoma handle and drive! And on top of all of that. There are amazing suspension setups that are just bolt on and they will exist for ever!!! The other reason is I need some kinda of base platform for parts as far as brakes and ac/heat components go!
My other option was a rubicon. But as it’s a daily driver and I loved my 2016 tacoma I didn’t want to be thrown all over the place with straight axles. The end goal here is not to make some crazy crawler. The goal is to make a half million mile truck that will take the abuse of daily driver for life.

 

im def going to look into this option. So this would be Awd all the time. Seems like as a daily driver this would be hard on tires and millage.

 

No, it wouldn't give you AWD all the time unless you swap in an AWD tcase. All you're doing is eliminating the actuator and the disconnect in the axle tube of the diff. Everything else works the same. No reason your mileage or tires should suffer. I could make an argument for the bearing in the diff tube wearing out faster, but that's about it.

I have 20k or so on mine with no issues or I'll effects that I'm aware of.

You really planning to daily this thing?

 

Wouldn't it be easier to put the truck body on a donor Chevy chassis and gear. The put Tacoma badges on the side and tailgate.

 

I predict this is one of those projects that never goes anywhere.

 

Chevy chassis doesn’t have the right wheelbase.

 

Considering I just put 30k of cash from selling the 2016. And every penny is going into this. Yeah… it’s allready happening.

 

it’s not only the plan. It’s the just what’s going to happen. I don’t want some truck with all these fancy bells and whistles for 30-50k. I just want something that no one else has and is cool as fuck. And the entire driveline is just dumb solid. I really am only using the taco base because of acces to parts and incredible ifs geometry for 4x4

 

Intersting ideas, but building a custom truck and wanting to keep ABS? We spend money/time stripping the ABS out of custom rides and flashing ECUs to delete it cause its so damn intrusive. But you also want to run a D60 and taco IFS so I cant really put myself in your shoes anyways. If I absolutely had to keep ifs then it would be pre taco as its way more robust without a steering rack.