TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

It draws in air from the primary intake air tube just like OE, but it also draws in air from the front. The foremost of the intake charge coming from the side as it is the path of least resistance versus the front, as it takes a lot of bends to arrive to that point.

Definitely stay away from a snorkel (excuse me, I mean dorkel). Those can be bad news for boosted setups.

 

Thanks. It's a 14 w/ a 30...perfect for one or two but it's a little cozy for the family so I'll probably be replacing it with an aluminum fish/ski boat in a few years once the kids are a little bigger.

 

My next guess was actually a 14 footer. I almost bought one when I was first looking at them, but I wound up getting me a bass boat instead. That 30 sounds a bit small for what it is. Are you HP restricted in the waters you run in?

 

Save some cash - @scootter82 is selling one.

 

The third gens may have different mounting patterns than the 2nd gens though.

 

If you were closer id just give it to you

 

I'm confused. Both Scotter's post and Georgeth1022 link to the same product. Where does third gen come into play?

 

Oh are they the same part number? I wasn't looking at that. Shoot, that's perfect then!

 

Most of the time I'm just trolling but it'll run 25mph with 2 in it. Hull is rated for 50hp but I have no intention of replacing the outboard since this gets the job done and it is going to be replaced with a larger boat eventually.

 

What AFE intake do you have? I have the TRD Gen1, which is essentially an aFE product.

Just buy the volant ram air scoop, cut a hole in the aFe airbox, and rig up the same with a flange and some silicon couplers.

BUT! At the moment, @scootter82 has the best deal for what you're asking.

 

That's like mine. It's rated for 50 but I did a 60 HP conversion mod on my 50HP that came with it to increase the overall output power and put a hydraulic jackplate on it and the rig runs just fine with the setup.

I think most of these manufacturers are underrating the hulls actual HP capabilities so they can sell you a larger rig, so I go by the Coast Guard formula for figuring out max HP and on my 17' it's rated for 130 HP. Lol. To hell with Tracker and their ratings.

 

I’ll be selling an Afe with Coupe cover here in the very near future too. Won’t fit with my fender mod.

 

Volant is a less popular one from my experience. I'd get the dry filter version regardless. You could consider keeping your aFe and getting that fiberglass hood with the functional scoop. It accommodates the aFe airbox. Only works on 12-15 models.

 

I'll check if I still have mine... I'm down to send it your way

 

Thanks, shipping really won’t be too expensive or difficult. @Murphinator is going to put eyes on his later and then see if he has some cardboard to box it up and whatnot but if that doesn’t pan out then I’ll hit you up. I appreciate it.

 

Yea the ease of having everything to do the job is what has me leaning towards them. I ordered the plastic hose already. I had emailed urd and got a response which was good. He recommends I go with the dw255 instead though.

 

what is this plastic hose? I've seen it mentioned a few times but not sure I ever saw a link on it. I used their kit, didn't order anything else

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/improving-the-urd-fuel-pump-kit.308651/

Sounds like you'd be fine without it too, but I already know since my ass was thinking about it, I better do it or sure as shit it's going to fail on me for trying to leave it to chance

 

Well urd recommended the dw255 and he had it in stock right now so figured fuck it and just ordered that. Ready to get over this already lol wish me luck

 

Installed the Ripp Coil Packs Ver2.0 yesterday. (Along with another set of Rutheniums. Old set had about 10k miles.) No CEL, no pending codes, started right up again.

1. The wiring harness plug on (Cyl 2)was hard for me to attach onto the RIPP coilpack. Due to lack of slack and space. Difficult but do-able.
2. The stock coilpacks (driver-side) need to be wiggled out in a specific orientation/angle due to space constraints. Also difficult but do-able.
3. Had to pay extra attention not to cross-thread the driver-side spark plugs when installing. Due to weird number of u-joints and wobble extensions.
4. Not the easiest thing tightening down and torqueing to spec the driver-side spark plugs.
5. RIPP coilpacks definitely had to be press/held in place while tightening the 12mm bolt.

No data.....no dyno....no f*cks given. I don't plan on removing them. Truck feels gooood.