Any PC Builders Out There?

I have an RX 550 and do not have that issue, but I don't game on PC (obviously, not with an RX 550). Years ago I had more issues with Nvidia drivers than ATI/AMD, either that or just the quality of the cards themselves. This was after 3dfx went under, which I hated to see (Voodoo, anyone?), and maybe I just didn't like that Nvidia swooped in. But I have to say, Nvidia is probably a better choice for now.

 

I have two slightly different size monitors, by different companies. My primary display is an LG 32" IPS monitor, and my secondary is an HP 27" IPS monitor.

I just checked, and everything is set the same for both monitors:
Desktop and Active signal Resolution are both: 1920 x 1080
Refresh rate (Hz): 59.940 Hz
Bit depth: 8-bit
Color format: YCbCr444
Color space: Standard dynamic range (SDR)

My video card only has two HDMI ports, so each monitor is plugged into a separate port.

 

I'm getting it on everything, from surfing the web to playing games...and it sucks!
I've had Nvidia cards in the past, and this was my first Radeon card. Frankly I had no issues for the first two years. Not sure if it is related to an update, or if it started after upgrading to my 32" LG monitor. It didn't happen immediately after I bought my LG monitor...that would be much easier to trouble shoot.

 

Really random question, do you have a space heater on the same circuit? At my office desk, one of my monitors will have the video output drop for 2 or 3 seconds every five or so minutes if I have my foot heater on. If I turn the heater off I have zero issues.

 

No space heaters or anything I can think of on this circuit. Pretty sure the refrigerator is on a separate (Kitchen) circuit, and the heat pump is definitely on it's separate circuit.

 

It's an LG monitor, problems with those in the past so I wonder...

Trying to find a hot swap but not coming up with anything under $300 because my last one bit the dust. Ideas?

 

Dell/Alienware finally opened up sales of their new QD-OLED panel. First to market. Reviews are stellar.

Alienware 34 Inch Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell Canada

That price hurts but it's still cheaper than an OLED TV which will burn in.

 

ALMOST complete with the build!

Here's a link to my nerd thread I've been updating:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-computer-and-3d-printer-build.748529/page-5

Some highlights:

• 5900x in
• Bitspower 3080 Gigabyte Gaming OC block on
• New and hopefully much quieter PSU on the way (HX850 from Corsair)
• 2tb Samsung SSD to replace my old HDD
• Custom flat 8 pin cables I ordered over a month ago are still sitting somewhere in China

 

Been working on an old ~2015 Acer 575 - I replaced the battery with this one in December last year because of it not holding charge and not even working when plugged in.

DMKAOLLK New Replacement Battery for Acer Aspire E15 E5-475 E5-475G E5-575 E5-575G E5-575T E5-575TG E5-774 E5-774G E5-575G E5-575G-33BM E5-575-52jf AS16A7K AS16A5K AS16A8K 14.8V 2600MAH

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P25DJPZ?ie=UTF8

It seemed to "fix" it. However the past few days it's been doing the same thing and I'm trying to keep it going. No visible damage to the charge jack and / or battery wires. Still says "Critical Low Battery" with the charger plugged in and no LED is showing on in the usual place that turns on when it's plugged in. I'm assuming there's no voltage getting to the battery and eventually the low battery warning will not appear when the battery has no juice.

Not sure if it's the battery, the charger, or a component that delivers power from the charger / battery. I'm used to diagnosing truck issues with a multimeter but not sure if I can do that with a computer with the tools I have.





Update:

The computer won't turn on even with the battery unplugged - does that rule out the battery?

When I press the power button with the charger plugged in and the battery plugged in, I get an amber LED flash 5 times but the blue LED (on when plugged in normally) still isn't on.

When I press the power button with charger plugged in and the battery unplugged, I get no amber LED on.

When I press the power button with the charger unplugged and the battery unplugged I get no amber LED on.

I'm ordering a replacement charger that I can return.

Also considering a gaming laptop as a productivity (video, programming, data analysis platform) machine. Some Ryzen 5 and 7 w/ 3050 and 1650 for $600-900. Recommendations in that price range (used)?

 

Flat 8 pins?

 

it’s a gigabyte 30 series thing. Weird af lol

 

Ah good ol giggle-bomb.

 

Should be able to build Monday

 

First build?

Already got a GPU?

 

Last build was 6700k so it's been a few years, gpu shows up Monday.

 

Hey all right that is awesome my guy!

What GPU did you manage to snag?

I built a new personal build about 2 years ago and I'm currently in the process of water cooling it, it's a 9900k base system my last personal build before that was a 2600k so I know the struggle!

 

I snagged a 3070ti two weeks ago for $859 but they're starting to become readily available. I ordered 6900xt as the MSI dropped to $1199 plus a $50 rebate. Will return 3070ti once I have the MSI card in.

And yes I know everything will be outperformed in 6 months but I think that's pretty much always the case got tired of waiting

 

I wouldn't worry about being out performed, so long as your machine does what you need it to do in the time and quality you need it to do it don't even bother looking at what's new or you'll never be satisfied.

You got a great rig by the parts sheet enjoy it be happy!

A card in hand is better than two in the mail.

That said I might be interested in the 3070ti if you can't get a full refund.

 

I don't think I'll have an issue since I didn't open it, but it's Newegg so who knows. But they are available to ship for those that want one now.

https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-gv-n307tgaming-oc-8g/p/N82E16814932443

 

stoked to see the water cooled build!!