The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

O’Reilly’s sells them for like $4 each. You can order online and pick up in store. I bought 2 that way so I have a spare that I can tuck away in case it fails on the road.

 

I’m up here in Canuckistan, I’ll have to find a local source or a place like eBay or Amazon.

 

Hmm, I could buy this and start claiming I have a boosted Taco...

 

It’s also a fuse and although it “shouldn’t” blow you should still carry spares, maybe not four but if one went, it might not seem too many.

 

Agreed! I have the Ford one and haven't even thought twice about keeping a spare on hand. These diodes are used on many Ford vehicles including F250's, F350's and E250-450 (ie commercial or emergency vehicles with high electrical system demands). I have been working on cars both professionally and as a hobby for almost 20yrs and have never seen one fail. I'm not saying it's impossible, but very unlikely. They have to be reliable as many of those vehicles serve very important purposes, Ford cannot allow a part this small and simple to fail on emergency vehicles...it would ruin their reputation.

 

A spare fuse is adequate emergency protection. You don’t need to be charging at max voltage in an emergency situation.

 

I could be wrong but that Littelfuse diode is absolutely NOT a fuse and shouldn't be used without an in-line fuse in front of it. Not being critical, just don't want someone burning down their truck. Lots of smarter people over in this thread who can explain.

In general I agree. No need for more than 1 in most cases. I bought 2 for the following reasons that suit my preference:

1. In case either is dead on arrival at least I still have one that works
2. Spending an extra $4 now is cheaper than my time & gas will cost to get another one later
3. I'll have the extra on hand if I want to do the same upgrades on my other vehicle (old Jeep XJ)

 

Yeah, for myself, I prefer overkill and bought 2x MK3's Just didn't want others to feel as compelled to do so themselves if they didn't want to.
I'm running unprotected diode-only via add-a-fuse right now, sort of like not wearing a seat belt, while I wait on arrival of the mk3's. I bought an inline module from singer but took it apart and really didn't like it.

I also have a spare mk2 I got and can't use, just been too lazy to list it. HKB has refreshed stock on MK2 and MK3:

https://www.hkbelect.com/product/206-mk3-micro-blade-75a-electronic-fuse-version-2017/
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/155-mk3-mini-blade-75a-electronic-fuse-version-2011/

 

Worked out a solution of charging at the 14.4v (diode engaged for a duration of time (programmable to whatever I want it to be), then falling back to the stock voltage for trickle charging for the longer duration trip or until I start my vehicle again. For now I have the charge at 14.4v for 30 minutes, then cut out the diode for the lower 13.7v

Have a question about how much time would need to be at 14.4 volts to recover the energy required to start the vehicle, guessing at the 30 minutes for now would be ok?

also going to use an electric cooler on the second battery overnight or use it on both batteries at the same time, and have the LVD disconnect the always on fuse box at 12.2v though if I can trick the LVD to cut the always on circuits at 12.4/12.5v it would be better as I had a problem starting my truck at 12.4v a few weeks back but it was because I was not using my truck as much. Now I am going to keep it on a trickle or solar panel it when I get a roof rack.

 

I'm not tracking with why you would want to charge at a lower voltage?? According to Northstar's site it recommends the charging system output of 14.1-14.8vdc. It is unlikely that you will ever reach a point at which your battery (primary or auxiliary) will be at 95%-100% SOC while your driving or running any sort of load off the aux battery. Your ALWAYS going to have an electrical load while the truck is running so it will likely never reach 95%+ SOC and the alternator is simply adjusting voltage/amperage output to overcome the draw. Even when the vehicle is off there is always going to be parasitic draw (though minimal) since there are multiple systems staying active like your clock, keyless entry, etc.

https://northstarbattery.com/faq

Will there be a list of vehicles that we do not want to sell product into because of their alternators?
No, the number of vehicles and systems that exist today would make it difficult to identify, manage and update a list on a regular basis. So instead we have set charging the charging parameters of between 14.1 volts and 14.8 volts as an acceptable charging range. So long as the battery charging remains within these tolerances the battery will perform to its engineered specifications. It is recommended that for every application the customer test the charging voltage to ensure it is within the acceptable limits.

 

Can the Charging voltage on a 3rd gen be adjusted on a stock ECU without a tune? I realize I will need the interface to connect to the truck to make any modifications, more specifically my question is: is the charging voltage setting "locked" by the stock tune and can only be modified once an aftermarket tune has been flashed? or could I buy the equipment or just pay someone with the software and cable to simply adjust the charging voltage?

 

I've been using this guy for a few years now without issue.

$3.99 at the autoparts store.

I still can't believe how some are paying what they are paying for a booster solution.. is it
just for clout?

More on my diode and Alt-S relocate here..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-2

 

I just completed the diode + fuse tap method and it's giving me up to 14.95 volts which is too high. Confirmed using a bluetooth device and known good multimeter. Without the diode I get just shy of 14.3 volts. So this method boosts my voltage by more than 0.6 volts which would eventually kill my shiny new X2Power battery.

Still debating if I want to spend the obscene amount of money for that HKB adjustable solution or not. But I am definitely NOT considering spending that amount for clout.

 

14.9 is perfectly acceptable at first start, especially on cold mornings.

What are the voltage(s) after a few minutes when stabilization occurs, that's the real question...

Here's my average at first start. And I've seen it as high as 15.1 at near 0° while at altitude. Was I concerned? Not a bit..

 

It stays elevated to 14.9 volts even after first start and several minutes of runtime. I've seen it steady at 14.95v and spike as high as 14.99v for a brief second but that could be error factor in my monitoring devices.

If it works for you great, I am not willing to accept the risk at this time. I pulled out the diode and running at stock charging voltages until I figure out other options.

 

Which diode did you use and is the charge voltage stuck at 14.95 or does it lower after a few minutes?

That is very odd and seems like something is going on since that is likely the max voltage our alternators can put out. That indicates either that signal wire is grounded some how, too much resistance in the diode or the regulator is bad in the alternator. You can rule out the regulator being bad since output voltage would be spiked (full-fielded) no matter the battery or diode/fuse in place. I believe the resistance should be around 1.95 megaohms if you have a DVOM handy.

 

Sorry got busy with work and other TW posts tonight. I have to go through my notes & photos, will see if I can post it sometime tomorrow. Using the Littelfuse diode like others have done before, will see if I can check the resistance too.

 

Might could be the diode fuse is backwards. One orientation it drops .6v but the other is infinite so it would max out the alt.

 

the battery light would be illuminated on the dash if the diode were to be oriented backwards

edited for spelling: