another bad blower resistor

You know, as annoying as it is that the resistor goes bad I kinda have a soft spot for it. When the resistor went bad in my truck my girlfriend hated it because while I was fine having it on full blast all the time, she would struggle to sit in the truck without a blanket because it was cold. That was what pushed me to get it replaced so I looked up a YouTube video and one trip to AutoZone and a trip to my grandpa's house for the right socket later I had it replaced. The feeling of satisfaction from having my AC fire back up after I had been manhandling the wires made me realize wrenching on cars was what I wanted to do. 1 year later I'm lined up to go to college for automotive maintenance in the fall and I now do most of the work on my truck.

 

That's not how I read this. IMO the white wire (1) in the flat plug needs to connect to the (1) port on the square connector, which would mean you connect the original white to the blue on the square connector pigtail. Etc. IOW do not go by the colors.

 

OK, that maybe makes sense. I was matching by the numbers in the photo. Although I am still confused. Because if port 1 on both the flat and square go to the same part of the circuit this other mapping doesn't make sense. But I guess it'll work out.

 

I actually hate working on my cars/truck. I USED to love it - used to build/race stuff for the 1/4 mile since high school, but now that I'm 60, I hate. I just do it because 1. I'm a cheap@ass; 2. If I do it, I control the parts and how well it's done; and 3. a LOT of times it gives me an excuse (to the wife) to buy more tools.

The most recent example of #3 was I bought the Waekon ABS tester (about $250) because her Prius was throwing the code for the RR speed sensor. I know you can do testing with a meter, and I even have a scope, but my logic to her was that the last time her Prius threw the code (on the left), we had to let a shop check it because it was Winter and I didn't have the time to check if it was the harness or sensor (in the bearing). It was the harness and cost us about $250+. So I told her "look, I can get this tool, and it will make it easier to diagnose it the next time, and it will cost about the same as taking it to the shop once, and I'll be able to check it myself easily any time it comes up."

Of course, now that I've gotten it, it will never come up to use it on any of the cars/truck again...

 

It goes to the same port IN THE CIRCUIT, but not the connector and resistor. I haven't compared it yet, but there is another older thread where someone figured out the remapping on their own. I just wanted to put the TSB in the forum for anyone needing help in the future.

I'll see if I can find the thread later.

 

So just wiggling this may get it to work? then just replace it? my 2nd and high settings don't work either and 100% burnt connection on mine as well.

 

Found it. It's post #150 by @Jeff Lange
What he figured out is the same as what is in the TSB.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/replacement-of-hvac-blower-motor-resistor.8310/page-8

 

Hi, just replaced the connector on mine and can confirm this is the right part number. It is the connector with wires. No need to fret over schematics/colors, just hold the connector at same orientation and cut/splice the connector wires one at a time.

 

For now all I did was scrape the contact out as best I could with a small screwdriver. Got it pretty nice and shiny enough. Plugged it back in and everything is working. I am going to order the real Toyota updated parts and do that at some point, but not time critical now as I think this will work fine for a good while.

 

cool if I can get it to work for a short time that works for me. At least the 2nd to highest still works. haha almost a big rough in summer time.

 

While we're on the subject...

Has anyone tried something like Wago lever nuts to splice the pigtail in? The "normal" ones are rated up to 12awg, but there's also a version rated to 10awg and 41 amps (221-612)

Just curious, as it would make it a LOT easier to swap pigtails if even the new pigtail has a problem with overheating.

 

The new pigtail + resistor is designed to fix the problem entirely, so I'd recommend doing it sooner or later. The replacement part comes with both the resistor and pigtail. I had the exact same issue on my truck, ended up soldering the new pigtail onto the existing wires and plugging it the new resistor back in. Works like a charm now.

Also, be sure you have a 5.5mm socket w/ wobbly adapter to unscrew the resistor from the housing. It's a PITA to access against the firewall.

 

The new pigtail & resistor are designed to remedy the problem entirely. If you compare the old resistor to the new one, you'll see they are quite a bit differently designed with the new resistor being much heavier duty and better able to dissipate heat than the old one.

 

I use those on the workbench to test stuff... might be a good idea to double check the wire mapping before making the pigtail up permanently. Not sure if I have any that will do 10 ga. however.

 

Yeah - I have the "regular" wagos for stuff around the house (12awg max). They make electrical connections so much easier. The other month I learned about the 10ga version. I was looking up GOOD (read not no-name brand) butt connectors, and thought "hmmmm..."

I can get REAL wago 221-612 lever nuts from Amazon for $13 for 10 (which is more than needed for this) delivered next day (a 50 pack is $25, but I can't conceive of a situation where I would use that many).

 

FYI - my order is backordered. I'll post when it ships.

 

Just wanted to update - it finally shipped today. I placed the order on April 19. I first inquired on the 22nd if there was any ETA (when I've had to order stuff from the local dealer, they readily see where the part is available so easily give at least an estimate of how long before they get it), noting that their website stated most backorders ship in 1-3 business days, and got a response (the next day) that the pigtail was backordered with no ETA.

On the 27th, I emailed again saying it's been just over a week now and if there's any ETA. I received no response, but got a notice today that it shipped with tracking. It was the first time I ordered from Elmhurst Toyota (online), but will PERSONALLY likely be the last as they have not been very responsive/communicative about the order. I have had much greater luck with Conicelli even when there's been a backorder.

Edit - as of today, 4/29/2022, they actually haven't shipped - they only generated a tracking number.